Technical Broken Exhaust Flange Studs

BECAUSE I WILL PULL OUT 20 while your try'n to get the one... and I will never have to deal with the broke drill bit or ez out stuck in the stud..

 

you can weld the washer... or blow it out with a torch...

 

I have done these, but I prefer the drill, over the torch to “ blow out” the bolt. I have done the “ weld the nut” thing many, many times in my career!




Bones

 

Never try the “ easy out” if the stud twisted off! I have never been successful at that and quit using them many years ago in this case! I still have several sets of easy outs, but they rarely get used!




Bones

 

I really doubt that, but whatever you want to believe.

 

Some machine shops have machines that use an electrode that will disintegrate a broken stud . They are not real common any more, but they will remove the stud cleanly. If (as in your case) the stud was rusted in place before you broke it, you will likely need to retap the thread once you get the stud out. Many people try using an easy out. I have seldom ever had any luck using them with anything that's seized in place. Usually a lot of frustration is the only result. Then there is the method where you drill thru the stud. Normally its difficult to get the drill/hole centered and you make take some of the thread out while trying. You can however remove sufficient material that you may be able to weaken the broken stud. Then there is welding a nut to the broken stud and trying to remove it. That may work if there is still a little stud above the flat surface. The heat from the weld MAY help break the rusts bond on the stud.

If you take a cutting torch/welding torch and heat the flange around each stud until it turns bright red......do it a couple of times. That will pretty well always destroy the bond of rust between the stud and the manifold flange.

THEN..........after you have heated it with a real welding torch and gotten it red several times...........THEN try whatever method above appeals to you.

Personally I like welding a nut to the stud if there is enough stud in place to do it. If you don't use a real ox/acy torch for heat, most of the time it isn't hot enough.

Lastly, you can just drill it oversize and put a larger stud in it.

 

Yes, they are usually a waste of time from my experience. I like the "smoke wrench" option most of the time.

 

When i do have to drill a flush-broken bolt out, i always use reverse drill bits.... Progressively increasing the bit size. Sometimes you get lucky and twist what's left of it out as the walls get thinner and hotter.

 

Lots of mostly good info.
When it's broke flush or just a smidge down grab a flat washer and weld it hot to the bolt then weld a nut on top. I just hit opposite sides of the nut and grab it with vise grip

 

I find the heat and cool cycle needs to be done 5 time.