Projects 1934 Ford Pickup in England

How do you achieve the sealing between the box and the ring of your adapter?

 

The half U-joint is available in Germany from Piston Knockers, and is also in the forum here.

I got my conversion kit for my M40 gearbox from him.
Regards Harald

 

Looks good!
Just as a visual suggestion, not from any stress analysis which could be done in CAD.
The bracing from the collar back the the flange, I'd like to see using small diameter round tube, to add twist strength, not just back and forth. I'd try to connect at the point where the collar has a step on each side to beef up that point, too. Ugly drawing to show this side. Repeat 2 more on other side.
I don't know how much force is applied to that flange when the rear axle goes over a bump on one side, but I'd want that strong.

 

Thanks for the comments and suggestions.
Chrisp - not given it too much thought yet, but I can probably get a rotary oil seal, in a similar place the the Volvo tailshaft one.
RodStRace - thanks, yes I believe it will need to be strong, how strong I too have no idea.
Deutscher - that was a great suggestion, the splines even looked right, but I checked a few times, and that Model A flange is 26 spline, and my M46 gearbox is 25 spline. I was surprised that Volvo felt the need to change.

 

Why the M46 instead of the M47?
The M47 is a 5 speed and shorter for those who don't know. From What I read, it's not very strong but it seems to hold up to 250hp. I'm asking because I'm contemplating this gearbox for a build.

 

M47 was my original thought, but a very complete M46 came up for sale cheap, just 30 mins away.
The M47 appears to have the extra gear bolted onto the back of the case.

That might make clearance on my transmission crossmember more of an issue.
Chopping out crossmembers, on a UK registered car is frowned upon, as it can make the car loose its classic registration.
I won't know what clearance is like until the bellhousing turns up in a week or so.
I've got very little invested in this M46 so far, and the M47 has some stout bolts on the rear to take a tube, so I may still go M47....

 

And it's an aluminium case.

 

I've been busy, and I've been shopping, I've also bought the worlds dirtiest M47 gearbox.

It was cheap-ish, and local-ish, but it the output area looked a much better bet, than the M46 for trying to mount a torque tube to.

I messed about and managed to get a 3D scan of the gearbox.
That allowed me to produce a test plate for the bellhousing end, just to prove my dimensions etc.

But more cruicially for this project, the rear output.
I modelled a temporary "bush" to slide over the output shaft, to prove the alignment between that and the mounting holes.

This piece I will have to try and get machined, with an internal Volvo spline and and external Ford spline.
Or by welding Ford and Volvo splines together, I'll have to see if I can get a spare output shaft, or see just how good my machining buddy is.
The hole is only there so I can check that is fully "home" on the output shaft.

But it allows the Ford UJ to bolt up.

That gives everything I need to spend ages drawing and printing a mounting bracket for the torque tube.

I printed that strong, so I could bolt everything together for a proper prototype.

I've spaced it from the casing by 10mm, because the case isn't machined. I might reduce this in the next incarnation, and work out how to seal it. Currently a big bead of silicon is looking favourite.
Here is a better view.......

I'm going to use a steel tube off-cut to build the final version, but I had to make clearance to clear the shifter connection.
I don't know how much clearance I need yet, as I'm waiting for a modified shifter to be delivered from Sweden.
But I suspect I've allowed too much, which will allow me to shorten the adapter by at least 25mm/1 inch.
The horizontal holes, are only sighting holes, so I can see how much clearance I've got when the Ford UJ is spinning. I've got plenty at the moment.
I think this is going to be a cleaner and simpler conversion than the M46, so I'm going to push on with this version.
Thanks for looking.

 

Amazing!

 

What can be done with 3D printing, great work, I'm curious.
Greetings Harald

 

amazing work sir!!

Could you integrate an 'O'ring groove into the adapter to get it to seal? A little more elegant than the bead of silicone haha!

 

Could you machine the end plate of the gearbox to get a good seal. If you were to weld the Volvo shaft to the Ford shaft friction weld would be the way to go.

 

loving this, the use of 3d printing to prototype is very cool. Love the indicators in the horns, loads of nice touches

 

I'm glad you're going the M47 way because that's what I had in mind for one of my cars.

 

I had a little time on my hands, so I decided to do a version, which was as short as possible.
Space for the shifter rod is my primary limitation, and I don't want to re-engineer that.

Put the two pieces together, the end of the spigot has to be 5mm proud of the flange - well it was on my 3-speed.

I've left the top open - to see what clearances I have. I have some - so that is good.

All assembled for sanity.

This time, I've just got a washers gap between the case and the adapter.
I reckon that will be perfect for a cork gasket.

That is 7" longer than the 3-speed - which I'm going to call a win,
I don't see any reason wht I can't pull the trigger and start getting some of these parts machined/laser cut now.
Thanks for looking.

 

Sorry moglite but I had to click the like button cos there isn't a 'Wow this 3D printing suff impressed the heck outa me' button..

 

Simply great, it's fantastic.
Greetings Harald

 

transit gearbox
the first of the 6 speeds - -one year only - -before they go to cable remote shifters (using this same gearbox)
use this combined shifter tower that bolts onto the top ( the cable version uses the same mounts for the twin cables)
it is situated in front of the shifter rail input - -which is in a similar position to your volvo.

 

@nobby what year should he keep an eye out for?
I'm not planning on a trip to the UK, so it won't help me, but it could help others.

 

I'm in pretty deep with the Volvo gearbox now, but I'm sure the Transit box will work for some.

I had a word with my machinist buddy yesterday, about making the splined spigot.
He can make the 6-spline, and weld it to the Volvo pieces, but he pointed out it would need heat treating afterwards.
Hmmmm - checked my rolodex, nobody on there for heat treating.
So I was wondering if I can get that 6-spline shaft from an old Ford gearbox.
My local flathead specialist can't help.
Anyone have an 6-spline output shaft from a 3-speed box ?

I've measured the OD as 1 3/16"
Any leads appreciated.

 

I’m of no help but that sure is cool!

 

Threads like this add to my inferiority complex. I still think I'm cutting edge when I make a cardboard template. Amazing!

 

Just found this thread. I like what you have been doing to the truck. You might do better to weld the Ford UJ to the volvo output flange. You do not need the special shaft then. I'm very impressed with the use of the 3D printer. Very cutting edge. What are you planning for the gearstick attachment to the selector shaft?

Watching with interest. Mart.

 

@Mart so happy to have you along for the ride.
It was your YouTube videos that made me realise that things like this were even possible.
Welding the Ford UJ to the Volvo output flange is a brilliant idea, and so much simpler than a heat-treated custom make spline
I'm going to work on that idea - watch this space.
As for the shifter - the guy I'm dealing with in Sweden modifies the original linkage so it sits in a "Ford location"
This piccie is of an M46, but the M47 I'm working with is very similar, just a minor length change on the external shifter rod.

I don't have the shifter or the bellhousing yet, my guy is ill - and I'm wishing him a speedy recovery.

 

To those that like what I'm doing with the 3D prints, and you are thinking to yourself - that is something you'd like to get it to. I'll give one piece of advice which is free.
Don't buy a printer !!
Well not on day one anyway.
Teach yourself how to draw the parts you'd like to make first.
If you can't draw it, you can't print it.
I taught myself Fusion 360 via YouTube videos, it is free for home use, and very powerful. But can be an absolute bear to use at time.
There are much better beginner alternatives out there such as SketchUP which again I believe is free.
The actual printing is the easy part

 

@moglite thanks for that. I have been following along.
I've also worked in a CNC machine shop and followed other builders who use it. Superfastmatt and Wesley Kagen are just two examples.

Those experiences have taught me you speak the truth. Also, the printers are going through generational changes like other computer stuff does, where each new iteration is leaps and bounds beyond the previous stuff. You want to select one that will hopefully have long term usefulness and support in the community even when it's outdated by the time you learn all it's features and limits.

 

mk7 transit rwd