Im sorting through the planning of replacing the C2 corvette rear in my 34 amongst a raft of other chassis work. Sitting at work and looking at options and going through previous threads etc including info posted by Abone and other - thanks! Want to fit new parts etc so they outlast me so will be buying a new rear end and ultimately there isnt a lot of difference in price between a 9 inch from Currie and a Winters Quick Change. Has anyone here fitted a Winters QC to their Model 40 coupe and have any words of wisdom? From what I can see so far it looks like a Model A or T rear spring is often used?Model A rear crossmember? For the remaining parts of the suspension it looks like ladders bars are often used or even 36 bones? The driveline is a mild 355 and muncie and whilst I get into it every now and then it doesnt get thrashed. Thoughts?
Any time, here is some info I received from a chap named Gary on the Hamb, he was so helpful and full of knowledge, also my build thread has lots more pics. I always set everything up based on the flat center part of the frame. My model a crossmember was always level with the center of the frame. I set me rearend at 2.5-3 degrees up at the nose. My spring hangers were level with the top of the crossmember and the center of the frame. Your distance between the frame and rearend looks good. Make sure you set your spring hangers so you end up with a 45 degree shackle under a load. I’ve never used a rear panard on a buggy spring rear. I had P&J’s make my Ladder bars and my 33-34 bars were extra long and worked really good.
For someone half way around the world, I’d say it’s easiest to just order all the parts from Pete & Jake’s. They could probably even weld the ladder bar, shock, and spring perches to the axle before shipping. They could supply every single part you need (unless they don’t have the Winters axle, but you could have it shipped to them).
So have been doing a lot more reading, using google to search the HAMB is much better for results. Thanks to all that have posted so far! It appears from this thread if the bones arent split I dont need a torque rod or some sort of panhard bar. Thanks @SamIyam for that. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...od-suspension-simplified.677460/#post-7528169 @voodoo Twin added a little more strength to his although Im not sure why the additional upper section is adjustible when the original bones arent? Perhaps for setup? If splitting them I can definetly see the need for a panhard bar or similar as @metal man did Have I got this right? Thanks
I think you've got a grip on it! I imagine the 'adjustable' bits are merely a simple way of making the bars. The clevises are a neat way of meeting the mounting tabs, thus threading the bars becomes necessary. Bonus would be adjustability for any dimensional issues created by welding? Chris
As for the do you need a torque arm or not, the short answer is yes. The stock arms relied on the closed tube driveshaft assembly to control rear end torque load. If you have an open driveshaft, you will need some sort of torque arm. In theory, you will also need a panhard bar, but in practice, many cars don't have a rear panhard. -Abone.
I've done the above with 36 bones and a torque arm several times or P&J's ladder bars. In the last 40+ years I've done countless buggy spring rears with either an A spring or 40 spring and have never used a panard bar. If the rear end is set up right with proper spring perch spacing when loaded the shackles are at a 45 degree angle which eliminates side sway. Yes a panard is needed in the front in a car with cross steer regardless of shackle angle to eliminate side movement created by the cross steering
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