Am trying to help a friend via phone with a steering issue on his F1. It was totally rebuilt and has been driven but has always had steering issues. Has been in various shops and has everything new or rebuilt. Specs-dropped axle with spacers for draglink, new springs,etc-15" radials rebuilt box and column. Wanders a lot and when turning the wheel it raises and lowers the truck and the spring shackle moves back and forth a bit. Any suggestions appreciated
Maybe have him take pics and send to you to post up. I’ll bet someone will spot something or ask for additional pics.
Just me ( not an Expert ) not at happy with the relation between the steering box and the steering arm. I would go as far as changing the box location. Yes easier said than done Yeah you know.
I’m thinking not enough caster. I can’t make out the tilt in the pics. If it’s all over the road I’d be checking for positive caster and no more than 1/8 inch of toe in.
The lifting when you turn says excess caster. Parallel leaf springs rigs don't usually like or need as much caster as a Ford Cross leaf does to drive right down the highway. I'm wondering if that bent drag link is actually working as intended and is not actually working as if it were still straight and way off kilter. Meaning, is the actual force from pitman arm to steering arm still working in a straight line even with the shape of the drag link. The more I think about it I'd bet that is what is actually happening it talks a good race but is it actually doing what it was intended to do or is it just pretending to? I'm thinking that Sid bends the steering arm down to put the drag link as level as possible and still clear the dropped axle.
Those tie rod spacers are hoky. Change those out for some dropped tie rod ends. The drag link ends look kinda rough in the photo. Were they rebuilt? If those are loose that could be a source for the wander. Also, do the wheels have a lot of offset? That also introduces opportunity for tire scrub issues. What is the caster angle? I don’t know what it’s supposed to be for a parallel spring axle, but someone else here will know.
To find out if it's Caster related a simple test would be to just remove the wedges and drive it. If it changes for better or worse, you know where to start fine tuning.
I have seen those tie rod spacers before. They came with a tapered insert so the bolt would seat properly in the steering arm hole. If they are there, I'd be fine using them however as stated dropped tie rod ends are a better choice today. Without the inserts the through bolt will wander in the hole before moving the tire. not good! Even if that is the case it doesn't explain the movement in the frame when turning the wheel, that's a Caster thing.
What they all said. shims/caster, the drag link angles and ends, steering arm attachment. What's up with the tie rods ends? Adapters to drop the tie rod?
If its raising the truck when turning the steering wheel I would try less caste dropped axles exaggerate caster. Next if you went to Heim joints and lost the spacers could you get the tie rod above the springs?
The frame "jacking" is likely because of the extreme scrub radius. Which is likely causing the wander as well. Maybe the kingpins need a shot of grease also. The steering arm hoop needs to be heated and bent down so the drag link is level again. I wouldn't personally use those tie rod drop things either Looks like it was thrown together by someone going for looks not function
Sounds like he has a good bit of caster in his setup. However, a lot of caster (positive) make a vehicle very stable and does not tend to wander. Toe out on a straight axle or a lot of play in the suspension will cause a wander.
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