Small parts painted. Glasurit 2k primer, black Glasurit 2k acryl, semi gloss Acryl is more matt finish after few days. Aulis
Aulis, you painted outdoors with a temporary shelter?! What temperature was it and how did it dry? I thought most paints like to be sprayed around 70* F.....
16-17Dec Celcius when paint. One hour after spayed little more warm Yes it dry. Of course You can use different thinner, hardener, fast, slow..... Yes, I can promise I have paint few cars earlier (+500pc) and know little about paints. Maybe too little
Frame painted. Epoxy primer + green glasurit 2k sealer + dupont Harley Davidson 1928-32 olive green. Evening I helped Oskar and his Friend to built Honad ready. They need rather much assistance, hope they learn somehing every day Also made some lathe jobs. I cut 4mm from Lincoln brake drums inner sleeve (brake surface). Also made 2pc sleeve between inner bearing and spindle bottom. Seal is 1 3/4" x 2". Original 1932 ford spindle OD. is 1 3/16". So I made sleeves 1 3/16" x 1 3/4" x 7/11". I also tranfer inner bearing 2mm from bottom to more near seal. Sleeve + bearing transfer are need to do when use Early Lincoln bendix brakes with original 1932 ford spindle. Aulis [/ATTACH]
Front brakes are ready. - 2mm shim between inner bearing outer cone and hub. - 12mm sleeve between inner bearing and spindle - cut 4mm from backing plate edge before painting - lathe 4mm from drum inner sufrace - New bearings and seals. - painted drums. VHT silica high heat ceramic spray "cast iron". Now turns good, approx 2,5mm (0,1") cap between drum and backing plate. Also started to sand epoxy primer. One door ready for primer. I ordered from Italy some tensioners to our industrial customer. To same shipment for me 60mm x 60mm belt tensioner roll with bearings + alum. arm. Im gonna use those with my 1936 M-36 McCulloch supercharger. Roll 15euro, bracket 15euro. Not bad at all. AULIS
Warm winter. Two last winter has been long and cold. Now only little snow, Nights little under zero dec (celcius) and days are upside of zero. Sun is shine and days are going longer and longer. Better if have hard winter. Then we don´t have so many "hang a round" dudes here... but weather is what it is. A
Yes, Sun is shine and days are "chicken step" longer day after day... Today I "repainted" frame. I was not happy about my first painting. Now very good. OK, there is some small notches (I dont know what word You use in english) and I was not fix those off with putty. I like that frame need to show that its old and original. Only thing was my paintjob was not good. Sanded little down with 320 paper and repainted it. One wet round Glasurit green (little lighter than Dupont) and one wet round dupont Harley Davidson Olive green. Dupont is not cover very good even if paint two or three wet .... thats why I have nearly same color normal 2K acryl basic. Tomorrow I paint Engine+tranny+rear axle Aulis
Friend bought from yard sale photo-album, 5euro. Nice 1932 Cabriolet Ford finnish lic.plates. Saturday morning I tape engine, tranny,.. 2K primer + 2K acryl wet on wet ... a
Those little Honda's are great bikes. Our middle son had one and I found it perfect for rounding up the cattle. The Yamaha MX100 with no exhaust baffle spooked the cattle and they'd go every direction LOL Oskar's little Monkey looks great and an excellent project for him.
Monday is done. One pressureplate bolt cut. I was lucky, I get broken bolt out without removing flywheel. As we know, pre 1948 flathead flywheel can be removed after removing oilpan..... I use Aluminum racing flywheels all my flatheads. Little losing low RPM torque, but I get it back with bit CID enginesize. I like more engines, which is taken fast RPM up and RPM is come down faster too. This Schiefer flywheel is taken 10" clutch. New pressureplate and clutch plate. Normal orig. heavy flywheel and very heavy shortblock moving parts is like nightmare. Rear axle is installed too. Installed 10mm x 11mm felt to driveaxle cup, oiled it and greased all moving parts. Tomorrow rear brakes, shocks, front axle... I want to get frame like rolling. Helps my working in small garage if frame is on tires. Yesterday I lathe crankpulley smaller. As small as possible. Also removed rather much alumium bottom of Harman Collings magneto. Now all fit there and can move magneto enought both way Left and Right. Aulis
AULIZ what are the details on the alloy sump and where did it come from? I couldn't make out the cast name on the side. Have never seem one like it.
I like Harman & Collins magnetos. Big magnetwheel (5" OD), big coil, very strong spark... only minus is to fit it on its place.... Today installed pedals + mechanism, emerg.brake stuff. Rear: Shocks+dogbones, backing plates + Drums, radius rods Front: wishbone, front axle, spring, shackles, shocks+dogbones, backing plates + drums. Aulis
Today Rod is sitting on floor. Headers, steering box, tires, tie rod... It took more time to fix garage. It looked more like battle field..... I dont have drag link, maybe I need to make it myself. I like more those orig.style tie rod and drag link. Original 1932 draglink is fixed, I want that there is possible to adjust it. Tomorrow I continue sand epoxy primer. Need to get rest of parts + body sanded and spray primer on. Aulis
About fan belt: I don´t have had last hot rods any mechanical or electric fan. thin piston rings, enough advance in ignition, old style water pumps (when old style pumps, not need to limit water flow), good radiator (brass). A
Sorry, I didnt understood. Im from countryside (very deep countryside)... but as I wrote, about flathead cooling problems. New waterpumps are too efficient. Need to use alum. washers in upper hoses. 14-15mm holes. Old 2row pumps are not too efficient. I keep 24hour block in hydrochloric acid. 1mm piston rings is best. Good oil, 100% condition radiator (walker was best. Now a days not know who is make best radiators after they closed doors). Original radiators are OK, but new walkers has more thin copper between radiator tubes. More surface area. No fun mechanical or electric. Enough advance (ignition). Flathead exhaust runners are long and go thru water pockets... Originally they didnt used so much advance. Gasoline was junk, very low octaine.... I have around 25dec, even more. Never any problems, fire/heat is not so much in exhaust runners if have more advance... and of course I use fixed advance. If have enough compressio ratio, big bore, long stroke,.... You get more torque. OK, I loose little torque when I remove that super heavy flywheel. I like more alum. racing style flywheels. Engine is more "lively". 25-30Amp generator is enough when You have magneto ignition, no extra electric equipments.... Fireplace is ready, I can close the fireplace. Ou shit, not very interested in continue sanding.... Today I start to sand mainbody. 2days.... sometimes I wish I had woman in house doing all those jobs...
Always great to witness the resurrection of another '32 Ford. Your version is very unique and traditional at the same time. Great build and interesting choice of colors. Looking forward to the final results.
Thank You Sir (s). I like that DuPont Harley Davidson Olive green. Im little hesitant how Pearl Gold fits with main colour....I have used so many times natural white like second colour, now desided use something different... Maybe not 100% match, but as they said long times ago "dare to be different but keep it simple". Aulis Here few pic of my ex roadster (sold to Italy 2014). I built car 2011-2012 one long winter. Project bought from middle Norway. Here in HamB one thread that rod too.
Hey Auliz I notice your former roadster did use a dropped front axle which looks great and I like the grey painted rear end as well! Two questions.... what was that dash from and what were you doing in the last pic?
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