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Technical How safe would a 1939 Under Dash switch be?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by The37Kid, Feb 20, 2025.

  1. The37Kid
    Joined: Apr 30, 2004
    Posts: 32,528

    The37Kid
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    DSCF4251.JPG DSCF4253.JPG DSCF4254.JPG US2144139-drawings-page-1.png

    Found this panel at Hershey last year, and got a matching switch to full the hole on the end. If you understand electricity, would it be safe to use, or should I just leave it on the shelf? Thank you.

    Bob
     
    Last edited: Feb 20, 2025
  2. pprather
    Joined: Jan 10, 2007
    Posts: 8,991

    pprather
    Member

    To me it looks like a fire hazard, even if the whole thing was protected by steel box.
     

  3. You wont know until you try. Bench test it. Power and ground to the proper points. A load, such as a heater motor or head light bulb. If the switch does not heat up, I would not be afraid of it.

    Ben
     
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  4. The37Kid
    Joined: Apr 30, 2004
    Posts: 32,528

    The37Kid
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    If the snow ever melts and it is sunny and 65 or warmer outside, somebody might try that. Knowing what it once fit would help sell it.
     
  5. RICH B
    Joined: Feb 7, 2007
    Posts: 5,965

    RICH B
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    If the bakelight is good; you could probably clean the contacts and have a piece that is probably "safer" than the current Chineseum switches.
     
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  6. The37Kid
    Joined: Apr 30, 2004
    Posts: 32,528

    The37Kid
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    Any idea why there are Five switches? I got it from a Fire Truck guy.
     
  7. abe lugo
    Joined: Nov 8, 2002
    Posts: 3,339

    abe lugo
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Just update the switches and ground the panel.
     
  8. jnaki
    Joined: Jan 1, 2015
    Posts: 11,377

    jnaki

    upload_2025-2-21_3-58-0.png
    Hello,
    Nice find and future project. If it is the nice panel and switches you want to preserve, no amount of new wiring will be safe if you use the old wiring and switches. Get new switches and put on the old handles using the old bracket. Now, you will have a nice old bracket, with new rear wiring and be safe without any future problems. You will have a new/old switch panel. It will look good in any old car.

    Any old wiring is suspect and should be discarded. If you figure out where each one should go, now the new wires will make everything safe.

    upload_2025-2-21_4-8-1.png

    In our 327 powered 1940 Ford Sedan Delivery, we had a new switch for accessory lights. It had a new black knob. But, if we had found an old one like this, it would be totally refurbished with new switches and new wiring, but retain the old knobs only. Your new project would be a version of NOS... YRMV
     
  9. pila38
    Joined: Mar 25, 2009
    Posts: 1,097

    pila38
    Member

    This. Put new switches in and swap the knobs? That is a really cool panel and switches, would be a shame to not use it.
     
  10. Unless the bakelite has turned to carbon and isn't cracked, it would be fine to use. Give them a squirt with some contact cleaner, test them out with a load, and see how you go. Plenty of original switches still being used in 20's & '30's cars on the road now.
     
  11. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 59,983

    squirrel
    Member

    Looks like a nice accessory switch panel to add some switched lights to your fire truck. I don't have any idea what use it would be in a hot rod, though.
     
  12. rusty valley
    Joined: Oct 25, 2014
    Posts: 4,345

    rusty valley
    Member

    I would use it in a heartbeat. Like Rich B said, prolly better than a new piece o junk. Just clean it up, try spray electrical cleaner, and/or bend the tabs over, take it apart and clean it proper. Any high amp stuff like head lights could use the old switch to trigger a relay so very little power going thru the switch. You could play with it and run a headlight bulb on there to see if the switch gets warm.
    Heat = resistance, which means it needs to be cleaned up
     
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  13. RodStRace
    Joined: Dec 7, 2007
    Posts: 8,917

    RodStRace
    Member

    Yes, a good cleaning and testing for safety. Any bigger loads should be p***ed off to a relay with the switch acting as trigger.
    Moving contacts can and will get corroded, but just like more modern switches or solenoids, can work safely, provided the insulator is still whole.
    Have you checked/sourced the fuses?
     
  14. 1971BB427
    Joined: Mar 6, 2010
    Posts: 9,834

    1971BB427
    Member
    from Oregon

    I'd start by putting an ohm meter across the terminals to see how much resistance there is on the contacts. If you read more than 1 ohm after zeroing your meter it's got some dirty contacts. The higher the resistance the more heat there will be when a load is across the switch. So I'd avoid it if the contacts don't have low resistance.
     
  15. RICH B
    Joined: Feb 7, 2007
    Posts: 5,965

    RICH B
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    The patent sheet you posted showed a diagram with two switches; head lights on one and park lights and tail light on the other. A fire truck would have those and additional switches for a Mars light, spot light, work light, etc.
     
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  16. This is what I have in my Advance Design Chevy truck. It's sort of like the one in the opening post but it has new repop switches. That's what I would recommend doing with that one too.
    I got the vintage, chrome bezil-pod off of The Bay Of Fleas and added the new switches. It wraps around the bottom and ends to mask the back side. The one on the left is a cig lighter, though I don't smoke or allow it in my truck. I just wanted the power port to be able to plug in an accessory, though I've never used it to date. I could change it for another switch, ****on, or something else easy enough.
    The pod is under the dash, centered. The backs of the switches just stick out in the back but I have a new, neat wiring harness so I'm not worried about any possible concerns.

    DSCN1903 (2).JPG
     
    Last edited: Feb 21, 2025
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