Featured Technical Oil pressure dropped to zero on start up...

^^^^HAAA^^^^

 

Uh, right. The stock Chevrolet oil pump is fine for 99% of the applications it’s used on. What about all the modifications people used to do on the Cleveland series? I agree the oil system on Windsors is pretty good, but how could the same company design the Windsor and the drop the ball on the Cleveland?

 

I take it you did not clean the bare block or heads. It’s why I assemble all engines I rebuild. I trust the machine work but have always questioned assembly practices. I hope you are sending photos of what you a find to the assembler.
As for the welded stand, as long as any required oil holes are open and clear, this is not a racing engine, a when you set the complete assembly on the head with no push rods checking it flat with no shafts put in a “bent” I feel it would be fine. If not, all the stands on that side need to be ground flat with a shaft thru them.

 

jimmy six, so as not to derail 32blownhemi's thread I'll answer your comments via P.M.

 

No, not the fuse... Although I didn't check it until you mentioned it. So looks like nothing is to simple for me Lol... Thank you!

 

Heres a couple photos of the problem, theres an adapter fitting that goes into thew block but it conflicts with the AllenHead Main Bolt, this is difficult to detect if you are working over the engine on an engine stand.


This photo shows the full assembly after machining some clearances on the adapter & pump.

 

It likely isn’t your issue but I had an similar thing happen a few years ago on my flathead. Always runs great till one day I started it and the oil pressure dropped to zero. Shocked, I jumped out of the car while still running and checked the direct fit gauge on the engine, no pressure. After shutting her down and changing my pants I pulled the dipstick and it was maybe a half quart low. No biggy.

I put it on the lift and drained the pan in preparation to drop it and diagnose the issue but before removing the pan @Pist-n-Broke suggested sticking an inspection cam in through
The drain hole. Much to my dismay the moron that assembled the engine (moi) failed to check the length of the dipstick against the picked up on the pump. My aftermarket dipstick was too long. It read full(ish) when the engine was very low on oil. I fixed the dipstick and haven’t had another issue. I hope yours is as easy to fix.

 

Update: Hooked up a mechanical oil pressure gauge, pulled the coil wire & the spark plugs. Turned it over twice for 3-4 seconds. No oil pressure at all showing on the gauge. Should I have primed the gauges oil line with oil? And there was oil on the spark plugs. Two of them just drenched it oil... Thank you! Bill

 

You aren't going to like this, but that probably should come out of the car to be checked over fully.
MAYBE you can pull the dist. and spin the pump drive, but you mentioned tight clearance.
The pump is in the pan, so if you can drop the pan, pickup and pump, you can check it off the car.
But at this point, you want to check more. If this was a 200 dollar get 'er goin' motor, you could try spinning the pump and thick additives, but not what you've got.

 

Thank you RodStRace! I was thinking it was probably more than I can take on. Not only knowledge but I have to move my '32 out of it's current location so nowhere to work on it at. Thanks! Bill

 

I don't know what type of oil pump drive those motors have but small block Chryslers were bad for shearing the tip off the drive, just a thought.

 

Dang, I hate it when that happens. This is going to hurt your Wallet. Sounds like it's over your qualifications, (no disrespect) Maybe go back to your builder, not that it's his fault but it did run pretty good for some time. Just remember, being Bad Ass and having Fun costs money. Don't let that stop you now.

 

Is big Al still with us? Lippy

 

Where are you located maybe someone can help. You should put your location in your name

 

Oil pressure guage with a copper line with oil in it is the way to go, electric gagues don't get the job done.

 

Sounds like you need to have the motor pulled to determine what is wrong with it. That sucks, but you can't risk damage to the motor and one should probably check all the bearings while they're at it.

 

I took it to a local guy whose worked on it before & he's really good. I lucked out cuz usually when I stop by to see about getting something done there's 6 cars in his shop & a two month wait. But this time only two cars & he said bring it on in! He said he'll first check the oil pump & the bearings. Not sure what this means but one of the spark plugs was drenched in oil. Rings? Oh Big Al passed away a couple of years ago & his sons had to sell all the engines,equipment, etc to close out the estate. For the oil gauge I used a braided stainless steel line. Wonder if I shouldn't use a mechanical water temperature gauge too? Thanks! Bill

 

Better tell the modern OEM's , haven't seen a mechanical oil pressure gauge for quite some time. My electric SW oil pressure gauge has been solid for 25 years , my OT DD has been good for 15 . Mech oil pressure gauges are great till the spray oil on your leg inside the car , same reason you don't run mech fuel pressure gauges in side a car .

 

Story time. Had a buddy back in my Air Force days, had Monte Carlo that he put a 396 into. Used a cheap oil gauge with the plastic line. He took a girl out on a date on a Friday night, nice girl, wore a snow white blouse. Jim wants to show off his new found power, so he gives it the beans. Nylon hose comes out of the fitting, spraying hot 10w30 all over poor Wanda and her pretty white blouse. Well, Jim got it all sorted out, and amazingly, Wanda came back for a second date. Last I heard, they were married. I guess the moral here is, if you want to weed out the women, use a nylon oil pressure hose!

 

Yep, those "nylons" can always get a guy in trouble! LOL

 

When using the hot heads 340/adapter oil pump, your example is the assembly issue I am aware of. Two other problems that have been reported are the drive tang on the oil pump wearing out (where it engages the intermediate shaft), and the bolts the hold the lower plate on the oil pump coming loose.

If you cannot prime the oil pump, it's a good time to pull the oil pan and check the oil pump out. If replacing, the M50 pump is in production now, and could possibly alleviate the issues noted above.

 

As mentioned, I would pull the sender and see if oil squires out with a little bump.
I would pull the intermidate shaft and check it. It is pain but can be done. I have done it to adjust distributor orientation. I used a wire with a little bend at the bottom to snag under the gear. Sure hope for good outcome.

 

I should be ok with this...