I'm putting my low budget rattle can rebuild Merc back together and decided to block off the exhaust cross overs, I read up on the pros and cons and one question came to mind. Has anyone here blocked off only one side in an effort to reap the benefits of both trains of thought? Would this eliminate the sound canceling effect of not blocking either but still allow some beneficial heat? Just curious on what to do. Today, I looked around in my s**** bins for something to block the p***ages off with and came up with a couple of Co2 cartridges of the correct diameter and cut the ends off. They make for a perfect fit. Saved a trip to the parts store. Just trying to decide whether to use one or both.
I blocked off both sides on my 276" merc, I think it eliminates vapor lock. At least I've never had any.
> >They make for a perfect fit. Saved a trip to the parts store.> > If this is a Canadian block, you're supposed to use Canadian pennies.
As far as I can determine it is a Canadian Merc, with both intake and exhaust hardened seats and rotator valves. 4" stroke, standard bore. Originally had car water pumps and crank pulley (narrow belts). Original green paint. That should place it early 1950. I have never had much luck deciphering casting dates on these blocks. The code on this one would seem to indicate 1950-3rd month-7th day? Never thought of pennies. While my avatar flattie is being machined, bored, stroked, etc. this will be the temporary replacement.
That doesn't look like a dare code to me. More than likely a rebuilder's code, especially given the "QC". Have you seen this? "The number stamped on the top right rear of the manifold surface is a production date code (if it's there at all; not all engines have it). Here ya' go : Flathead Date Code On late model flatheads without the bell housing cast into the block, there is a code stamped on the right rear corner of the intake gasket face of the block which will give you the manufacturing date of your flathead Ford or Mercury. You can see it with the intake manifold and heads still on the engine. It consists of a series of a letter, a one or two digit number, and a second letter. The first letter is the month. The number is the day, and the second letter is the last digit of the year. The letter code is M=0, G=1, B=2, L=3, A=4, C=5, K=6, H=7, T=8, R=9, S=10, E=11, F=12. G 20 B would be an engine manufactured on January 20, 1952."
Thanks tubman but that "Flathead Date Code" doesn't seem to be relevant on the 4 Canadian blocks I've had but it is on my one US flathead. That number in my pic is the one ***igned by Ford of Canada and is in the same location used in the USA.
I pretty sure Canadian penny's will fit perfectly in those heat riser holes. Saving two cents by using the bottoms of those Co2 cartridge's is the ultimate in low buck building I guess Ronnieroadster
I'll admit that my knowledge of Canadian built engines is almost non-existent, but I'd still bet against that being a date code, although anything is possible.
Yes they do , I just tried one. In my view, a little on the thin side for an interference fit though. What's the worse that can happen? Yep, I'm not knowledgeable in the history or practices of the era in either country but it is interesting noticing the differences. I'm just hoping to find out if blocking one side only will retain the unique sound harmonics we like as well as be somewhat helpful in providing some needed heat and also prevent vapor lock. It will be fun experimenting with it. I'm sure the particulars of any build will factor in the results.
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