If the 12 circuit is like one I used once, I would pass. The fuse box was less than perfect plus other issues. The 22 circuit 20 fuse is the one I used. I'm not crazy about the factory looking fuse box but it worked out well.
I cleaned up the system by cutting the tie wraps from the "knot" of wires (yellow circle), let all the unattached wire fall free, removed the back on the panel (arrow), and routed the wires out both sides of the panel depending on where they went to on the car. The wires that were freed from the "knot" were better routed as needed during the wire job. As an example: the wires from the headlight switch didn't need to go back to and pass by the fuse panel and instead were routed to the headlights and tail lights. That cross back to panel wiring is typical of aftermarket harnesses and while it makes it easier for many to wire a car; it does make for a clutter of wires.
I'm back. Bought the Speedway 12 circuit kit and while most of it was OK I thought the fuse panel was a bit cheesy and I didn't like the way the 2 turn signal flashers just hung out in mid air. I took it back and brought home the Painless 18 circuit kit. Fuse panel is good as was some of the wiring. The instructions are very confusing as they describe so many different applications. I think I'll go back to buying parts and assembling my own harness. I still have the knowledge to start from scratch. Will cost more money but I'll know where I'm at. This is a roadster, Starter, alternator, electric choke,no accessories except the electric fan, horn, heater, 5 gauges, GM turn signal harness, & lights. How complicated can it be? I'm open to suggestions. (Anyone) Am I losing my mind?
Build your own. Del city for fuse holders, Rhode Island wire for the wiring (You can go with glass fuses and cloth covered wire for a old look). I've personally used Rebel, Keep it Clean and have seen Painless, I like Rebel kits. Very basic fuse holders, good quality wires and fully customizable. Hook up what you need and take out the rest. The '28 I'm building my own, glass fuse holder (water proof boat product), cloth covered wire, asphalt covering and plain ends.
F Head: That looks like mine did when I made my own. I'm finding obtaining the top quality wiring products for a build your own harness is dam expensive. Good or bad I'm currently exploring Ron Francis. I used a couple of his custom kits 25 years ago and was happy with the results. His are a little pricey. I'm a ways from the wiring phase. Rich B: I wired a roadster once using all sizes of black wire with heat shrink on the ends. Looked great, but you had to have your head on straight and label everything. Never again.
Gary, for kits I personally use AAW almost exclusively, mainly the Hiway series. For wiring supplies, try Waytek also, they seem to be less expensive than Del City.
I used a Rebel kit on my survivor/beater 32 sedan with the fuse panel under the back seat. When I swapped the sedan body for a roadster, I kept all the wiring since the engine, gauges, dash, lights stayed the same. Just located the panel to the trunk. I liked everything about their kit. On my previous roadster, I used Enos, which unfortunately is no more, so I had a good comparison.
This was about close to 10 ish years ago, Two of The S -W kit , I believe like 20 circuit ? It was around 160 , wires where well marked every few inches , I am sure one turn single relay place in fuse box, Simple , & one with multiple electric accessories,No issues , Have not looked @ Ron's in a while , I feel was over priced & bulky, I did a painless in a race car , $$ & I feel average quality. So now last few I have done I just make my own ,
I've just had to wait 4 months for a wiring kit for my 32 3w to be supplied by them due to shortage of some components they've had on back order from their supplier.
The Jalopy Journal
