Termites and Bowties- Early Chevy Group

Please look at these pics to understand my question.
I need your wisdom. I just don’t understand what holds onto the body of my coupe at the areas that are outside the chassis and subframe.
I have a subframe laying on top of my chassis and I made it the same thickness as the original wood floor beams that were nailed to the rocker at the door threshold. The top edge of the rocker lines up nicely with the top surface of the subframe. The lower edge of the body follows the same bead as the lower edge of the rocker. I know I have my rocker pieces lined up correctly.
So what connects to the body flange shown in the pictures? I’m guessing that maybe a vertical piece of wood was nailed to the underside of the wood floor beams (subframe) and it extended down to that body flange, but that’s just a guess. The flange shown in the pics is at least 4” below the top chassis flange. A similar flange exists on the lower body just in front of the rocker. Help!

 

I have a pair of rear 34 Standard sedan fenders. Haven't handled them for several years but as I remember they were pretty decent. They need to go to someone that can use them. Be glad to get some photos to anyone interested.

 

I suspect your right about a second piece of Wood to fill the gap. I'll get into my build photos and see if I have anything that will help you out. I'm guessing I just folded up a piece that would do the job and moved on.

 

Those would have been tacked to the main sills. So there was more wood that may not have been in with yours when you got it.
This may help:
https://forums.aaca.org/topic/164305-reconstruction-of-a-34-chevy-master-coupe/
you may want to try searching main sills for your car to see exactly what they would’ve looked like. Although, they should be fairly similar to the picture @31chevymike posted of his:

 

After looking through a lot of photos it looks like the actual pieces for that job I folded up didn't get photographed. I do remember making it now. In the photo below, if you enlarge it you can see the same flange on the bottom of the quarter and I remember there being nail holes in the flange also. Also notice it hangs well below the Sub Rail like yours. The nail holes are a tell tail that it was nailed to wood.

I do not have a photo without the upholstery card in place but in this photo, you can see there is nothing to support the bottom edge of the upholstery card.

In this photo the cleko is a giveaway there is a check to support the bottom edge of the upholstery card. You can also see some heat marks from rosette welds. It was a little involved but easy to make, all strait folds. I cut a piece the width I needed and a little longer top to bottom than needed. I started with a 1" 90 degree fold. That 1" would sit on the top of the floor pan and be welded in place once done. I then went up from the 90 degree 2" and folded a fill 180 degree. On the edge mating to the B Post I folded a 1/2" flange to butt against the post. I trimmed the bottom edge to stop at the quarter flange and extra dropping through and past the bottom edge. Then I scribed a line matching the Quarter flange and removed the part. Next was fold a 1/2" flange to sit on top of the flange with all the nail holes. Now the 2 opposing 90 degree flanges just sit on top of both quarter flange and floor pan, Weld it up and a little body seem sealer. Done, one part doing 2 jobs.

 

Too bad they don't make them for 34 Chevy Master car !!

 

Fabrication of the B pillars is underway and going well.
What do you suggest I use as a noise free spacer where the B pillar contacts the stepped corner of the body at the B pillar? The original wood was nailed in place and to my knowledge had no spacer material. I imagine the wood against metal started squeaking within a year or so of regular driving. Such was life back then.
Would you suggest dynamat or similar sound reducing material? Retired fire hose material is something I’ve considered. Pretty cheap and very rugged.
The stepped corner of the body flange needs to have at least 2 surfaces in contact with the B pillar in my opinion.
I saw one builder who actually welded through the body skin to secure it to the interior bracing. I’d rather not do that.

 

I have used both tar paper or electrical tape to isolate panels. black electrical tape disappears and stays in place.

 

I have to ask, is there a particular reason you don't want the Body skin and inner structure a solid unit?

 

These sealed beam headlights are near me. Pretty nice condition overall. Any idea what they were from? Seller doesn’t know.

 

I don’t enjoy the thought of drilling holes in the body skin. The car originally had wood nailed to small flanges around all “openings” such as windows and doors, along the roof perimeter and the bottom edges of sheet metal. So I was going to stay with that.
I guess I’m worried about the skin developing holes or stress cracks.

 

I understand that line of thinking. When I was building the 34 I actually used the nail holes to attach the Body Skin to my inner structure. I took my Whitney Punch and enlarged the nail holes to`1/8" punching from contact side out so the dimple worked for me when welding. I had decided the spacing worked well and being nailed to a flexible item and not braking out from stress they should work well with all the Flexing removed. Kept the job simple enough and made a solid unit of the total package.

 

They're called, "Guide" headlights from the 30's. I believe that the bulbs were common 5 -7" in diameter, easier to purchase than the original headlights that were larger in diameter. Had a pair on my '31 way back in the beginning years of ownership. The headlight "eyebrows" were common in the fifties (did I nail that 50's look or what?). They're perfect to run turn signals on hot rods instead of those cheesy aftermarket ones that look way too modern on a nostalgia hot rod.

 

Fabrication always takes me twice as long as I thought it would. Oh well. I hope what I learned makes the other side go a lot faster.
Pieces are mocked up with cleco fasteners and rivets. I like to make videos to document my build. VIDEO LINK

 

Some new jewelry for the 35

 

These are guide 682-C’s I was running these in my car before I switched to 904a’s

 

For those of us that don't know, what is the origin of this beautiful wheel? If it's been restored who restored it?

 

It’s a 1940 Chevrolet special deluxe… or “spinner”,”fatman” wheel. Yeah it was rechromed and remolded in a translucent red. Done by steeringwheelbykris out of socal

 

Thanks for the information.

 

That steering wheel is stunning... Talk about sucking your eyeballs right out of your sockets when viewing a true vintage hot rod interior...

 

After the show this weekend I should actually be getting the interior done haha. I painted the body too so I’ll get some pics up this weekend

 

awesome!

 

Snoop,
You have a great looking ride. An inspiration for me to keep building mine.

 

You keep improving that original steel body to a higher level of excellence brother! We're anxiously waiting to see what your interior will look like... Great shot of your (club members?) lined up in that old town setting!

 

Sorry to keep flooding the page with pics. Also thanks everyone car really came together.

 

So good dude!

 

Passenger side is mocked up.

 

Where were those pictures taken?

 

Texas!