Sorry I ben off here for a "LONG" time. Finally got an updated computer and a project. Wondering if I'm in the right area, looking for paint and body input, more so body. Have a 68 F100 that needs some general 50+ year old attention. Love to pick the mind of those in the know on how they would approach these repairs. If the images load the cab has a roof bruise that is not dolly friends and the rear corner must have caught a stump. Already drilled out the spot welds on that area with a I dunno wtf idea in mind.
The dent comes out the exact opposite of how it went in. Meaning, the crease in the center is the last thing I'd touch. Work form the outside in. Heat, just enough to loosen the electrons and make it malleable, dolly off hammer around the crater rim. Push the metal back into the cavity. A few studs welded in the perimeter will help pull the lows. When I am the luckiest at dent extraction, I never touch the extreme center of the dent. The metal could have stretched (most likely) so some shrinking may be in order. Personally, this is one of my favorite type dents. Easy access to the rear, non structural, nice metal, thick Henry Ford steel...have fun with it. It is hard to F up.
Right now is probably the best time to get tips from metal guys, in that you can select from dozens of people that have video tutorials on stuff like this from the comfort of your own home. It will come down to actually doing the work, but seeing how a bunch of pros do it with stop, rewind and repeat it is just shy of having them lean over your shoulder and talk you through it. I like this guy's sense of humor and skills with basic tools, but you should be able to find one who works for your own learning curve. https://www.youtube.com/@CarterAutoRestyling/videos He straightened the roof before chopping a year ago, which should get you started.
Buy a copy of this. https://www.amazon.com/Martin-BFB-Bumping-Manual-Instruction/dp/B001GUZP4O It will reinforce what Billy said in great detail
I had a dent in the cab of a similar-era Chevy truck almost identical to that one, we welded a plate in the center of the dent with a hole in the plate, hooked a come-along to the plate and cranked it up against a beam in my buddy's garage. Not enough to pull it all the way out, but to get a good amount of grunt pulling up. Then you can start hammering around the dent and kind of "relax" it out, tightening the come along a bit as the metal starts to move to take up whatever slack it gave. A bit of heat probably would have helped too, we got a bit brutal with it in the end and should have had a little more patience because it was working. I ended up getting it "close enough" and filled the rest but with patience and persistence I think you could get that very, very close.
Before I'd give advice, I would want to see the other side. I see a horizontal rust line above the panel seam. That warns me there's an inside panel that probably has something to do with the window opening. You also said 68 F-100. that tells me there should be a full metal inner headliner panel. If so that brings a totally different approach to the job.
your spot on, the inner panel is there making for a real treat to get a dolly in there. I really appreciate all the good advice that has been added to this thread and the links to get a starting point from. Many thanks to all you guys. I'll get some progress picts added in a few weeks. going to take it slow and research it some. Cheers Gents!
Looks to be a candidate for some strategically placed pressure as opposed to hammering it, to start. Temporarily remove any obstructing inner structure to allow full access. Using a 2X4 and carefully applied pressure from a hydraulic jack and appropriately shaped backer lumber as well as needed heat, you will be able to fix that. To me it looks like an interesting challenge. Good luck!
a look at the inside as requested. Maybe a third of the area is accessible ? Really not lookin to "make access" the inside is rather nice.
I would think an Electric Stud Welding gun and slide hammer. As mentioned slowly bumping the metal from the outside of the dent working along lines like you would see on a topographical map and working toward the center. A little at a time as to not over stretch the metal.
I'd shape a wooden block, like a chunk of 2/4 to fit the intended shape. As thick as possible and fit into the inner panel. Use that to push with a jack, ram or even another 2x4 cut to the right length. Hold slight pressure while tapping on the outside, not inside or heavy blows, taps only along the outer edge of the dent. when the metal relaxes, move your block deeper and repeat. May have to make another push block as the dent changes shape. Rule of the thumb for dents like that: last in, first out. IOW move the shallow part first. Once it's roughed out a heavy 'comma' dolly would be perfect to detail it.
Personally, I would never use Heat on that getting started, probably ever. That's asking for trouble, that's right. Do it cold coming out the gate starting. NO Stud gun either, that will just give you a High Spot where every stud is mounted and probably a small hole when the stud tears off. I understand not wanting to remove any inner panel but to me it just makes sense. Given that you need a push/pry bar and a solid base to pry against. I take it you (and several others here) have never done that. This is where I grab an old Leaf of a spring and my Torch. You'll have to get a little creative for a base to pry against but there's room. You're really making a large job out of something pretty easy with a spotweld cutter and 3 very small seams so you're really going to Test your talents and, in the end, probably remove the inner panel to a jammed in wood block or to repair the inner to salvage it from using as a press base.
You could just mix up a half gallon of body putty and smear it in there. Sanded down to the proper dimensions and no one will ever know. After a few freeze thaw seasons after it pops off repeat and drive it in the meantime. After a few times of replacing the Bondo and repainting the roof or entire truck do it right and work the dent out.
I don't understand? Do you think I'm making a joke? I'm talking about hand bending a Spoon to simply push out the damage using a bar placed as needed and supported. This method isn't a Joke, takes some skill and determination but from where I sit is the easiest (to me) solution for not wanting to remove the inner panel and actually be able to work directly on the damage. That's a real simple damage spot to get Total metal finished if you're a real Body Man. For 50 Years when it comes to metal work, I've done metal finish work. There has never been a can of Body Filler in my Shop. Maybe I'm too Old to understand your above post but I don't come here and mislead or make jokes.
great idea about the leverage aspect on something that strong AND thin!--just have your friend sit in the seat w/ a hard hat on and you can move him and the fulcrum point around as needed--pick your friend who is a real hardhead-we all have em!
That could work but I have problems with helpers that don't fully understand my instructions, so I just use my Stupid Stick known as a Port-a-Power. They always do Exactly what you want,,, unless they jump out of place.
Used leaf spring prying tools for years. Had several with different angles cut into the tapered edge. Great for going around inner wheel house, inner panels etc. And they can be made out of thin, thick, wide, narrow, short or long pieces of spring. Your only limited by your imagination. .....
When heating a spring to get the shape you need don't overheat it past the point of bending as necessary, then once it's cooled back to Black Hot draw it through a bucket of drained Motor Oil. This will keep the spring factor working for you instead of just bending more where you heated it when you start working it.
The deaf spring idea is a go. I work for a trailer hitch shop and we have plenty to choose from =in the scrap pile. I liked the spot weld idea so rounded up some tidbits and made something I hope will work ok. We'll see. Some .875 solid round bar dubbed with a 5/8 nut and a handful of 5/8 bolts capped with various nuts 1/4 - 1/2inch. My plan is to just weld appropriate sized bolts on in a given area and screw the nut to it and see what gives.
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