Technical 60 Cadillac Frozen Drums

1960 Cadillac sitting in barn for many years. All 4 wheels are frozen solid. Tried pulling the car with a tractor and the wheels still won't budge.

Can I use a puller for the front and rear drums? (Front have the hubs). I can't even try to back off the shoes because on the cadillac the adjuster window is on the front of the drum, so it can only be accessed when you turn the drum so the window is in the right place.

Also, I've been looking at drum pullers. I noticed these all state "hub" pullers. Can these also be used for the rear drums as well?

 

What if you clipped the "nails" holding the shoes to the backing plates, might get things moving around.

 

Another vote for cutting the heads off the nails.

 

Thanks guys, you are correct, 1960 was a one year only, so there isn't aftermarket support.

I'm not familiar with this brake setup. When you say cut the nails, what are you referring to?

Thanks

 

you should be able to locate these pins on the backside of the drums. Use a die grinder to cut the head, that should loosen the shoes some, hopefully enough to hold the drums off.

 

Ah, I see. Thanks, I had never thought of that before. I suspect if the shoes are rusted to the drums, some amount of heat and a hammer may be necessary, after cutting the pins, to break them loose?

 

Lots of good taps with a heavy lump hammer should help. A small, regular hammer won't have the heft, but no need to smash things to bits with the lump hammer either. Reasonable swings and let the weight of the hammer do the work.

Chris

 

The shoes are rusted to the drums. Add years of moisture and they are "welded" to the drums. Removing the heads off the nails should allow for the drums to come off some depending on how much slack the retraction springs and e-brake cables allow. Should be enough to get some penetrating oil sprayed on the shoes. Heating and hammering may crack a drum. Those drums are as rare as 58 Edsel drums. Unobtanium.

 

Thanks again guys. From my memory, it's been a long time, but I'm almost positive there is no way to access the shoe adjuster star from the back. The only hole is in the drum, and the drum has to be rotated to allow the access to to line up with the adjuster. If the drum is frozen, then I can't back them off, but this is confusing because I just looked in the repair manual and it seems to state there is an adjuster in the back.

 

I've usually had good luck with just a BFH. No need to break things, just keep hitting around different spots on the edge of the drum, and the backing plate where the shoe rests. Once some rust and dirt starts falling out you're winning, just keep going. I've seen them full of ants nest too.

 

Spray a butt load of blaster thru those holes wherever they are.

 

Last one I did I cut a hole w/ a holesaw in the backing pate at the bottom where the adjuster is. Then cut the adjuster in half with the sawzall thru the hole. This takes the pressure off the shoes. Poke a bar or punch in there and get things loosened up. After you get it apart, weld the "plug" back into the hole you made. Saving the drums was more important to me.....

 

. Best idea yet IMO.
I recall drilling a half inch hole in an early squarebody Chevy backing plate to get to the adjuster.... I just don't recall why. Too long ago

 

Unbolting the wheel cylinder and knocking the heads off the retainer pins should let it all come loose with the drum and why didn't I figure that out 50 years ago when I was doing several brake jobs every week if if not every day.
The hole saw trick is golden too.
Now Vetteman61, It didn't happen unless you show us the photos and give us a story.

 

Jack car up and use axle stands for support
Remove wheels
Pour boiling water on drum, repeat if necessary
Heat should expand drum
Tap drum with hammer if needed
Put wheel on without wheelnuts and try back and forward motion like using a steering wheel

 

I agree with cutting the nails, lubing everything, lots of big hammer lightly tapping to get things moving. I'd also look at what is available before you dig in. If the drums are unobtainium, are the other parts too? The hole in the backing plate is a good idea, but if this is really rusted solid, it may not help. If this was a car with new 50 dollar drums a trip to the parts store away, I'd say cut. Lube, heat and time are your weapons, knowledge of what is expendable will guide you.
I like @mrquickwhip 's idea of hot water. If you drill an adjuster hole, it might help to flush out the area too. Lube is going to mess up the cups and seals if it gets on them, but water shouldn't do anything but rinse, provided you don't leave it in there and let it rust up more.