82 year old rusty frame

I hope you all filled up on the Holiday like I did, even if not your day of “Thanks”.



Leaf spring pads are for Mopars. Drag trucks have adjustable triangulated four links and anti roll bars.

 

About to go hit it some more. Got too cold and dark last night for a dude with a nasty cold to be grinding an important driveline piece without clear head and vision.

 

You may just be in love with your “work truck” or the idea of it when you polish its filthy free used Centerforce flywheel. I’m in the middle of the Dual Friction clutch. Rather pressure plate I suppose I’ll purchase a fresh disc.

 

Started rectifying this situation

 

I have maintained consistent daily small progress on “ Runnin Shine “. Most of its smalls with the weather turn. I have been slowly amending my vision of the intended details and finish. Lots of things getting pulled away from the patina club. I’m not going for perfection just more sparkle. Some de-rusting here, some scrubbing there. Some deep-cleaning here some prep for plating there.

This is only a sliver. Haven’t been getting snap shots of most these bits.

 

Nice tach!

 

Messed it up a third time rushing.



Fool me,
I kept using the stove to warm it up. I was using the temp gun to check it. But I lost track one time messing with kid’s three wheeler. We just had to go do donuts in a snowy field. Now look what it cost me.
It made some of the flake push to the surface or something. At a level that makes the previously smooth surface bumpy as all the warts on a witch’s face.

 

Luckily for me this license topper is deep on the lame list for the truck.
New redesign of the rear suspension negates a locating wishbone. So after a fairly long brain fart/stall I had an “ a duh “ moment. Did you know the that Henry cast offs often consist of a scrap piece of wishbone from the splitting action ?

unfortunately I was using the one from my Tudor’s original bones to hold the recycling container lid down in windy days. This went on for years before some dummo lost it. Which person is the dummo is a toss up I suppose. I don’t have another round this parcel of terra firma. Since I’m doing most serious cranking of the vise handle to the pennies.

I went and got one of these

then two of these little guys

 

now I’m working out how to old up the anti roll bar using shock dogbones for the links to the axle.

 

So 3 link rear with a Y link?

 

For the last 15 plus years of planning it had always been that I was making a triangulated 4 link out of split bone parts with regular ol’ball joints at the to-frame ends of them.
With the gifting of the 9” rear end. I’ve been reevaluating most everything. So now I’m going all in on a run-of-the-mill generic 4 bar drag race style. However I’m using sections of radius rods with ball joints and neoprene bushed threaded ends for all of the rear locating and or swinging components. No Heimjoints will be harmed during the filming of this movie. The only fancy part is at the to-frame points. The mounting plates with the 7d. taper options. They too will be locatable per the latest drag tech. Like this in mechanical theory but not in appearance.



The axle housing will employ common position choices at the bar end mounting plates. I’ve rough cut out already plates to brace the housing but want to drill plenty of holes to keep with that theme. Fishing right at the edge of “jumping the shark” on that one. First hopefully I will change the housing backside from the dimpled era. To a smooth round back style. Have to stay a step back from those strict 1964 and prior restriction lines instated by “ The Man “
I had even wanted to go with a more cup car inspired GM C-10 or whatever style some too. I figured it would not have the best drag action results for my tastes. Chromoly bars are rather affordable if not cheap. I can always swap them out later. For now though I’m willing to sacrifice the hefty weight of the Henry steel for an, even if far stretched more traditional vibe. I believe the full adjustability will help it function once dialed at a respectable level. I also can’t help kinda giggling about pulling it off with the transverse leaf spring and lever shocks. The road car shocks probably won’t be up to task. I am going to rebuild the soon. I am even pondering the idea of adding some adjusters for rebound if not compression. This stuff is in my wheelhouse from motocross, atv, and street bike racing. Heck in 97-98 my roadrace bike of choice had basically a lever rear shock unit. The spring was separate unit from the dampening unit. I’ve dabbled in this adding adjustments before and recently had done some to my 80-81 YZ465 for vintage racing.
Should be quite an entertaining adventure I’m sure. Stay on the lookout.

“ oh yeah ? Whatta you make’m outta ? “

“ organic matter … manure “

 

Currently the axle housing strengthening fabrication is to be in this vain. Please ignore the topmost poor early wishbone ideas.

I’ve chosen to add the reinforcement in these locations. To minimize the appearance of far too modern style of alterations. Ideally most of this will be hidden from view by the leaf-spring pack and crossmember if not the petrol container. The Plymouth ellipse shaped antique tank has been nixed in favor of a red aluminum cube style. I’ve let a couple vintage aluminum Roundy Round car filler necks slip my grasp. There’s plenty out and about and I’ll surely snag one. I will point this to the “wrong side” of the road behind the driver position to attach to the fill cap neck in the bed side.

 

One of these…

have to sprinkle little clues here and there to maintain that darn Holman n Moody theme.

 

Very early in the way back machine. I had purchased a column drop and steer tube. It was some time before I learned that in my young pup naiveté that I picked up a 33-34 style not a 32. It was quite economical and also quite in good original condition. It fits the more patina’d feel I wanted before. I couldn’t seem to bring myself to sacrifice it to the truck. With needing a rebuild, shine up, and most likely extending to have a more racey wheel position. It would be better serving in another build. I had a very, very, very rusty original 33-34 out of “Hubba Hubba”. I got myself a thump on a log idere here.

Heads a scratching out there ?





I was on my with this and was still making further detail plans to get it closer to a 32’s. The plan was to weld on the ear or ears? after I found the proper length it would need to be. I would carve this out of a hunk very close to a 32’s. It was difficult making peace with the awkward ignition key placement. Yes I considered ditching that key placing all together.
Then I ended up with a later truck drop.

 

This two began heavy reshaping.

Much sizing down has and continues needed done. I have failed to drag my sorry butt across to the far edge of town for a suitable filler rod. To put the hacked off and inverted parts back on in a better space then my crooky noggin. This truck drop I will change the leav’her’lone on/off to a 32 re-pop and change the dash mount (ears?) to appear 32ish.

“ Lugs, who’s driving number ten ? “

 

I love the 4 link with a traverse spring idea! With some figuring it can turn and go straight.
We used ERW tube on my son’s drift truck. Bushings at the axle and helms at the frame. Works good and strong enough to take a sold hit to the wall that bent a steel wheel and tore the panhard off. Like tore the wall of the 8.8 Axle, not the weld…

 

I wanted to post this build upgrade n update when I might have pulled this further together. Still doing some research so as to know the range of differences to pull from and have this gel. I also became undecided on key piece as well as waiting for the arrival of appropriate surplus aircraft bolts and such.
I stumbled online into the details by owner/restorer of a Holman Moody Bobby Allison Grand National Torino. This was my first exposure to the oil cooler specifics for those cars. I had seen them in pics yes, but never honed in on thinking them over. I had already put my thinking cap to the use of remote oil filters per HM and that got me here.

Well I went and quickly, surprisingly, located a Harrison 10 row cooler used in Continental aircraft. The ones I’ve seen in HM cars and GT40 s are a slightly larger 13 row. This is very similar and since really the truck doesn’t require one not to mention as we know there’s less engine compartment space in a 32 to sacrifice. After all we generally would concede the Galaxy , Fairlane, etc, heck mustang. Is a little more portly up front. The HM applications of these coolers evolved through their tenure. I am contemplating an amalgamation of sorts. I most certainly need to cherry pick the version of things that I A: find nifty, and B: are hard walls I can’t easily overcome, in regards to making it a believable sell.
I need to fabricate the top plate slash lid. I have looked at magnesium plate stock, run of the mill aluminum, and currently I’m considering should I simply cast my own so I can have the HM raised initials of the coolest versions.
I will also add the square AL bar stock brace on both sides. I will further make a mounting bracket that hopefully holds the remote oil filter and will hopefully hold it steady off to the drivers side far upward corner behind the radiator. They routed the oil through these in a few different ways as things progressed. I first thought I would simply go with the as designed rout like Continental and HM early on. The oil would flow into one half’s rows. Down to the other end then back up through the remaining half topside. A later revision HM employed was adding an AN boss and fitting at that far capped end. They then made the oil flow route upward though all the rows and out the top plate/cap. I’m leaning towards this approach now. I wonder though, why did the make the oil flow upward against gravity ?
I am as well ignorant to the requirements of hose size and its effects on oil flow and or pressure. Stayed tuned, I’m on it.

Oh, I had to spend quite a few hours meticulously straitening loads of bent and smashed fins to the best I could get. Luckily this type of work is couch and TV applicable.

 

Dug these out of a hibernation den today. They were filthy and lonely. That happens when one doesn’t practice healthy hygiene while cooped up for a decade.

Still working on putting together the square dancin boots. These four shoes go strictly with “ Sunday Best “ for Church or court appearances.

 

Great color on those wheels. You wouldn't happen to know the name of that color, or is it a custom mix?

 

It’s Rustoleum Kona Brown gloss over a black sealer coat. Rattle can, I hoard the stuff cause it looks like my favorite Dakaware color. It’s perfect for representing the early years. I don’t suspect we’ll be seeing it on any electronic “cars” anytime soon. Here it is in a little sun though. It really changes in some light and angles.

I don’t think it’s the same as mandarin maroon.

 

Just look at all this seat chaos! Simply so I could save 20-25 pounds and get more period correct imagery.
Still in process unfortunately but close. The front face is now angled from the top edge back like a proper seat should. I shortened it an inch and this made the top more arched. The framework is now shorter as well with more angle applied. So the side view will have the seat appearance correct. Rounding front corners large radiuses today. I made it taper part of the way down the sides to match the angles of the doors. How to make each outermost spring have a kink then taper in hasn’t been worked out yet. The new base is plywood(lighter) as are all the base trusses. I laminated plywood together and added oak veneer I had laying around for them. Then I age stained and shellacked it all. Just in case I make it flip up. I wanted to have her look at least a little old. The Sharpie work will be covered. The base didn’t turn out as nice. Yesterday I torched the new galvanized countersunk slot drive wood screws heads and dipped in dirty motor oil. They attach the base to the frame work along with liberal glue pouring. I order some repair wire and kit stuff to fix some broken tie together things. I picked up the correct color upholstery thread. Not only did I need to reshape the material. It was paramount that I add a piping border edge around the top. Now I’m all refresh studying on techniques for a mild spruce up to the ass to vinyl contact point.

Sorry these pics are loaded in poor order.

 

You have to be a little off if you waste the time to paint your used clutch pressure plate. Even if it is a quick sloppy job. I couldn’t allow myself a speck of dignity though if it was Chebby yuck orange.

Then again it could be I had extra paint left from the exhaust system.

 

I have done that a time or two. New disc and some hemi orange and you have a new clutch!

 

Rounded corners and I put a bend in each side spring for the taper.

 

Not only is this a difficult fit I thought of leaving the welds exposed under the paint. Giving it an old school race purpose look. Seeing as the extended fill tubes w/gussets will have showing welds. Sometimes primitive sets the right vibe.

 

Thinking about using the Burgundy vinyl from my seats I the tuck and roll sections. Then going darker to oxblood on the surrounding areas. But fear even the tuck n roll is too fancy.
I am considering this marbled types since the carpet is a two tone pile of dark and lighter maroon.

 

Hopefully this cheap marine carpet can match that faux leather. I got this cents a foot stuff from Menards to go behind the seat and on the back cab panel. I don’t know yet if it will go higher than the seat yet. Maybe but over some sound deadening.

 

I found that the lower section of the cab, floor, door panels make a big difference in noise. I still think I should pad the firewall and roof. Not sure if the upper back of the cab would make much of a difference.

 

Do you have the firewall insulation in the 34 ? I don’t recall from your thread. The repops are prices I don’t like. I bought a few things to make my own version for the Tudor. I made sure to get enough to attempt something similar for the truck. My thoughts are the firewall and floor have to be the most important. I got thick kinda heavy “Matt” to go under the carpet material. Then maybe the kickpanels(especially if ya got headers on ghe others side,lol)are a small step. However the doors and roof can be resonating rattle traps.
I wonder if glass or lexan is acoustically superior to one another.

 

Wyatt. I used a stick on Proform sound deadener on the floor. It’s asphalt and doesn’t absorb water. The cab back got stick on duct insulation. It’s foil backed and works great. I don’t have anything on the firewall but I probably should. The Masonite door cards with vinyl on them do a good job of making the doors quiet.