That looks like tubing, not pipe? You don’t show the end, how far away it is from the kink? My tubing flaring tool has dies that I can clamp a piece of tubing in to straighten out if I over-bent or to straighten a bend. If it’s close to the end, you could straighten it out and run a piece of solid bar stock inside the tubing to work the kink out from the inside. It works on new tubing, yours looks a little old and crusty. The easiest way to repair it would be to replace it.
The crease /kink doesn’t look nice on the points , any attempt to straighten will cause thin spots on the crease . Why is it so essential to save it?
Good luck! I'd be reforming a new piece of cutting out the bend and adding a fitting. That is not coming out, at least not to my standards.
I tried to make a really tight 3/8" bender for a gas line off of a sbc fuel pump once. Of course, the line flattened out badly. For the heck of it, I put a 5/16" ball bearing in it and adapted it to my grease gun. The grease pushed that bearing through the tube and made it round again. It didn't alter the radius of the bend, either. I never used it, just wanted to see what would happen. Gary
I can take a guess , Just saying if inverted fitting & thinking out side the box , Would not be hard to attach a Zirk to. , For what ever Op was trying to take most of Kink out , massage , then add solder, JB Weld , shape , file , sand & paint , Polish What ever ! I really doubt that little kink reduce's that much volume.
^^^^^I already had the flare nut on the end of the tubing so my home made bender would start the bend as close to the nut as possible. I just had to screw it to a female flare to 1/8" pipe adapter. Gary
It can be done. Is it worth it; probably not, but the experience can be valuable just to gain skill. Forget about the grease gun. This can be done with blacksmith/gunsmith skills. In the 18th Century this fall under the skill of a “mechanic”. You’ll have to soften it with heat. Do not quench, if you quench it will harden. If you try to work it hard it will break. The edges of the crease will need to be tapped with a tiny hammer as it is straightened. This is very, very tedious. After it is worked reasonably straight, a straight rod of small diameter with the working end rounded, can be inserted in the tube to straighten the dent. This round ended rod is a mandrel. You’ll need to make several mandrels of progressive sizes. It may be better it work it red hot. A big caution is not to get a mandrel stuck in the tube. Eventually it can be straightened but the risk of failure is high. As said the best bet is to replace that 3/8 line. I helped repair the pump tube on a 1920s Coleman lantern that had a kink in the tube. Wooden mandrels were used to work out the kink. It can be done and is a good skill set for rare stuff like, antique rifle magazine tubes....stuff like that. For a working fuel or brake line.... Replace it.
The Jalopy Journal
