Projects 1950's Tube Frame Sports Car

Got the bar mocked up.



I had it left tall so I can shorten it. Looks like I can shorten it about 4 inches. My seat will go down about an inch when I take the adjustable slider out. I'll always need it all the way back anyway.

 

A little extra height is not a bad thing. If you crash to the ground upside down, your neck and spine might be a little longer than when you sit upright. Especially if you're taking a short nap at the time.

 

Also, you might run a string from the top of the bar to the highest forward point that would be in contact with the earth and see if you still have clearance. Your head is a long way in front of the roll bar.

 

Column support progress. Still need to turn up a plastic bushing that'll go between the mast and the aluminum. A mitered tube will be welded to each side plate and run forward to the bulkhead frame hoop.

 

Made a bushing out of some plastic I had and bored out the alum so it'd be captured.

 

General idea is that a tube cut similar to this one will get welded to each side plate. One side will run down to the bulkhead somewhere between the brake/clutch pedals and the other will hit about where the key switch is tied on.

 

I remember that one of our members was making and selling kingpin locks, in steel and stainless. I do need a pair for my current project. Any help in contacting him would be appreciated !

 

Maybe this is what you're thinking of?
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/v8-60-king-pin-retainer-bolts-steering-stops.1297610/

 

Thank You, that's the one I was looking for. Great job on this project, I like your approach !

 

Finally had a couple hours to mess around with the car today. I took the steering mast off to put the plastic bushing over it and started making one of the tubes that will support the column. On the left side the tube has to miss the clutch and brake pedals. The pedals are not in their finished configuration but I set the master cylinders in their approximate position. Ran out of time to get it welded to the frame. The other side will just be an angled tube.

 

Got the second tube part way done. I still need to cope the front end for where it meets the bulkhead tube. Decided to make it the same as the first one so they have similar flex when I tighten the column into position. Plus it probably looks better for them to be symmetrical.

 

Got the column support welded in. Ignore the subpar welding. I'm pretty happy how solid everything feels with the bottom of the box clamped and this upper support tightened.

 

Nice Jeremy. That's a great way to adjust the angle of the steering column. And another idea to plaigerize...

I'm going to redo the steering column mount on mine due to a change in the firewall design for simplicity. Now I just have to get into the garage and get it done.

 

Your welds will be fine. While not professional in appearance they look like they soaked in pretty well and are a pretty good match for the welds originally done on your car. Just be sure you don't have any cold welds that don't bond well to one or both pieces. Better to be hot and burn through than cold and not melt into the base metal.
If you keep the car rubber side down and avoid contact with immovable objects you're unlikely to have any problem with your welds.

 

Was just pondering how this was doing. Nice progress!

 

Progress has been slow. I did manage to get the tail section of the frame tacked back on today. That was kinda a process. I had originally removed the rear end of the frame so I could angle it down and level the fuel tank. The way they originally built it wasn't doing it for me.

I extended the tubes slightly and figured out the frame had to angle down at about 15-20 deg to put the fuel sender level. The floor where the car sits is broken and far from level. I leveled the frame on two pieces of unistrut and some milling machine setup blocks. That way I had something to reference out behind the frame.

When I started setting the rear section of the frame up I realized it was pretty crooked originally. One of the corners was more like 85 degrees.

I ended up cutting the rear tube about 3/4 inch in from each end so I could correct it somewhat. Now the tubes are parallel even though the whole rear section is shifted about a half inch to the p***enger side. This shift is due to the original kick-ups in the frame not being quite vertical. I tried to take these two pictures looking straight down on each side. Drivers side leans inward.

P***enger side is vertical or slightly out.


From there they spread both tubes about the same amount. This effectively shifts the whole back end to the p***enger side.

Here everything is tacked back together


The tank will sit about like this. The sender will be level now.



There will be removable tubes that run about where the scale sits in this photo. It should stiffen the tail up a lot.

 

Looks like there's going to be a crossmember in those notches. Will it tie into the spring crossmember?

Looking good BTW...

 

My cars are unique because I built them all and I am as unique as ti gets.

 

yeah I'm working on one that will tie into both the main crossmember and the sides. It will hold a removable roll bar.

 

What's a ti?

 

Texas Instruments calculator. We used them in school. TI-83

 

Looking Great Buddy!

 

Yesterday was kinda a big day. Decided to take advantage of one of the last warmer days this year. I rolled the car outside to a flat piece of cement for some pictures. This is the first time I think the car has rolled since sometime in 2016. Here's a link to the video of towing it over.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/jkecskopqo3p8cP1A

 

I took a bunch of pictures. Here are a few. Tried to get it from a lot of angles so I can reference proportions when it comes to a body. I'm really happy how my ride height came out and how it steers. I feel like it's staying true to form in spite of the changes made. Now it's back in the garage for the winter and hopefully I can get the pedals, master cylinders, and brake lines on for spring.

 

So cool! And you even have your own shop inspector! Next video, have a sound track of the engine, please. We're all waiting to hear it running!

 

Here's one from about a year ago that I had on my phone.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/H16y1Eh7AauNf1AE6

 

I imagine those pipes will sing sweet music at high rpm!

 

Today I removed the original floor framework. It was just 3/4 angle iron and will be replaced with tubes.

This rear angle will be replaced with a tube



Then I will X it so I can have a rear trans mount under the torque ball and also add a torque tube restraint.



Fortunately they only welded the angle to the tube along the top edge so I was able to score the welds and crack the angle loose.




After that I came back and did a nicer job grinding the remaining welds down.



Next time I'll start cutting and notching the new tubes.

 

Good progress Buddy

 

I got the rear tube fitted. Decided to put a bend in it for diff clearance. It's pretty much the same as the original under the bellhousing.









It's still well above the scrub line