Having some thoughts about buying a Winters quick change rearend. My concerns are about how robust they actually are. I'm a 9" Ford guy, and I'm wondering if they are up to handling an engine with 500/600 lbs/ft of torque and some wide tires.....but in a reasonably light car (32 Cpe). I know the ones with angular gears aren't as strong as the straight cut gears and I don't think I would care for the whining noise. What have you experienced...............
They claim the V8 is good to 500 HP+ and the Champ much much more. Stick with the straight cut spur gears if applying lots of horse power. I have lost count how many Winters V8 & Champ rears I've sold with no problems. I've personally used several of both with good results. Gary at Cornhusker Rod & Custom
There are a few guys using them for drag racing, not very many. It is a really neat concept, and they work great for land speed racing and sprint cars, where traction is usually limited, and getting just the right gear ratio is really important.
Ran a Hallibrand Champ rear in my sprint car for many years with over 500 hp. On a tacky track the car would pull the front end so I was putting a lot of torque through the rear axle. Admittedly it was a real light car.
I would have to ask around but I am sure you can look it up, but unless I'm mistaken all your Late Model Stock and Late Model round track cars run some type of quick change. They make 5 - 600 HP depending on the class. They haven't used a 9in in years.
Winters makes quick change rears for many racing classes. But if you look at the hot rod category they list the steel tube and bell V-8 rears for 600 HP. The steel tube and bell Champ at 1,000 HP. I assume for the street you will not run a spool, so I would think you most likely would not hurt a V-8 rear in a light car. Usually in a light car with lots of HP getting it hooked is the hard part. If you have any concerns about the helical gears, give them a call.
I've got one in a street legal car. Been there for some time. Although right now, It's not in the 500 hp range, it WAS bought for that. A couple of phone calls to them and to Speedway Engineering (SoCal). I bought without concern. Mike
I have a Frankland with a locker in my truck behind a pretty stout 463" Pontiac. I'm not worried about the rearend. Maybe drag racing with slicks I'd be concerned.
I've got a Frankland with Jones magnesium bells going in my 500hp 1960 Falcon gasser with a Mopar small block and faceplated a833 4speed. 12 inch wide street legal stickies out back. I've never been afraid of it's durability, until I decided this year to include the 4 speed. I'm somewhat leery, now. It'll never see a prepped track---late night street stalking only (aside from cruising). It does have a full spool, just because I'm stupid like that. I know they are plenty beefy and the dirt burner circle track guys do see a ton of shock load from 900hp loading and unloading the tires over and over. but that's not at 2900 to 3100 pounds. We'll just have to see... -rick
Do you have any other pics of how you anchored that wishbone to the snout? I'd love to run one in my 4 linked falcon on the street, but: A. Dont know how streetable a wishbone is B. Dont know how to mount to the front retainer I've seen the top mounts for circle trackers to mount pull bars, but those are different forces than a wishbone. What did you use? -rick
You do in a sprint car between races as the track slicks off. The gears are quite hot when the car comes off the track.
I have, but only while searching for my perfect ratio. Turns out a engine with near 600lbs of torque in a 2700 lb vehicle doesn't need much gear. I'm at a 3.26 right now. Takes longer to dump the oil back in than it does to swap gears. And used gears are dirt cheap.
I put a champ in my roadster when I built it. Just a street car but I’ve side stepped the clutch a time or two and like a Timex, it takes a licking and keeps on ticking…. Well, keeps on whining My Flathead only puts out 300+ Hp. Don’t judge.
Speaking of change gears (who was?), decades ago I borrowed a lower pair to use with my Cyclone at the drags. I broke the back plate. I didn't know that pairs came in different widths, and these were too narrow and slapped the back plate. The replacement Cyclone part had not been drilled for the 6 studs. That's how they did them back then -- and maybe the cause of the threads sticking out the sides of the banjos (correction -- not the banjos, but the housing sides) in a couple of places. I'd imagine that the present setups are drilled in a more accurate manner.
Nice! Btw BB, how far apart are the 2 torque arm brackets on your qc at the axle? That kind of setup would simplify things under the Whatever a lot! You can see the linkage it has now.
Buy the Quickchange and forget about it. You don't have enough 'power' to hurt it. I prefer the larger units, so there is never a question. Either Gary (@krylon32 ) or I can help you spec it out. Repeating what I have said many times before, "Horsepower won't kill a Quickchange. Torque, Sticky Tires, and dropping the hammer 'might'. It's all about the shock loads!!!!!! Jamie Frankland told me that the strength of a QC falls between a Ford 9" and a Dana 60. Mark Williams says the 9" is stronger than the Dana! I started building QCs because to build a 9" with some of the better parts was about the same cost. Add in your first ring and pinion to get a different ratio and the Quickie deal gets even better.
Rick - No, no detail shots of the wishbone to frame pictures. A. As long as the wishbone is firmly braced, as mine is (store bought), I feel VERY safe with it. I've done some hard cornering with it, with no problems, noises, or other concerns. B. Front retainer ? Don't understand the question. C. Here's the slider mount. I have aluminum spacers to take up the extra space between the rod end and the bracket. Hope these help some. Mike
Thanks! A. Do you remember what company you bought it from? B. I was referring to the front bearing plate, as i've seen panhard mounts incorporated (which wont clear my 4 link) and I thought your slider mount bolted to that plate. C. My quicky came with 2 side plates just like your-except in softer aluminum because they pointed up and only had a tension load from a pull bar with a spring, and didn't see side loads. This is really helpful. I'd love to figure out how to run a Watts in with the 4 link but a wishbone is my next best thing i think. Its a gasser going back on the street- so 75mpg Highway curves and slower turns while cruising the square is the only cornering it will see. No slaloms for her at all. thanks again, -rick
So Many companies use a Hp # Trans & rear . I Feel Torque is what Needs to be Looked @ , With most Tq To Weight & Traction When you Side Step Clutch or Leave on Trains Brake , 5,000 plus Rpms. With 500- 600ish Tq .. Then its Hard to believe how much a U joint takes , thats small , Then you think its the Leverage spreading from Pinion to Ring to Axle to Axle Flange to Stud's then Suspension components
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