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Projects Tim's (aka anothercarguy) 1938 Ford Club Cabriolet Build Thread

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by anothercarguy, Dec 10, 2020.

  1. nrgwizard
    Joined: Aug 18, 2006
    Posts: 2,897

    nrgwizard
    Member
    from Minn. uSA

    Use a hardener(China Dryer ?) in that paint? If not, why? Seriously curious...

    & on the pin locating panel, maybe either a rotated/twisted dimple for the pin to poke thru, or just slots w/a tapered edge - since it's only to guide the lid down in a specific path. (sorta like the old hood pins) ???

    Still, nice details. :) .

    Marcus...
     
  2. I use the Japan Drier in the top coat. It helps to accelerate the dry time and hardens the paint. I didn't use it on the primer layer.

    I may re-visit the guide pins further. I need to think about it more. Thanks for the suggestion.
     
    Last edited: Jan 26, 2025 at 10:59 AM
  3. nrgwizard
    Joined: Aug 18, 2006
    Posts: 2,897

    nrgwizard
    Member
    from Minn. uSA

    OK. Thanks. Do you know, if the under-layers w/o the jd stay soft & not harden for quite awhile? When I used this stuff w/o the jd a few yrs ago, the paint eventually got hard, but it took a whole summer of heat to harden. Was always curious if the jd in a non-pigmented base(clear?) would hold out from chalking better/longer, have a deeper gloss, etc.
    Marcus...
     
  4. Dick Stevens
    Joined: Aug 7, 2012
    Posts: 3,913

    Dick Stevens
    Member

    It wasn't real clear but he said there was no hardener in the primer and the way I read this is that he used JD in all coats of paint, not just the final coat of paint.
     
  5. I don't have any comment on the JD in a non-pigmented clear coat holding out better/longer...I've never used a clear alkyd type paint. It does add a bit of deeper gloss to the pigmented paint. I've also never used this paint on the topside where it would be subject to a lot of UV...so again, I'm not sure if it would be more resistant to UV fade/breakdown. My experience has been strictly on the underside, where it works well, touches up easily and seems to be harder than woodpecker lips!

    As for the alkyd primer staying soft without the JD...The underside of the fenders seemed completely dry to the touch after 12 about hours...I installed the fenders after 24 hours and did not detect any remaining softness...though I didn't dig in with sandpaper or a scraper tool of any sort. I just wanted them sealed up while I body worked the topside.

    Sorry about the confusion. You are correct, I did not use the JD in the primer coat. I will use JD when I apply the finish color coat.
     
  6. nrgwizard
    Joined: Aug 18, 2006
    Posts: 2,897

    nrgwizard
    Member
    from Minn. uSA

    Thanks for the comments. I did figure you didn't use the jd anywhere but the final topcoat. Was just curious as to your experiences. The Industrial Rustoleum I used did harden, but look a very long time. Maybe the coats were too heavy, but it's not like I slobbed it on, nor floated the paint on. I had tried both a brush, & a foam applicator. Flashed ok, dry to touch fairly quickly, but I could leave fingerprints in it or fingernail dents for a long time. So any other future applications will contain dj. :) .
    Marcus...
     
    Kelly Burns and anothercarguy like this.

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