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Technical what you usein'? thread sealer/anti seize

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by JD Miller, Feb 25, 2025.

  1. JD Miller
    Joined: Nov 12, 2011
    Posts: 2,515

    JD Miller
    Member

    My old can of McKay anti seize/ thread sealer is about done for.... Good stuff , but I guess its not made any more

    What are you guys using for thread sealant/ anti seize for cylinder head bolts etc etc etc


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    Last edited: Feb 25, 2025
  2. BJR
    Joined: Mar 11, 2005
    Posts: 10,732

    BJR
    Member

  3. deathrowdave
    Joined: May 27, 2014
    Posts: 4,298

    deathrowdave
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from NKy

    Blue Lock Tite for me
     
  4. JD Miller
    Joined: Nov 12, 2011
    Posts: 2,515

    JD Miller
    Member

  5. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 35,168

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Damn BJR, I hurt myself laughing and then had to explain to my wife why I was having a laughing fit and then she cracked up.
    Back to post 1 I'd have to go check what anti seize I have but I don't think that it is also a thread sealer. The last real use of anti seize for me has been painting some on the hubs of my 98 BMW 528I when I stuck the type 5 wheels on so I could get them off. Things get a little strange when you are beating and kicking on a wheel and tire to get it to break loose from the hub and a drugged up homeless dude ambles by to see what you are doing. Dissimilar metals and electrolysis show up big time there.
     
    BJR, Just Gary, SS327 and 1 other person like this.
  6. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 58,118

    squirrel
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    are you installing head bolts that need sealer, or head bolts that need anti-seize, or head bolts that need thread lubricant? I use whatever is appropriate for what I'm assembling....
     
  7. TexasHardcore
    Joined: May 30, 2003
    Posts: 5,393

    TexasHardcore
    Member
    from Austin-ish

  8. nochop
    Joined: Nov 13, 2005
    Posts: 4,305

    nochop
    Member
    from norcal

  9. goldmountain
    Joined: Jun 12, 2016
    Posts: 4,742

    goldmountain

    Not really fussy about what brand of anti-seize. My tip is on using it. That little brush on the lid just doesn't reach the bottom of the bottle. When it no longer reach, I cut the bottle in half and scoop up the remaining anti-seize into the next new bottle. Nothing gets wasted.
     
    X-cpe, hammer-time and Tickety Boo like this.
  10. brigrat
    Joined: Nov 9, 2007
    Posts: 5,963

    brigrat
    Member
    from Wa.St.

    Marine grade Anti-seize..............................................
     
    hammer-time likes this.
  11. JD Miller
    Joined: Nov 12, 2011
    Posts: 2,515

    JD Miller
    Member

    There ya go..... You know what Im talking about.....:D... Its also a thread Sealer . Looks like the same type stuff Ive been using
    https://armitelabs.com/product/lp-250/
    thread sealer.jpg
     
    Last edited: Feb 26, 2025 at 2:54 PM
  12. I buy never seize in the small tube, otherwise the brush type winds up getting contaminated with dirt.

    Sealer, I pick up ARP at my local speed shop.
     
    Tickety Boo likes this.
  13. woodiewagon46
    Joined: Mar 14, 2013
    Posts: 2,380

    woodiewagon46
    Member
    from New York

    I have the same can that I've had for several years but what I did was cut the brush attached to the lid off and use "dope" brushes available at any good hardware store. When I'm done using it I throw the brush away, that way it keeps the contents clean.
     
    bobss396 likes this.
  14. Harv
    Joined: Jan 16, 2008
    Posts: 1,310

    Harv
    Member
    from Sydney

    Every time I use antisieze from a jar or tube, I end up looking like the Tinman from the Wizard of Oz. Loctite make an antisieze in a stick (LOCTITE® LB 8060 - Henkel Adhesives). I gave it a try. It is easier to use without getting everwhere, but a lot more expensive (at least locally), and takes a lot more fiddling to get a decent smear on a bolt thread.

    Cheers,
    Harv
     
  15. big john d
    Joined: Nov 24, 2011
    Posts: 434

    big john d
    Member
    from ma

    wheel cleaning acid used at the car wash tends to make the part of the hub (no matter how much you rinse it you can not get the acid out from where it seeped behind the rim)
     
  16. 1971BB427
    Joined: Mar 6, 2010
    Posts: 9,350

    1971BB427
    Member
    from Oregon

    My antiseize and thread sealant are two different products. I use Permatex for both, but thread sealant for head bolts, and Permatex copper antiseize for places I don't want bolts/nuts to seize up.
     
  17. RmK57
    Joined: Dec 31, 2008
    Posts: 2,956

    RmK57
    Member

    A few drops of engine oil for head bolts. The engines I mostly work on have blind head bolts.
     
  18. Eric David Bru
    Joined: Feb 1, 2013
    Posts: 4

    Eric David Bru
    Member
    from Iowa

  19. wheeldog57
    Joined: Dec 6, 2013
    Posts: 3,629

    wheeldog57
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    @goldmountain I have the opposite problem with my anti seize tub and brush
    The brush is too long and slammed into the bottom forcing the brush to be folded over 90 degrees. The tub I have is big so I will likely be dealing with it for the rest of my days
     
  20. Hemi Joel
    Joined: May 4, 2007
    Posts: 1,610

    Hemi Joel
    Member
    from Minnesota

    I quit using the aluminum based anti-seize. The lead based and the copper based don't seem to get everywhere and coat you into a tinman look alike. The Armite LP250 lead based is good stuff.
     
    warbird1 likes this.
  21. jnaki
    Joined: Jan 1, 2015
    Posts: 10,500

    jnaki

    WHAT ARE YOU USING? World famous Loctite, the "original blue stuff."

    Hello


    Loctite has been one part of all of our tool boxes since we first started and that little tube found a home. The builders and racers at Reath Automotive used blue Loctite for all of their builds. So, they said if we were building modified motors, use the blue stuff sparingly, but on most everything. Most everything was something you might want to take off later-on for another rebuild.

    That bit of advice was great for us as our first motor was a long block 283 SBC. It was purchased from another small speed shop near our own neighborhood. It was a converted house located within Long Beach, but on the outskirts of Signal Hill oil fields. The house and a few others were still leftovers on this small dead end street that had those dinosaur oil pumpers going day and night. The speed shop was a small house with a nice driveway and open garage used as a workspace.

    As we walked into the main living room, it was converted to a glass counter and a wall full of shiny chrome parts. Other display cases had smaller parts and carburetors of all kinds. Then on one work counter still on another wall was the manifold section. The garage had an SBC motor set up with dual quads and a set of nice headers.

    We made an offer on a another set up long block SBC motor after they told us what was inside. It was less expensive than buying all of the separate parts. But, before we walked out, we purchased a 6 Stromberg carb set up for the SBC motor and a set of Hedman Headers. The owners knew us and they made a offer on a set of Chevy Truck heads + finned cover to us for buying all of those other race parts. So, yes, we bought the heads and went home happy.

    Jnaki

    The one thing they mentioned was that when they do engine work or work on other folks’ cars, they use Loctite. So, they also sold us several little tubes for us to finish building the 283 SBC motor in our own garage.

    For us, the first build of that 283 motor was a process and with 6 Strombergs, it ran good. Yes, we used the blue Loctite on everything. Luckily for us, the product worked, but 4 months later, my brother decided that he needed more power and that we needed to upgrade our 283 SBC motor. Luckily, the motor was tight, but came apart to start the larger cubic inch build, thank to Reath Automotive machine shop and parts department.
    upload_2025-3-1_4-4-1.png
    From a 6 carb SBC motor, it turned out to be this 292 c.i. blower spec motor, with all new parts, for a new 671 Isky Gilmer Supercharger Belt Drive in the same 40 Willys Coupe. Yes, we continued to use the blue stuff for all of the zillion parts we needed to assemble the new SBC motor, to get it running. YRMV
    upload_2025-3-1_4-1-27.png
    With this build, we approached the National Record of 12.40 with our 12.60 E.T.

    Note:
    For all of our toddler granddaughter days, anything we made or modified, like wheeled scooters or bikes had blue Loctite on all of the nuts and bolts. When she was on her scooter, we were following along in our Adult model of sidewalk scooters with a taller handle. All Loctite checked and suppled. No one wants to be interrupted with fixing parts that break or fall off when you are having a blast "scooting" around a huge park on the sidewalk.
    upload_2025-3-1_4-15-30.png [​IMG]




     
    1952henry likes this.

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