Take a 55 Ford (naturally) and drop in a SOHC 427 (dual quads or maybe FI) with a 4 or 5 speed Lenco trans. IF you put in a Ford 9 in. with 3.00:1 gears it 'should' totally shred any standard size rear tires....right ?! Sooo if you put a more aggressive set of gears like 4.56:1 it would TOTALLY shred any rear tires So ...what's the answer ? Swap in a small block Shivel-lay like everybody else? Tub-it-out and put monster meat in the back? OK....which gear set ?! 6sally6 PS Can I go fer a ride ?!!
have you ever driven a 700 hp car? It might not be quite what you expect. This set of slicks lasted about 120 runs, they never got shredded. Street tires also survived about 20k miles, no shredding, just wear from going down the highway.
If you were to take any car and drop serious horse power into it with almost any transmission that could hold up to the power, you could shred tires. With modern tech, big horse power isn't that hard to get. Getting it to where you can use the power, and still drive the car around safely is the trick. Knowing what the car can and can't do and driving it accordingly is the goal. The shoebox with the 427 wouldn't really be able to handle like a similarly powered modern muscle car. Not that it wouldn't be worth building or fun, but you have to understand what it can and can't do. If all you want is a tire shredder then no worries you are on the right path. The engine for my 51 Chevy made 656hp with 8.5:1 compression and had it not been running too lean, would have gone into the 51 just like that. Slightly different heads or fuel injection and it would probably peaked right at the 700hp goal. At that goal, I wanted a street car that could handle well and go down the track occasionally. The new goal is to take the same engine with the 871 and go down the track well and still drive on the street moderately safely. I hope I'll be able to amass the kind of road miles Jim put on plan B while doing it.
Yes, big power will spin tires. To stop that require working on the suspension. Squirrel has a car with suspension set up to use the power. Performance it about the total package. Not just a big motor.
Just don't push the "go" pedal down very far. Unless you're in a controlled environment, like on a drag strip, with racing tires.
A long time ago a wise CW4 told me that there was 3 things every pilot wanted to know. 1) What is this helicopter really capable of doing? 2) What am I capable of handling? And 3) What could happen that would scare the crap out of me?. He said usually if you're lucky you find all three answers at the same moment. He went on to say when you do, don't push it to see if there is anything else. I think the same holds true with driving a hot car. At least I don't have to worry about someone talking me into driving a formation flight through the clouds with the car.
Wheelspin is counter-productive. Good ET's will come from having as little as possible. You either limit the power to suit the suspension setup of the car, or you dial in the suspension to suit the higher power levels. If it is hooking up well, it shouldn't be excessively shredding the tires......
What's the objective ??? A Burnout car or a Drag car? You can set the suspension up to do either, but not both at the same time. Also power and traction need to overcome weight. My BB Corvette road racer was over 650 ft/lbs torque and weighed 2574 lbs, I could break the tyres loose at 100mph [when cold] But I could still feed it off a 70mph corner at an amazing rate [3.7 gears at 5100 rpm in 2nd gear]
You say New Zealand, but the use of "amazing rate" in that sentence sounds like British understatement!
You could be like those Australian burnout cars, huge power and skinny tires. But....when you're driving around normally it isn't like you have max hp at 18000-2000 rpm, so the car would drive like a normal car. It doesn't take long to get out of shape on the street when you do hammer them though.
Build it however you want, then learn how to drive it. If its built right, it doesn't HAVE to be a tire shredder all the time, learn how to drive with out the throttle wide open. With that much power on hand, the 4:56 gears don't make much sense, save those for when you blow up the SOHC 427 and install the SBC.
@snoc653 how fast thinking of? """" Trans Ratio, Gear & suspension !!!! Back in late 80s early 90 Alot drivers on Street We where experimenting with 3:25 -2:80 ish On Bottle before Progressive kits 300 plus, on hit then maybe another Kit about 300 foot out. Same with Blowers with N 50 s & L60s In 1/8 6:50s , Water , & sometime's Glue , on street.. Now on 275 & 315 D-R tire Glue Record is 5:70 ish in 1/4 around 270mph , Picking a Trans, Look @ Tq number Not Hp , for breakage. C1, C2 Lenco many parts not made by Lenco Now , What option You looking to have in Can ? 427 with 400ish of Tq Or 427 with 600 plus Tq Me any time I build A high Tq & Hp combo small Tires , I test in big Wide open parking lot Ect , to see ,get a fell what New characteristics to look & feel out . Seat Time , Seat Time !!
Why use two extremes for gear selection? It doesn't have to be 3.00 or 4.56 gears. Why not 3.55 or 3.73 gears? As for 700HP engines, there are some modern engines making that much that are extremely well mannered, but most older engines (the SOHC included) wont be much good at being nice drivers with 700HP. So unless you plan a modern engine with a computer you'd likely regret it.
I WISH !!! 500 HP Chipped Mustang is all... (You DA MAN S.Q.) Like'n dat lil' Chevy II A lot... Always have liked the square ones! 6sally6
700hp isn't needed. @6sally6 could "have his cake and eat it" with 5.14 gears and a T56 trans. A 350hp engine in a 2800lb car is good for 11.6 quarters [if it hooks] With a T56 it would also cruise at 70mph @2100 rpm in 6th I would rather have a 350hp "sleeper" that can blow the doors off a much higher hp car But if doing burnouts leaving cars'n'coffee is the main objective ,then a simple 180° reverse-plumbled line lock on the rear brake circuit would achieve the same results [Australian burnout cars]
Some of the cars in the FAST series are running deep 9’s on factory rubber. So it can be done, but it won’t be cheap.
My Henry J dynoed at 600 square with a cheap pro comp victor jr copy, wore out 850 carb and a stock hei distributor, I've since went to a tunnel ram with dual 750's and a full MSD ignition. I think it should have a conservative 650 hp now, 4.57 gears, it weighs 2600 lbs and has a 30x12.5 M/T ET street out back. I drove it all summer last year shaking it down, I did give it a test hit on video and it instantly hit the rev limiter in first and 2nd gear was no better so I got out of it. In the video you can see the car drives normal before and after
Looks like you're Tearin' up the cemetery grounds! Amazing how that long pedal to the right allows control!
Yep, a normally aspirated carburetored engine spitting out 700HP is probably going to be one very grumpy hombre....
I don’t think a big block has to be all that radical to make 700 hp on pump gas. With about 80 more cubic inches my 505 made 656 at 6400 with 8.5:1 compression. It acted very tame on the dyno but wouldn’t pull all the way to 7000. Turned out the heads were too large and we were going way lean. A little less head volume and it would have been perfect.
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