Figured I'd do a build thread on my second build while I travel for work and guys saying theres not enough build threads. First build was a model a phaeton and now I'm building a little 28 pickup. Picked up the pickup with my pickup at the Long Beach Model T swap. Glad it fit lol I then put it on the side of my house for about two years so I didnt get sidetracked with my phaeton build. Anyone know of a Max's harness shop? Its got a faint patina lettering, wondering if anyone knows what it was or familiar with it? Plan is to do a 60s/70s style hot rod. I'm gonna leave it in patina paint just cause I would like to use it as an actual truck, as I sold the silver tacoma when we had my son. Want it to be a nice little parts hauler and not be worried about dinging it up. Going with a triangulated 4bar in the rear, four bar up front, with a 9", 4 speed, and a 350 chevy built by a good friend who's on here @Lumpy63.
First step was to fix some deep pits on the frame, then box the frame and replace the crossmember with a roadster supply unit. Colin and I got to work on welding in the new crossmember and boxing it. We didnt use a frame jig but I had some weights at home that I brought over to colins and just used jack stands while we welded the boxing plates in. A few weeks later, we got to narrowing the 9" I bought and then bought some axles from Quik Performance. Rear will be 55" wide wheel mounting surface to WMS. Using 2.5" BS real rodders kidneys.
Got the frame back to my garage and started setting up the motor into position. Went with a champion 3 row radiator and a ford falcon fan. Then setup the rest of the suspension. Went with the Classic Street rod MFG four bar setup with aldan coil overs in the rear so itll drive nice. Also got the trans mount all setup in there. Its a speedway bolt on deal that I just welded to some 2x4 steel tubing and clearanced the tubing for my tailshaft and driveshaft.
With the chassis all tacked together and mocked up, I moved the body to the frame to dial in pedals and steering. Going with a vega box. Clearanced the firewall but cutting it up and moving sections of it around. Then gonna have a removeable plate similar to badshifters so I can remove the dizzy if need be. I got speedway buckets and built a little frame to attach the seat to. Using a 30" Limeworks column and a deep dish 14" steering wheel. Using RJAYs hanging pedals which I really like, and theyre a great product. Heat and bent the pedals to move closer to the steering column. Gonna need as much room as possible for my gas pedal.
Body on and wood kit sorta in place. Found a set of fenders and hood for a pickup which were also green but just a little darker shade. I really kinda like the way I think it'll look though.
Trying to use as much of the floor wood as possible. Body back off the frame and then started to run the exhaust. A pic of the complete exhaust ran to the back. I have 18" glass packs from Magnaflow. Then I unbolted all the front and rear suspension components to finsih weld the crossmembers, and four bar brackets. A pic I thought was funny of the car just blown apart looking like a big model kit haha
What was the reason for replacement of the front crossmember with a Roadster Supply unit? Trying to learn. I'm so glad you shared your work on your frame, it helped me a lot already.
I thought the rust was more than I'd like, but Colin suggested to get the roadster supply crossmember because it has built in 7deg of caster, where the stock one has almost none. A win/win for $90 and didnt take long to get squared up and welded in.
are you going full fender ?,,if so, what are you gonna do about the bed....or do you have the sub frame...also if you don' t have running board brackets i got a set you can have...might even have front fender braces..
Thanks for the info! I was thinking of doing the adjustable perches but that crossmember with the built in caster looks really good.
Thanks for the kind words everyone. I have a pickup bed, and the body is really solid minus the bottom of the doors so plan to patch those. Might try to source a new tailgate for the bed eventually, but overall doesnt seem too bad. As for fender braces, I have a hard time telling them apart and am not sure if theres a front and rear running board difference or not? Or if theres a difference between left and right? All four of mine look generally the same. Gordy
I'll put a closer eye on what I got and if they are differant i'll get back...but think they are all the same
fronts are differant from the rears but work on either side...rears are lt & rt so there are 3 differant ones..still dark in vegas...but gonna guess the rears are a little shorter with the angle of theframe...i'll measure a little later...
running board brackets,ok... fronts are about 2'' longer...and rears where they mount to the frame have a lt & rt angle
non of my business,just a bullshit post, but.. i painted my self into a corner doing a simulare build...where you have the coil over shock mounts tacked,,,,might be wise to move them in about an inch each side so when you go to mount the bed there is room for the sub frame...but /I have no idea how you plan to do it.. but was something I had to do over..that and I shaved the top of the rear cross member to the level of the bottom of the wood boards so the bed floor was flat..
The Jalopy Journal
