Yes the tubing is 3/16. Would you have used 1/8 in. ? I have a habit of overbuilding everything I do. But usually it is because that is what I have on hand.
With the layout you have, I think 3/16" is a good choice. Also, I don't know if you were considering the trans mount as chassis bracing. I might have used 1/8 for the straight parts but where it appears you are going to run exhaust through, 1/8 might have had flex if you have plenty of HP. and enough rubber on the rear to cause torsional twist.
I am looking at the crossmember as chassis bracing for sure. I see how you mounted yours. That idea had not come to mind, After some time spent looking things over yes I see the 1/4 in. plate would be overkill. So I have a plan just have to keep going. Thanks for the input.
When in doubt, make it stout. Flat bar doesn't have anywhere near the strength of tubing. It appears you are using a piece of flat bat to span the tacked up tubes. Granted the distance is short but I would rather be safe than sorry. Personally, I vote for the 1/4".
I have made some progress this week on the crossmember. It doesn't look like much but it is huge to me. I get a few holes drilled and installed some crush sleeves , plus started on a couple pieces of angle to weld to the frame, The best part is it will be easy to R & R.
The crossmember is finished and bolted in, Grade 8 Flange/Frame bolts and nuts using crush sleeves in the frame. Motor mounts are done. I have been working on the mounts for the trailing arm bushings ( rear of the lower control arm ) the plan is to get those mounts tacked in place and see where the caster setting is and go from there.
I worked on the piece of tubing for the bottom of the LCA mount, boxing the ends and adding a crush sleeve. Checking the alignment on the right side just To get an idea of where things are and it looks like zero camber and four degrees of positive caster with no shims. I can add shims under the black LCA mount and that will increase positive caster. So I am pretty happy with that.
So while I am working on this end of the truck I thought I might as well see about some hoses. Picked up a lower hose for a 66 Ford with a FE motor and it is so close. It just needs a little more length and a curve at the radiator end. That is off to a great start ! The stock Crown Vic caliper hoses are to short so those are out. I went by a local race shop I frequent and their parts guy sent me home with 3 different length stainless hoses with banjo ends on them along with the correct bolts for a trial fitting. Not my favorite look or it might be I am used to OEM rubber hoses. So I still have to work those out. But I have great friends in that whatever I need I can walk in to all kinds of shops and get what I need or use their equipment etc. It amazes me how well I am treated. Oh well I am old and "I digress" maybe they just feel sorry for me ! lol
So the stainless hoses were not what I wanted, so after trying 2 different rubber hoses with no success because they would not move like they needed to I was back to using the Crown Vic hoses. I fabbed up a bracket that that located the hose in the same position and angle as they were on the Crown Vic. I can live with it,
I went back through your video to see what you did but there really wasn't a shot of the hoses. The hose routing is a good example of the factories thinking can be hard to improve on.
What did you use for the PS lines ? I am just starting to look at that. I am leaning towards OEM lines ? The truck has that MARCH accessory drive and the pump is right above the rack. I did use a 2008 model rack so it does not have the electrical connection.
I used Earl's no. 6 hose and adapters for all of the pressure side. I purchased a roll of 3/8 hose meant for p.s. for the return lines running from the rack and the hydroboost. On the return from the rack, I don't remember if I bought a fitting or used my flaring tool to make a hose barb. If you use the GM press to connect dies and don't squeeze it all of the way, it makes a nice barb. I have 2 poor pics of my brake caliper hose.
wfo guy, I have read that with a GM ps pump you need to turn the pressure down. I see Borgeson makes a kit for that purpose. Any thoughts on that. This is all new for me, I didn't even know CV crossmembers were a thing until now.
I know that is true for Mustang 2 r&p but I don't know about the cv. I purchased a Tuff Stuff pump to install on my off topic daily. I have the Ford hyrdoboost and a c4 vette r&p. It's been too cold for me to install but they do make 2 different bypass springs for it. I'm working in reverse from most and this is the type 2 pump style.
Thanks , I will have to work on this. The little info. that I have come across so far says that the higher pressure makes the steering softer. That is why I used a 08 rack without electric asst. I read that the electric assist defaults to the softest position when not hooked up. I have no idea if that is correct.
I got the lower radiator hose spliced together, I believe I will get a couple heat shrink clamps for the splice.
It all takes time to make things happen. Install starter and header to make sure it is clocked correctly, it is not clocked right so correct that and check again. I do not have any starter bolts but the local Chevy store has them so $30.00 later for two bolts the starter is in place with GM bolts and that task is complete.
The Jalopy Journal
