I was surprised The local Neighborhood Clubhouse car show was pretty cool actually! All the Krispy Kreme doughnuts I could eat! live band! And it was free! And I met some older gentleman that have some Hoards of old Parts out on farmland. The one guy I was talking to was 88 years old! Still has tons of tractors and old car parts. Think he would be a good guy to be friends with, maybe help him out with some trade work On his farm or something for Parts. Pick his brain for all the information he has on all this old stuff that nobody cares about anymore. I’m the only guy that had a fixed up, Flathead!!!.
Just got lucky with a better quality aftermarket Kit, never did find out what country of origin it was made in, but I compared it to the old one in some of my previous posts. Now the other issues are still there. Popping out of second, and rubbing in neutral on something once in awhile. I’m just gonna take it apart this winter again!!!! And change the whole synchro assembly, AGAIN and maybe a few gears to see what the hell is going on. It’s a mystery at this point?? My redneck pulley braces, working fine though!!! Ha!!!
Hey Yall! Been a bit! Been doing other things. 33’ Has been running good, just been too damn hot here in Sac-Town to drive much! But here and there, I take her to work.
Hi All! How is everyone? been a bit. Update: Tranny is working awesome now. God of Hot rods fixed it! Shifts beautiful now, stays in gear now, Pressure plate smooth, clutch too I guess the new gears, finally meshed with the old ones? Dunno, but stoked! The Flame thrower Coil, crapped out after a year. Thought maybe the Unilite module was bad but, got lucky! The coils suck these days! Gonna keep a spare behind the back seat. PS. Rudy Roadrash says Hi!
I had the top part on, but it hid my cool Cal-Custom style Scoop, and the Flatty. I haven’t painted the Sides yet. here, put my stainless Support rods on. It’s more hood-off-normal-mode now!
Took the Mrs. For a ride after Replacing my POS unilite Ignition module And coil! Is anything worth a damn these days!
Looking good. Frustrating Isn't it! "It doesn't matter, it's got warranty" is the attitude that brings it on....
Well I decided the loud pipes were a bit strong And annoying after awhile. Put these cute little shorty glass packs, and they work surprisingly well! Also went with 437 autolite plugs to burn some of that carbon!
Are you running the inline filter on the Unilite? Very important https://www.summitracing.com/search...ch&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=unilite filter
HMMM interesting I think I would probably get the Mallory version, looks more solid. But I have a 1.5 ohm built-in resistor in my epoxy filled flame thrower coil, instead of the inline Ballast resistor
Hey Guys! Been awhile! I have been busy with life stuff. And trying to sort out the Darn Electronic issues with the Doll! Bought another module for the Unilite and it Fried! Had to get towed this time! I thought the carburetor was the issue at first because it felt like it was starving for fuel. So I tore it apart could not find anything wrong with it. Except someone put size 62 jets in the 390 Holley! (Supposed to be 51 jets) Bought a new kit and also put 54 jets in. Figured, with the block being.060 over, headers, Holley 4-barrel and hotter Ignition. Plus it might have a mild cam, and it has adjustable lifters. 54 would be a good happy place. I also bought a new pertronix distributor And it was to huge, and couldn’t get it to work! Sooo…. I am losing my mind! I need some advice. I am Getting so Tired of the Chinese sensitive electiontronic parts! I found a guy who rebuilds stock distributors, with NOS parts, and Points. Sooooo. Heres what I am thinking They say 3.0 ohms is perfect balance with points I have a flamethrower 1.5 ohm Coil And read, that a 1.5 ohm ballast resistor is right What do you all think? Old School Simple? Points Distributor?
Frustrating...yes but you'll get it sorted out. You have some fellas here that'll help nip it in the bud. I have pertronix in my chev points distributor and had years of trouble free performance but I know there's been plenty of not such luck with same...so whatever you settle for I'll be following because your heart is in this bigtime and your patience has been very admirable through the rough edges.
I was looking up how to modify those Chevy distributors that looks like a big old pain in the ass too. What’s wrong with the stock distributor?
On my merc motor I used the stock distributor with the vacuum advance wired so it doesn't move. I've got it set at 20° all the time and it works great.
Load-O-Matic distributor is part of a system with the original carburetor and doesn't play nice with different or multiple carbs. Charlie Schwendler can fix you up with a modified Chev distributor set-up and ready to go. Funny how the "no maintenance" part of electronic ignition stuff actually means there is "no maintenance" you can do on side of the road when it lets you down.
I tied it with some bailing wire locked, so it doesn't advance or retard. It's not hooked up to vacuum at all anymore. So the timing is set at 20° base and all in. No hard starting and no pinging.
Cool I thought it was something similar to that. It looks like your motor is probably a little more radical, but I guess I would just play with the timing until it’s not pinging but now these guys are saying I should buy a Chevy modified distributor from Charlie but I don’t know how much money we’re talking.
If you don't like the idea of a Chevy window distributor on your Ford; you could always pick up a cheap old used Chevy Mallory distributor and have that modified for your flathead. The reliability of points with a hotrod look.
I emailed Charlie last year for a distributor. He answered all my questions and the price was in the ballpark around 350.00 I think. He responded quickly. Good luck. Easyrodder1
I run an old original Mallory dual point flathead distributor on my 286 stroker flatty. Has worked fine for many years. I also have a modified chev dist and a new Mallory flathead dist to try out in my next flathead. All of them points and running 6 volt. Dave