Looking to fab or buy a steering arm for my Schroeder steering box. Can't find any From Schroeder, I guess Ididit bought em and don't carry em anymore. I have a torsion bar with the 1 inch 48 spline but was hoping to find an Existing Pitman arm that that would fit on the spine. Anyone what spline has a 1 inch 48 spline around 6.5 to 7 inches? The pic is what iam looking for. Thx
When I did my 32 roadster with Schroeder steering almost 20 years ago Schroeder didn't make anything I liked so I bought an aluminum torsion bar arm that fit the splines and had my local shop machine it to my specs. Looked and worked good. Car was cool and drove alright but I will never do another with Schroeder side steer.
Thx guys, seen the aluminum ones, like to stick to forged. Going to probably use the steel torsion bar have it machined and do little Twisting on it. Yes, cowl steer is cool especially at local shows, but cross steer next build. Actually decreased the length by an inch giving me a true 16:1 and thought the increased angle Oh would cause "bump steer", but didn't. Drove over all kinds of potholes and couldn't get it to.
I guess I would have to ask why forged? Yes, a forged pitman arm is very strong, but with a manual steering gear box that which is providing the resistance to flex or breakage at the other end is nothing more than your body. If you struck something with a wheel that caused the drag link to move, I can assure you that the steering wheel would simply be forced out of your hands. This is also a good time to remind you and every one else that, especially if you have a manual steering gear box, to never wrap your thumbs around the steering wheel. I can speak from experience as to exactly how much dislocating your thumb and breaking a metacarpal hurts. ...and yeah, I tried it twice. I was young and foolish then. Through hard work and determination, I can now say that I am no longer young. Cast, extruded, forged, or otherwise, you will break before the pitman arm does.
As for bump steer, your car does have it. It is just at a level where you are able to easily tolerate it. This car has demonstrable, instrument-recorded bump steer. I can feel it. The owner claims that it does not. That is his perception. It does not reflect reality, but you know what? That's good enough. He's comfortable driving the car, as you are comfortable driving yours. It has a 1:2 box, run backwards on the shaft to the wheel, so it is 16:1.
This is the correct diameter and spline count: https://www.x-sway.com/shop/613-1-6520-sway-bar-arm-1-48-spline-straight-steel-18-3-8-long-3724 While it is not a forged piece, it is steel, rather than aluminum. It has the appearance of cold roll steel. If that is the case, it has a yield strength of ~70,000psi. It does not appear to be hot roll, but if it were, it would yield at ~44,000psi. Either way, if you got there, you might not be intact anymore.
You need to contact John at Outlaw Hot Rod Parts. Thats where I got mine. It was just like the ones Gary Schroeder sold. He is on Facebook I think. hard to find him but worth it.
Yes, it's Physically impossible for my configuration not to have bump steer. The only way to have no bump steer to have the drag link and bone length the same and parallel. I have the 16:1 box so 11 years ago when I built the car i mounted the box high thinking a long arm was going to be used. Fast forward I want to make the pitman the same length as the steering arm giving me a true 16:1. I also put longer steering arms and a stabilizer. The longer steering arms also improved stability, I guess less force on the arm. The reason iam looking for a new cowl arm it appears to have been ground down to much, scarce me a bit giving not thick enough at the shaft. I found a steel torsion arm I work with that. Thx dudes
I am glad you are here, Sir. I know that being the voice of reason in an sea of misunderstanding is not an easy task.
The Jalopy Journal
