Featured Projects The plot thickens

Ok so I was not intending to convert to an electric fuel pump on my 50 Ford custom but in moving the motor and getting it back in the frame the fuel pump stand was damaged. Now I was looking into switching to an electric fuel pump and I've seen where the pushrob bushing needs to be plugged.

Can anyone direct me to the purchase of said plug for the pushrod bushing? I don't not have access to a lathe so making my own is not exactly an option.

Thank you all in advance

 

Why not replace the fuel pump stand?

 

I could but from all the reading it's seems most think it's better to go with an electric fuel pump. Do you disagree? I am definitely looking for imput

 

Flathead? Electric pump is for when you need some kinda help. No reason to not just replace the stock parts.

 

Airtex 578-9350, I think. I've bought two in the last few years, work just fine.

 

I got a replacement pump from ebay for my 1950 Crestliner. It looks cheap and is not an exact copy but its working ok

 

So maybe Ratchet just needs the stand? That's easy.

 

The stand is what broke but my original intention was to replace the pump as well as this vehicle has not run in quite some time so I'm replacing some of the parts just as precautionary measures.

 

call Jim at Gotham auto parts . he should have the parts. the last time I needed an early fuel pump stand [1934] I got it from Irontrap finds.

 

Hey I appreciate the info...

 

Also the fuel lines from front to rear need replaced, can anyone tell me what is the proper size line to use from tank to pump, I plan to use copper nickel fuel line unless someone has a better suggestion.

 

Check with Shoebox Central in OKC . They have a lot of parts .

 

Also check out Inline Tubes . I got all the replacement fuel lines and brake lines for my 57 Fairlane from them . Fit and bends were spot on

 

Replace the mechanical fuel pump stand, and the pump if need be. You can get 1/4" or 3/8" aluminum fuel line from Speedway Motors for cheap and 12" of rubber fuel hose & clamps for the tank and pump ends.

 

Slowly coming together ran into more small problems. The fuel pump stand broke because it was pinned against the firewall, its like it does not fit and the fuel pedal linkage hits the bowl... I need to crawl under and see if the transmission in in correctly or if it's missing something to hold it up higher... I'm already beginning to hate the triple deuce setup but some of the stuff on this care was severely shadetree engineered...

 

I found that the nickel copper over a steel line is very hard to flare so I went with the green fuel line or trans line.

 

I appreciate that information, that copper nickel ain't cheap lol but it is resilient

 

To answer the original question, plugging the 8BA fuel pump push rod bore, while not totally necessary, will maintain full oil pressure. I simply weld a washer on the stock lower rod end to position it just above the pump cam lobe and drop it in place. Easy peezy.

 

That's perfect... I really appreciate that information I had read it was not completely necessary but definitely needed to hear for someone more experienced than I... I was going to put a mechanical pump back on it but the engine is canted to the rear and the fuel pump hits the firewall that's how the pump stand broke to begin with. The previous owner changed the driveshaft tunnel in the floor I'm guessing to put a modern engine and drivetrain in it but when I got it the basically fresh rebuilt flathead was there with the 3 on the tree trans still bolted to it so I just put it back. Right now I'm in the process of rewiring the entire car, they changed out the generator for a 12v alternator and the wiring was a disaster. I'll keep posting as I go lol

 

Is the engine located correctly using the stock front motor mounts?

 

Yes everything on the engine is stock and the transmission mount seems fine too but the fuel pump hits the firewall stiff enough to break the stand lol

 

Question, do you cut it down to just below the block off plate so it can't jump out?

 

You'll have to shorten the rod if using a pump stand block-off plate, but I have one running with a pump-less stand, and the rod stays in place.

 

My stand it what broke so unless I buy a new stand I'll have to use a block off plate thank you again for your wealth of knowledge

 

Ok my car has been converted to 12v by the previous owner half the wiring was pulled out but never redone. I ordered the voltage reducer for the 6v gauges to operate can someone tell me if there is a way to make the battery gauge work correctly or if there is an OE style gauge I can get?

 

Made a little progress this week under hood almost completely rewired, fenders, and radiator back on. Waiting on a big delivery from Shoebox Central so I can continue...