Projects Quality Headlight Switch

Who makes a quality universal headlight switch?
The switch in my wagon feels cheap and the dimmer for the dash lights doesn’t really work. It only seems to have two settings, high low and off and if I breath on the switch the dash lights flicker or turn off.

I just need a basic 12v pull out headlight switch.

 

I've had the best luck with original old factory switches. Finding a good used 75 year old switch can take a bit of effort, but it's worth it to have one that fits and works like it should.

As you've found, most modern replacement electric parts are lacking...

So, first step is to get your mind out of the "universal" gutter.

 

Just what I was going to suggest. Also consider a 6 volt switch; they are designed to carry twice as much current as a 12 volt unit.

 

I used a switch from NAPA in our wagon. HRP

 

Avoid Communist China JUNK. Saves a lot of headaches!

 

Headlight switch ehh? Sounds like a umm, bright idea. Hehe.

 

The rheostat in a headlamp switch can frequently get fouled with dirt and corrosion. The rheostat and contacts are often visible and easily accessed. Get an aerosol can of DeOxit D5 and try giving everything a good cleaning. Spray everything down good and repeatedly cycle the switch and rheostat thru its full range of settings. Do this a few times. Like it says on the shampoo bottles; "lather, rinse, repeat". Unless the switch has some sort of mechanical failure, this will likely bring it all back to life.

 

Quality, universal, and new is not in the same sentence nowadays. I pulled everyone I could find in the old car junkyards for years. That, flashers, and distributor condensers.

 

I have been using a headlight switch that takes care of the high been also, works well.

 

I'm with Jim, OEM works best. If the only problem with yours is the dash light dimmer, the DeOxit mentioned can work well, although I prefer the 'Gold' stuff. If you have a guitar/music shop in town, they should carry it, otherwise you can find it online. If that doesn't work, then look for a '56-59 Ford NOS switch (they do turn up but probably won't be cheap). Anything aftermarket you find new will be junk (Rockauto no longer lists these). I'm assuming you still have the OEM switch. These will be a direct replacement.

If you strike out there, then your only option is a newer style switch. Ford changed the switch design in '60 and used that for the next 20 years or so. The problem here is you'll have to do some rewiring as these don't have screw terminals, instead they use a big plug. These also don't have the fuses for the taillights and dash lights on the switch like the older ones so those will have to be added to your harness along with a separate circuit to the switch to feed them (or piggyback them off the main feed to the switch). Again, OEM will be best although Standard Motor Products used to make a good switch and may still. Their part # is DS148, about $20. One minor glitch is the OEM '60-67 switches turned off the park lights when the headlights are on like your OEM switch, '68-up they stay on. Because this change is internal to the switch, the aftermarket has 'standardized' to the later design, no longer offering the early type.

 

Rheostats on old headlight switches can often get weak from just age, but also can be fixed easily, and often better than a new switch!
Just remove the switch and with the battery disconnected bend the tab on the rheostat so it makes better contact with the little copper windings on the rheostat. Then clean the windings with a pencil eraser by rubbing the eraser across at the same direction as the windings travel. Reinstall it and it should work like new again and give you full adjustment.

 

One other thing that should be mentioned. The newer type Ford switches should fit without mods into your dash, re-using the OEM bezel and knob/shaft. Stay far away from any 'universal' types as that may not be the case.

 

Try a big truck dealer. They seem to have a better quality switch like toggle switches and push pull switches.

 

They do, but semis don't generally use a car-style switch. It's usually individual toggles for each lighting circuit. Cole-Hersee (who supplies most of the switches for them) doesn't offer a car-style headlight switch... which surprised me a bit.

 

Over the years that I owned my 57 T-Bird, I put in 3 headlight switches. They all had the same failure which was the rheostat for the dash lights. I finally moved the dash light wire to the headlight terminal. I couldn't dim them, but they didn't go out all the time. These were stock switches sourced from T-Bird suppliers. Probably all made by the same company.

 

I have used Cole-Hersee with good results. https://www.elecdirect.com/cole-hersee-switches/cole-hersee-rotary-headlamp-switches
I think this is one. https://www.ronfrancis.com/product/661
Often OEM in industrial stuff.
https://info.littelfuse.com/cole-hersee
Mike

 

Keep-in-mind....even a cheap-a$$ switch should operate a a circuit on a relay. Run the lights through a relay
(One for hi beams... One for low beams maybe one for dash dimmer.)
The switch will just 'see' the load of the relay...not the entire light circuit.
Put the horn on a relay too and electric fan...for the same reason.
6sally6

 

Last year I replaced the headlight switch on Papaw for the same reasons that have been mentioned. I used a NAPA universal switch I bought 25 years ago and it feels cheesy as hell. The switch @Crazy Steve mentioned looks a lot like the headlight switch in Little Truckdoctor’s F-150 (O/T). I looked up the F-150 switch on the Rock. $16 bucks for the WVE Brand (owned by NGK). Another $8.70 gets me the connector. That’s what I’m going to do. Now, to the junkyard for a bezel and stalk. Ford parts on a Chevy?? What has the world come to?

 

If you use eBay for parts, type nos before the part you’re looking for and you can find great American made old parts that have been sitting on a shelf unused.

 

yeah, I do buy a bunch of NORS Standard Motor Products electrical and ignition parts. They usually work pretty well. Make sure to look carefully at the pics, to make sure it's a new part and not the broken old one that was replaced, also make sure the box doesn't have a bar code, which means it's old.

 

Thanks for all the great advice.
The previous owner of my car replaced the wiring harness and all the switches are junk. I’ve already replaced the ignition switch, wiper switch and floor dimmer.

I’ll look for some kind of NOS switch. Unfortunately the oldest car in a junkyard around here is 2005 ☹️.

I may have a switch from an early foxbody in stock, I’ll have a look at that tomorrow.

 

go back a few more decades!

 

I went with cole-hersee switch that they use in semi trucks, 15 years and no problems.

 

I used a Sorenson brand switch from a parts store that was going out of business. It worked good 'til the circuit breaker deciced to trip when I was in the middle of an ess curve late at night. No fun. I replaced it with one from Ron Francis WireWorks and all has been good. I know it's a re-pop of a GM switch, but I don't know the application.

Gary

 

Not to be too much of a SA, but please inform me of a relay that provides output of varying amounts to match the dimmer circuit input.

 

Don’t know what an SA is but I probably am one.

 

Just came to me, smart ass! That’s me.

 

Old as in 90s and older, NOS, NORS or universal switches. I've been stocking up on them (as well as old catalogs) Standard Ignition, BWD, Niehoff, Sorenson, Cole Hersee, Echlin........just as long as it it's old.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3614376119...wAQHUhfLjwssKfufSNgfXI4ig=|tkp:Bk9SR7L9yoSoZQ

 

just a note in case Halogen Headlights have been installed..
If used without relays they pull a LOT of Amps for the older HL switches
can possibly cause early failure.

 

I have a Ron Francis Wiring headlight switch use it with halogen headlights and LED taillights and turn signals for over 10 years with no problems. https://www.ronfrancis.com/category/s?keyword=Headlight+switch