Hey all I am building a Burtz engine for my 1930 coupe I’m wanting it to be some what “stock ish” in appearance and be able to close my hood What options do we have for updraft carbs? What about dual updraft carbs? Are there any “other” updraft carbs that can feed the engine? I'm thinking to use the 6.5 Burtz head and camshaft thanks again Dave
Starting with the easiest to swap over, would be a Model B carb and manifold. Slightly bigger carb and manifold, a little tough to find, but basically bolts right up. Good ol fashioned Carter BB1 swap out. This was a very common carb to find under the hood in the 70’s-90’s. They’re made in many sizes for use in forklifts to chebby COE trucks The only dual updraft manifold that I know of accepted 2 stock Model A carbs. Think it was made by Miller. Yes it’s pretty cool, but still leaves you with Model A carbs. A bit more pricy would be a Winfield. Originally sold in A (1”) and AA (1-1/8”) updraft sizes to directly fit a Model A/B intake manifold. Not exactly common, but can be found fairly easily. Updrafts are usually easier to find too. Here is a link to the original Winfield catalog https://eraspeed.com/winfield-1930
There was a company called Trojan that sold a manifold for dual updrafts. Here is a link to one that sold on Fordbarn, https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=310039&highlight=trojan. I have one around somewhere but it is not for sale. Charlie Stephens
Is the carter BB1 a decent option? I’m a fairly competent fabricator I was thinking maybe to build an intake manifold from schedule 40 weldable components thanks again for everything Dave
You can put the B carb on the A manifold. You should get a big drill to open up the throat. You need to use bolts with the threads ground off where they pass through the manifold so you can twist the carb enough for the choke rod to line up. and some brass fitting for the fuel line to line up. Renner's Corner sells them but easy to make even with just a drill. https://www.rennerscorner.com/carburetor.html I've seen the dual updraft but never liked how close the rear intake is to the exhaust pipe.
This is the carb I've got put aside for a project, these vintage carbs are about. Probably not in hot rod circles so much though... View attachment 6331011
All good advice here, Burtz cam is pretty mild and the head isn't crazy hi compression... stock B carb(s) would be just fine, but a Winfield would be pretty cool... B's or BB's, C would be getting pretty big.
I think I’m going to go with dual B carbs When I was a kid I had d a pair of Holley 600s on a 289 with factory progressive linkage and I remember those HAD to be 100% identical in every way when I rebuilt them I’m assuming B carbs would be the same line of thought though this carburetor system is much more of a simple process currently I have a 100% stock set up in the car model a with a model a zenith and I will be honest I “truly” do not fully understand how the choke rod/jet works if mine is even correct the car runs well but it seems to me as the knob is fully seated when it’s running down the road there is no adjusting because it’s turned all the way in. how do guys control this with a pair of carbs? I could build a joining linkage to operate both chokes but the adjustment would be limited to one unless I could come up with a fairly complex angle gear system again just thinking at this point
On a different note Gene from MEC called me Wednesday and my shortening and replanting of the main shaft for the T-170 was complete! it’s in my hands and he did a fine job! I also bought one of his E-Brake mount kits for the T-170 im going to get the flywheel housing mocked up and determine exactly how much I need to shorten the input shaft before I assemble the T-170 my thoughts are get the transmission assembly done and put it on the shelf while the engine is coming together thanks for everything guys Dave
I'm having a hard time finding a clutch disk that fits in the Model A pressure plate for my T170 retrofit. The centre of the pressure plate spring assembly won't fit in the centre of the model A pressure plate. So I took one apart and bored it to 5 3/4" it now works but now I'm running into another issue which is the back of the springs on the flywheel side are interfering with the flywheel bolts. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks.
I know nothing about Model A/B carbs, but when running duals, I don't think you'll need both chokes to be operational. The front one can be locked open and the rear carb can have the operational choke. Not sure if this helps you any.
If your jet screw is all the way in… your carb is not working correctly. Not too familiar with the Zenith carbs, but I believe the main jet is a fuel orifice. Screw it all the way in and you should shut off the fuel flow. This rebuild article suggests that the main jet should be open 1/2 turn https://www.santaanitaas.org/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/The-Zenith-Carburetor-11-07.pdf When running duals, neither carb will be in position to accept the stock dash control rod. Adjusting will need to be done from under he hood. Choking only 1 carb works well enough, no need for complicated linkage
So stupid question do updraft carbs get awful mileage? If so why? it dosent really matter because this car wk t make road trips but awful mileage means it runs rich not stoich am I missing something? Dave
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