I believe this is the Wiring Diagram that's required for our simple Project Car. TBH, I was looking for the Ignition Coil and Ballast. (yeah, I'm Old). But, found these have been replaced by the GM HEI Distributor. So, if this Wiring Diagram is accurate, what gage wires are required?
12 Gage. Just be sure that your ignition wire to the HEI has constant power during start up from your ignition switch. That said, what ignition switch are you running?
On the wiring diagram shown, you have noted a 1-wire alt. which is also the picture. You do not need the keyed wire to alt or the light wire. Refer to the Green circle in the picture. The ignition wiring is correct. As @Johnny Gee mentions, make sure that circuit is powered in On and Start.
Thanks Johnny Gee. Greatly Appreciate the Info. Will Run 12 Gage and ensure the Ignition Wire to the HEI has Constant Power. With respect to the ignition switch, I'm agnostic and would welcome any recommendations.
Here I got my crayons out and fixed it to go the way RodstRace said it should be. Your original drawing was fine for anything running a Delco alternator and Ford starter solenoid and HeI Still I do not see the point of paying extra money for a one wire alternator on a hot rod just so two wires don't show in your engine compartment. I see the the point on Street Rods that the owner doesn't want any wires showing in the engine compartment but one wire alternators were created for tractors with magnito ignition or diesel engines with no ignition. That is the main reason for them at all you don't need an ignition system or exciter wire for them to operate. I was working on tractors and diesel trucks with them long before street rodders fell in love with them.
Universal 4 terminal ignition switch (battery, ignition, accessory, start) will work. Unless you want something more complex like that of the OEM’s.
In regards to HEI wiring. Let’s say one has an ignition switch that does not provide power via the wire to the HEI when key is turned the start position. One only needs to use the ignition bypass terminal at the starter relay.
Correct. It will be an additional source of the same 12V. Some switches bypass all On connections when in Start and this provides the ignition feed. Easily checked with an Ohmmeter at the store when looking to buy if they allow such things. Connect the meter across On terminal and + terminal then turn ignition to Start. It should have 0 ohms. If it doesn't, add this wire.
I only mentioned the bypass via the starter relay because. 1) It appears op doesn’t have a switch at this time. So who knows what switch will be used? 2) When individuals have electrical question as simple as this one. They typically do not understand how circuits work. Generally speaking, not saying this is the case here.
Got you, @Johnny Gee. That's why I explained how to check to see if it's needed. A switch is a switch until it only starts after you release the key! We will get the OP there together!
Johnny Gee, Appreciate your recommendation. Really don' require anything fancy, just functional. per your recommendation, I've selected the below 4 position Ignition Switch. And, depending on the reading from the multimeter will adjust and add the bypass as recommend by RodStRace. Thanks