I have done a search and expected to find my answer ,maybe I am blind. Anyway 32 roadster with cut down 40 column mast and I intend to make a new solid steering wheel inner shaft to the 40 wheel. We have two universal joints below the floor to the Vega box. A 3/16 plate bolted on the floor with a clamp tube to fix the outer column. What is the preferred method to locate the steering shaft inside the column, and top and bottom bearings? Have to make a new steering shaft in solid round bar as the officials here won’t allow a spline on the original hollow shaft for the universal joints.
Might take a look at threads on building your own column. Would think a press fit oilite bushing on each end would do it.
Back when we were manufacturing a 39 & 40 column at first we used a Delrin bushing top and bottom but changed to an oillite bushing top and bottom. We made a lot of them over the years and never had problem. Probably should have used a bearing but this worked fine. Bought the shafts from Flaming River with 3/4 36 splines on one end and machined it to the correct length with the tapered, keyed and threaded top.
Garage door bearings , the drum that contains the large coil spring at the header of the door has a bearing in each end of the drum . They are 2 in OD and 3/4 or 1 ID which ever you choose to use . Also have a flange to stop it from getting lost inside the tube . Last few I purchased they cost about $5.00 each .
I used a large diameter pilot bushing and turned down the o.d. as needed. Maybe check a Dorman catalog.
I used Delrin for a bushing on my homemade Model A column and held it in place with a set screw threaded in the outer column into a shallow hole on the outer perimeter of the Delrin bushing. The bushing was just a tight enough to slip into the outer column with a bit of pressure by hand.
Another option is the use of an F-1 upper ball bearing and plastic Mustang cone along with the spring. This keeps the upper end tighter than a bushing and does away with annoying steering wheel "play".
I might be missing the point but don't the top and bottom flanged, wheelbarrow style, bearings keep the shaft in the correct position inside the outer sleeve? Chris
I found that the bottom Delrin bushing beside the exhaust manifold would sometimes become soft from the heat causing some steering resistance. Changing to the oil lite bushing made a better column.. We never had any excessive free play in our shaft. I sold a lot of both the 39 & 40 columns over the years with no problems.
The bearings keep the shaft centered; but you also have to control the linear motion of the shaft. Thought that is what the OP was asking about.
Corvair , for one , doesn't have a bushing or bearing at the bottom of the column , steering box bearing controls the shaft at the bottom , upper column bearing & spring at the top .
hello i think the confusion comes because the outer column diameter in 1940 goes from 1.5'' model a ,b 33/34 ford 1936/7/8/ its all 1.5'' outer tube dimensions so 1.5'' is 38mm in 1940 it goes to 1 3/4'' 1.3/4'' is 44.4mm so from the get go you need to open up your stock drop 2.2mm all the way around. ------------------------------------------ so you know your inner shaft dimension is 3/4'' 19.050mm these following bearings are mid bmx bearings - -their sizes are 15/8ths with a 3/4'' bore, or 41.3mm by 19.050mm now IF your tube had a 2.2mm wall thickness, these would push in and for 7 pound eighty seven pence - cheap but they will be loose so you would need make a spacer and weld it into the tube i should have just bought these and filed the top hat parts to fit the heavier wall tube i bought I stupidly didn't now the above existed and made an outer column in 3mm wall steel and bored it on a lathe .5mm and pressed in a pair of you try finding a pair of flanged 1 5/8th bearings with a 19mm bore for 8 quid!! i betcha you can find a bit of 1 3/4'' tube with a 1 5/8ths bore or 44.4mm steel tube with a 2mm wall 40.4 and **** in the 41.3 getting through the drop will be the problem though!! -------------------------------------------------------------------- next is split collars in 3/4'' bore these will work in the 1 3/4'' 44.4mm tube as the outer diameter is 1.5'' note if you just happen to be using a gm or ford steering wheel and needed an inner shaft that is exactly 31.25 inches long borgeson make one ready to go, 36 splined gm at the top and 36 splined 3/4 at the bottom you 'just' using a 1/2'' unf nut - -bolt the steering wheel on - -slide the bearing upflange the right way tighten the split collar, at the bottom, slide on the sploit collar and flanged bearing, then take your joint and when the splineage is in the corrent position in the joint, do it up and then do up the lower split collar - -measure between the flanges on the bearings and cut the tube - -if you didnt want to use split collars you 'could' use a 20''' long length of 1'' aluminiium tube with a 3/4'' bore, use a wavy washer under the steering wheel.
But kiwi wasn't asking about a column that is directly connected to the steering box. His column is being connected to a U-joint and the shaft in his column needs to be supported at each end and restrained from moving in and out of the tube.
Exactly as @RICH B said . In the worst case scenario what is to stop the column stabbing you. I guess the lower u joint just a hair off the outer tube ,or a shaft collar might help?
Returned home from sorta up north and accessed the pictures to help explain my previous posts. Column with a shaft collar against the lower bearing, this has the spring on the top between the bearing cone and wheel. Another column with a shaft collar and a spring against the lower bearing, this has a spacer at the top between the wheel and the bearing cone. An ***ortment of column parts, stock Ford rubber "bearing", a wheel barrow bearing, an F-1 bearing, a stock steel cone, a plastic Mustang cone, and preload spring. Both columns in the pictures have F-1 bearings; but would work the same with wheel barrow bearings as I have done on other projects.
Here's a column I built for a Roadster awhile back. Stainless tubing with OD to fit stock Ford column drop. I wanted to retain the locking ability of the drop, the taper/key at the top, and 3/4-DD at the bottom for a U-joint. Used sleeved bearings and split collars at both ends. Pretty simple. If anything, the hardest part was joining the two shafts and placement of the locking mechanism inside the column.
Excellent @RICH B , your pictures echoed your words, thanks a bunch for taking the time to post. Bought a couple of barrow bearings this afternoon, $8.00 pair. I will use your spring and shaft collar idea. Perfect.
The Jalopy Journal
