The cobbler machines such as Singer 29K are interesting ones. Very optimized to do ONE job, and that job is sewing in hard to reach places - such as a leather boot. To do that, many compromises were made, unfortunately meaning the machine isn't really good at other jobs than the quick n dirty boot repairs that don't have to look great. It has a long, narrow arm making it possible to get into deep, narrow places. It has the ability to sew any direction. It feeds using only a "walking foot". To make arm as narrow as possible the parts inside it has to be small. This means the bobbin is very small, holds very little thread, and can only sew short distances between bobbin changes. Fine for a 4" repair on a boot. The problem gets worse the thicker thread you use, and the machine can't even handle as thick wire as you may want for many jobs. The feeding foot has coarse teeth on the bottom to make sure it gets a descent grip. This often marks leather you sew, fine for repairing a pair of old, worn boots, not great for producing new items. The feeding isn't great at consistency, stitch length and straightness can be an issue. Again, fine for repairs, not for production. So, very interesting machines, and very good at the one job they're made for and a few very similar jobs where getting access is the main issue. The basic design for shoe repair machines have been the same for probably close 150 years, so they got it right from the start and the compromises they made had to be made. But being a good machine for that job doesn't make it a good machine for anything else - as many have found out after buying one for their leather hobby projects. They end up with ugly leather damage from the feeding teeth, are unable to sew as thick material as they want, can't use as thick thread as they really need... What you really want is a machine with compound feed, triple feed, or whatever you choose to call it when feet, needle and feed dogs move in unison. You may be able to get the job done with a common bottom feed only machine and a large amount of patience, but you WILL be fighting it some part of the time, and you will have to keep limitations in mind when designing the upholstery to make sure you don't make mistakes like causing thicker bunches of material than the machine easily gets across.
I have a few of the 29k s and they are Heavy and awesome machines. The one is a Singer and the other is a Sutton like a 29k4 with the handle in front. They are great for making tool bags , holsters ,backpacks ,wallets and small items. The problem with the machine is the thicker your materials are the stitch length decreases. Plus a super small bobbin. This isn’t an issue when you’re sewing the same materials. In fact I liked the 29k so much I bought a leather worker to sew even thicker leather up to 3/4 of an inch and sews with three the size of string! The 29k is what I use to make tool bags with my leather scraps from other projects So sewing a car seat your sewing two layers then 4 layers then 2 layers then 6 layers all in the same panel. This is the reason for a walking foot. So @nochop i too recommend a walking foot or a triple feed machine. I see them listed for under 1k and seen them as cheap as 400 bucks. My walking foot is an old German Pfaff 1245L and it’s an animal and will sew thru your finger if not careful. It’s got an old clutch motor and works fine just don’t have a heavy foot. My other is a consew with a servo motor and it’s ok but not necessarily needed just a convenience. I personally would look for an older machine like a singer consew pfaff or Alder . They are easy to work on and very interesting to fix and play with.
[QUOTE=" So @nochop i too recommend a walking foot or a triple feed machine. I see them listed for under 1k and seen them as cheap as 400 bucks. My walking foot is an old German Pfaff 1245L and it’s an animal and will sew thru your finger if not careful. A buddy of mine did a lot of custom upholstery work. He used an old Pfaff like the one I bought. We were talking one day and I told him I'm a bit wary of getting a finger in the needle because the machine appears to have enough power to sew through it. He held up his left index finger and said you are right. Then he said "do you know the first thing you do when that happens?" He then yanked his hand quickly back towards him. He said it pulled the needle right through the end of his finger. It took a long time to heal.
A domestic sewing machine has the power to do that. I figured that out when I was getting an old machine back to work, running it watching something of the internal mechanics instead of where I put my fingers... And let me add some to what happens: When the needle goes down through the finger you indeed pull your hand away. This bends the needle, causing the needle tip to miss the opening it's supposed to go through in the needle plate, so it hits the plate and shatters the needle. If you pulled the finger free as your friend you're fine, if you still have a piece of needle in the finger you better hope one end still sticks out so you can grab it and pull it out. "Sewing" through fingers can absolutely happen. But I have a feeling most people only does it once, painful mistakes tend to be very educational. (Once in ten years is plenty for me anyway.)
I did that ten years ago, the machines were worn out and took a lot of set up time to get sewing. I haven’t seen an upholstery class in years
Now who ever thought sewing is dangerous but your fingers are right there for the opportunity. @nochop i would check out https://www.sailrite.com/learn/tips-tricks https://www.sailrite.com/learn/diy-projects/rv-auto-projects?page=1 The boat cushions are a great project pleat the tops and use welting. Plus you can use it to kneel on when installing your interior. Plus you get to learn a few techniques for sewing seats and panels. I also would sew simple parts bags with a zipper to get to know the machine stitch’s or lengths,changing bobbins and its capabilities..
I made a vinyl cover for a winch on the front of my truck with a home machine I picked up at an auction for cheep, still have it. I think if I really wanted I could do an interior with it.
Definitely get one with a walking foot.One with reverse is nice too! I have a Consew 226r with a walkinfg foot and reverse.
I gave up on my local upholstery guys after waiting over a year to get my stuff back. A few friends in the business back east suggested a Juki 1541. I looked at them (during covid) but no one had them in stock. The one company that took my order said it would be about 3300.00 for the machine. After 6 months they cancelled the order and said they had no idea when they would be back in stock. 2 days later I found a close to new one on EBAY about 25 miles from my house and was able to get it for 1,000.
Exactly, I talked to a local upholstery guy and it was like he wouldn’t listen to any of my ideas or color choices. It was like he was doing his car.
I also took a sewing class at a local tech school but I feel like I learned more in one day playing with my own machine in my shop and following along to videos on the internet than I did in months of tech school classes. Their machines were different than mine, they threaded differently and they weren't focused on automotive upholstery. Those classes only lasted an hour or two at a time, once a week. It seemed like a good idea, but in the end was kind of a waste of time. I personally wouldn't do it again.
I slowed this one way down with crap I had laying around in the pile. Vented rotor, scrap, I keep v-belts everywhere. Pillow blocks, steel wheels, more crap. It took this speed demon down to a turtle’s pace. Those factory foot pedals suck. So I put the old switcher roo and placed the gas pedal out front. Control is what you need while creating. I did another if you want , I’ll show that one too. One is for thick operations, the other for thin materials.
This old Singer is not a Walking Foot. It works well with thinner materials, but she’ll plow through and pull vinyl with 1/4 inch scrim glued to it all day, but that’s her limit. I used more crap on this one too. You’ll want wheels on everything you own. I had to slow this one down as well. Both are at the same table height. I can jump back and forth as needed. I work outside so weather dictates. It’s no big deal slowing these mo- fo down. Plan ahead so you can tilt the machine to replace the bobbin, you’ll be doing a lot of that.
This is the heavy duty one. Good price, because it didn’t work. Had to do a repair on one of the internals.
Save yourself some time and effort. https://www.amazon.com/upholstery-Walking-Industrial-Machine-Lockstitch/dp/B01BJFQKT4
When ever my wife busts out the sewing machine I head out of the house cuz there is going to be a lot of cussing and yelling ! But we've done a couple of boat interiors. And we're still married.
My wife runs an upholstery/ heavy weight sewing shop she has good luck with Consew 206's. Even though we have local repair shops i've been able to handle any maintenance; that said if you buy a used machine its best if they can demonstrate the function to you.We have bought some used machines that needed repair before they could go to work even though they where sold as working. Keep looking for a machine there are lots out there. The cheap $100-150 variable speed servo motors are a nice upgrade from the old clutch motors. There are some inexpensive walking foot machines on Amazon ranging from portable consews and sailrights to table mounted Vevors I wouldn't be afraid of any of them. https://www.amazon.com/Consew-CP206...cphy=9209068&hvtargid=pla-1422733187964&psc=1
I have a Consew 206, walking foot machine and the damn thing will punch through 3/8" resin impregnated scuba webbing for tactical gear. Servo motor powered machines are nice because they give you a ton of control versus having to slip a foot clutch. Haven't tried upholstery with it yet as my build is nowhere near that step.
The Jalopy Journal
