Hot Rods A one of a kind stock 1929 Ford 3 door delivery???

Also the pictures are of poor quality and very hard to decipher it really is just the name :
parisian ute
2 doors, 4 windows.
Inner dimensions from the seat to the tailgate : 1.325 m, height : 1.200 m, with : 1.300 m.
tailgate width :1 m

for the 4 doors 6 windows:
Inner dimensions from the front seat to the tailgate : 1.500 m, height : 1.220 m, with : 1.340 m.
tailgate width :1 m

For the stake bed truck it says :
Closed cab with dropsides stake bed on a (I think) 1200kg chassis

For the trucks it says:
Paris - tractor picks up your chassis at the Ford Asnières factory and lengthen your frame.
The factory frame stays unmolested, uncut, undrilled.

 

If you download Google Translate to your phone, you can use the camera to translate literature. Just hold the camera over the text, and it will translate it.

 

Pretty darn cool and the research also awesome as well...It certainly has a shop truck or tour vehicle potential about it. I just noticed 2 drs on the passenger side. I thought it was 2 front drs and the rear.

 

That's what I thought when I bought it, I didn't think there was a rear seat either since I bought it sight unseen.

 

Today I found out that the '29 front bumper I ordered for another car was mispackaged and I received a '30/'31 instead with the '29 clamps. Since I can't return it, I decided to mock it up to see what it looks like on the delivery.
What do you guys think?

While I was at it I installed the dropped headlight bar that I bought for my RPU that I won't be using because of the '32 grille and the '32 headlights I will maybe be using for the RPU.
Since I had that Bentley fog light laying around for years I also mocked it up on the modified original Ford headlight bar for the heck of it.

 

Id be tempted to swap an American size A motor in and call it done!

Really cool car. Thanks for sharing

 

That's the goal, I have the engine, but gearbox and rear end are geared for the small engine. I can solve the rear end with a Matford rear end I have and I have a set of proper ring and pinion. But the box is a problem. Early Ford 3 speed or top loader are impossible to find, T5 are now very expensive, US versions are near impossible to find here. But SSangyong used them, are relatively easy to find and cheap but I don't know the gearing nor the bolt pattern.
I don't want to work or invest on it yet, I have other cars to finish first.

 

Since I have parts laying around from a trade deal I made about 10 years ago for a project that will maybe never see the light of day and have some duplicate parts I thought : why not use them on a very real car?
A 4" dropped 46" front axle that I suspect came from speedway, unfortunately a monoleaf that is 3/4" too short from speedway, aftermarket and model A spring perches, stainless steel spring shackles, '46 ford wishbone, '33 ford spindles, a model A tie rod and a selection of '28/'34 tie rod end plus a wishbone splitting kit from CTaulbert .
I started by restoring the tie rod ends, sand blasting and gun blueing of what was not worn out.

Shortening and straightening of the tie rod, I even reinserted the metal slug found originaly inside the threaded end.

Modification of the shackles to suit that stupid monoleaf.

Modification of the spring perches


At first I wanted to keep the eye for the mecanical brakes because I noticed that a lot of old build didn't remove them but upon mockup I found out that the steering arm was hitting.
Almost all assembled

I still need to ream the new spindle bushings and get a couple of tie rod balls.
A view of the now dropped steering arms.

I need to finish the shackles, but shall l paint them or polish them?

 

Sure they had water pumps. HRP

 

For a gearbox, perhaps a Volvo Amazon?

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/tech-banger-trans-swap.168654/#post-2565031

 

I'm leaning toward the M47 from the 740 or 960 I don't remember.
I didn't really like the flat shackles, I wanted something more original looking so I cut down 3 worn out A shackles and brazed them onto the ones I made to fit that stupid Speedway spring.



They're thicker than original ones, but under the fender it won't be noticeable.

On a side note I found out that on the French ford, on the '28 the grease fittings are those big brass ones that are pressed in, I don't know if it's the same on US fords and on the '29 the zerk fittings are metric thread while the castle nuts don't have a cut down head where the cotter pin goes in and the 9/16" socket is nearly impossible to get on while the 14mm fits like a glove despite the thread being UNF.
I wonder if it's a French ford thing : imperial thread with metric heads. I had those in multiple places on my '28 and on my Simca flathead.
Only one old mecanic told me about this saying it was so everybody could work on them without needing to buy new sets of tools, but that also led some mecanics to destroy threads by forcing metric nuts and bolts on them, or "cleaning" the threads with metric tap and dies.

 

Yesterday I picked up a set of front '36-'38 Matford V8-72 drums, dimension wise they are identical to the '37 and up Ford.
Visualy they're different because of the fins.

On the inside they have those swearly reinforcement ribs

I'm assuming those are the same on the UK Ford Pilot, maybe they can be found on other earlier EU Ford also but I have no info. But they do fit the '33 Ford spindles with the spacer.

 

I have a SSangYong box in my blown 34. I can send you some pics if you need info.

 

I am thinking a funeral parlor "flower car"?

 

We're talking about the t5 right?
I'm very curious about the bolt pattern, is it the same as Chevy ?
Do you run a close drive?
Is that the long or short version ?
Finally what kind of gearing did they use if you know ?
I'd like some pictures yes but in pm because it's not traditional at all.

 

I don't think that kind of car did exist in France or flower cars for that matter.
From what I gathered the original owner was a farmer. I could take a 2h drive to check the archives if they survived the war. Maybe someday if I have the time.

 

I´ll take a couple pics tomorrow and send your way. I made just a plate between SYbox and french clutch bellhousing. Put an S10 chevy rear housing on the box for relocating the shifter and made a bronze bush for the output yoke. The splines are different on the in- and output shafts so I used a SY clutch and a Nissan RX yoke as it has the same splines for the now open driveshaft . Rear axle is a Chevy with 3,03 ratio. Have to look for the box gearing, could be found on the net as well. OD is 0,82 if I recall correctly. When I added a blower the SY clutch at 9,5" could not hold above 3500 so I converted the french 11" clutch to the SY splines.

 

PM did not work:
Here are pics of the SY gearbox. The french bellhousing is aluminium, tranny end housing is Chevy.

 

SY clutch needs a spacer ring with 18mm height to get correct tension on the spring. No problems as the splines on mainshaft are long enough to accomodate. Clutch did hold my normally aspirated flathead, was easy to use and absolutely no chatter. It is used in the 2.9 ltr Diesel engine so can stand some torque. Made a spacer for the SY Throwout bearing and checked function when assembled without oilpan.