Hot Rods My new 57 Chevy 210bu

I have a 383 small block with a one-piece rear main seal on order. I will be mating it up to a stock bellhousing configuration. I need to order a flywheel and clutch and not sure what fits. I know I need a flywheel for a one-piece rear main seal but 168 or 153 tooth. And do I need a 10 1/2-inch clutch?
It has been to many years since I have worked on a tri 5 and with the cost of these parts, I need to order the right stuff.
Dan

 

What's a 210bu?

 

JUST 210 TYPING MISTAKE,

 

168 tooth flywheel and 11" clutch fits the factory bellhousing.

 

Are you going to post a pic of it?

 

Kind of like a Henway but different.

 

I'm the wrong guy to ask about flywheel tooth counts but I would also like to see the car.

 

Verify internal or external balance requirements before ordering any flywheel. Maybe you already knew that…

 

168 tooth , one piece rear seal engines use an external balance flywheel . Aftermarket flywheels are usually drilled for both 10 1/2 or 11 inch pressure plates

 

It had been restored just before I bought it and is totally rust free. I pulled the stock 283 and powerglide and will be installing a Blueprint 383 roller and M21 muncie 4 speed.
The last 57 I had was about 1978, so I'm having fun doing it up right this time
Dan

 

also, has dropped spindles and front springs and 1-inch lowering blocks in rear. I added steel 15x7 front wheels and 15x8s in the rear and TA radials. And the beat goes on.

 

Looks like a nice car!

 

Just make sure you get ALL of the specific to '57 clutch linkage. '55&6 are close but off just enough to cause problems.

 

Now, that's my style of 57 Chebby. And I might even get to see it one of these days when we cross paths.

 

My that is pretty

 

Nice.

 

I need some help with my clutch install. This car was a 283 powerglide, I'm changing to 4 speed.
I have the new 383 engine installed with stock bellhousing. I bought all the 57-clutch linkage from Classic and a new 10 1/2 in Ram diaphragm clutch. I can't get the clutch to disengage. With the pedal all the way to the floor, the pressure plate barely moves. I don't see any flexing in the linkage while working it.
Looking for some ideas.

 

short vs long t o brg?

 

Maybe go with a hydraulic clutch. Eliminates a lot of factors that that just don’t work right plus the replacement linkage stuff is chinesium whitch is absolute crap.

 

I hear Ya but want to keep it stock. Been working for a long time that way. Can't figure out why this isn't working.

 

The pictures explain the “bu”=Bea Utiful!

 

You may have the wrong throw out bearing. There are 3 to choose from.

 

The fork pivot inside the bellhousing ha as an adjustment. The rod to the fork should be adjustable too.

See what you can find out about the TO bearing you got. Did it come with the clutch?

I run a Zoom diagram in my car, spec'd out for a C30 Chevy truck. IIRC it came with the medium length bearing.

 

Did you get the bell crank under the dash in the right spot?

 

325w, the parts under the dash only go one way and the Z bar (bellcrank) and push rods are installed per the service manual. I installed the short T/O bearing that came with the clutch. If I installed a longer bearing, I would just have to adjust the linkage to compensate. I don't see how I would gain any more throw.
I'm beginning to think I need a preasure plate with the raised fingers as apposed the flat ones on my current P plate.

 

If you have flat fingers, you need the tall throw out bearing.

 

OK 427 I'll try it, thanks

 

Before linkage is hooked up The fork has to be angled slightly forward when the throwout bearing is in contact with the pressure plate fingers, this is a must. Adjust the fork ball stud to obtain this, along with correct length throwout bearing. After you get that correct you will need to adjust the z bar to fork rod to the right length, I have about 2 inches of freeplay in the pedal and it disengages just right.

You will love that bp 383, I locked out timing at 30*, 2.64 1st gear and 4.10's.

 

OK, I took the advice and installed a long T/O bearing and now I have a clutch that disengages. Thanks everyone for your input.
Now I focus on the exhaust.