Projects Building My First Roadster in San Francisco

Fully agree, especially when it's got a low seat bottom, forcing knees up! I'm considering ways to incorporate a tonneau to help trap any warmth and keep the gusts from swirling in the footwell.
Grew up in the San Francisco bay area and know how useful they are there.
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/tonneau-covers-for-roadsters.1220758/
Plus gaining the aesthetic of looking like a Roth monster poking out!

 

My Zipper is in the thread RodStRace posted above. Tonneau covers work! Used them on the Zipper, MG Midget and an MGB. Heat seaters are great…used them in Jeeps with no doors.

 

Good thing about old Chevys they are made of firewood.

 

Very nice. That boot fits well

 

Just get another coil. Rods and race cars sometimes had a spare in place and ready to go. It can be your anti-theft device. Just move the coil wire over to the unconnected coil.
I wouldn't put a fuel filter right there, but maybe something else can be used as an alternative.

 

Bottle of hot sauce lol

 

It's San Francisco. Maybe a handy squirt bottle of anti-fog?
Just need to find a vintage container.

 

I believe the master cylinder boot needs to go on the push rod first with the first rubber convolute after the small opening over the washer on the rod. I think one has to stuff the rod in from the big end and work the nut end out the small hole end leaving the disc inside. I say this as mine was like yours is now and when the pedal was pressed in the boot eventually collapsed and stayed stuck down with nothing mechanical to pull it back out. This left the oversized for the rod hole boot end open to scoop up water thrown back from the front wheels which eventually rusted the bore. I have not rectified this yet on mine and could be incorrect but plan to do this on reassembly.

 

Joey, this is the perfect time
For a Citric acid soak for about 12 hours. It’ll eat the rust and not touch the chrome. Do a neutralizing rinse and a little protective oil and that thing will look just right!

 

Since Tim brought it up, not everyone knows the Citric routine. We use it all the time and it is the best. We buy this from Amazon:
Viva Doria 100% Pure Citric Acid, Food Grade, Fine Grain, 5 lb (2.27 kg)

I ran across this some years back and the process is right on.

Cleaning with Citric Acid
I want to share the process as I know it for fast, cheap and easy rust removal using powdered citric acid. I've seen folks using molasses, vinegar, electrolysis and expensive store bought products to remove rust. I leaned about citric acid from my brother a few years ago and have never looked back. Here is the process I’ve used with great success, hope this can help my fellow Hambers. step 1 I bought this 5lb bag of powdered citric acid online for about 16$ shipped. For these parts I'll use about 3 cups dissolved in warm water then added to my 5-gallon bucket. A big Rubbermaid tote works well for this also. I’m not to scientific with the measurements, this stuff is cheap enough.
Here are the parts and some small hand tools I'll be de rusting. Normally I'd give these a quick pressure wash first but my washer wouldn't cooperate so I did these as is.

Once your acid is mixed dump it in the bucket, where your parts are already covered in water.

I bought a length of 3" ABS and capped one end. Put the solution in the pipe. It is a great way to clean long thin parts that don't want to fit in your soaking tub.

Warren


Now it's as easy as letting them soak, 24 hours is usually plenty, sometimes I leave the worst parts in longer. The Citric acid is mild enough it won't damage anything but the rust.
Now after your soak pull out your parts and they don’t look impressive just yet.

If you have a pressure washer use it here. If not, a wire or nylon bristle brush will clean off all of the loosened rust. Give it a quick wash and your parts should look like this. This is after a grand total of maybe 5 minutes with a wire brush. The rust will literally just scrub right off. Its that easy! When I’m finished with the acid bath, I neutralize it with a cup of baking soda then dump it out in my side yard. It doesn’t even hurt the grass. The acid is so mild it doesn’t burn your hands or put off any odor. I did all of this batch in my garage with no problems at all. Also, I've painted parts that have held up very well for several years after this process. Hope this helps you guys. If anyone else wants to add to this thread feel free to do so.

 

I've got a chrome wrap on this coil, too. If it doesn't clean up, you could paint them or cut out new ones from sheet, if you want the look.

 

I’ll add I also use the dried flakes plus water. I don’t think I generally use that strong of mix and I don’t think I’ve ever had to use a burst of any sort on them. But I also haven't soaked anything that looked like it was off the titanic. Typically I can just use my hand and sluff the crap off it and dunk it again.

It also seems to work for a very long time, I’ve used the same container of acid for months with no real leading results. I use a dawn dish soap and water bath to neutralize it and heat/ towel dry with some wind or a fan.

I’ve also painted the parts with zero ill effects years later. I believe on my model A build I have photos of a chromed column switch from the steering support I soaked. I’ll see if I can find it

 

They beat me to the citric acid bath recommendation. You may be surprised how much chrome is still there. It also doesn't hurt most paint and some stickers & decals.

 

The patina on the Carrhart bib overalls, blends perfectly with the vintage resoled boots!
Looking good young road warrior! And so is 2.0 !

 

What a great photo love it!

 

Que old man voice “this generations always laying down on the job!”

Pretty bitchin man keep on truckin summers almost here and you’ve almost got a roadster!

 

HA HA that looks Great!

 

Should be UNDER the car doing something!

 

Hey! That guy looks like he’s after your catalytic converter!

Oh……never mind.

 

Fuel system
Exhaust
Wiring
Final once over, torquing everything still accessible, topping up fluids and installing cotter pins.
Sand and prime body before it's set on the finished frame!

Looking great, Joey, I really like the QC sticking out the rear!

EDIT: Thanks to Yama and Blue for pitching in and getting it further!

 

I love that Norton!