Hey, Tim; RAK n 6ball sorta covered it. Partial-flow is just fine - somewhere I read/found the specs on volume-flow, & it only takes a couple minutes to filter everything via that method. Maybe not quite as nice as a full-flow, but absolutely certainly worth it. &, btw, you can use a filtering medium that is finer than a spin-on, if you wish. Yes, you can change to full-flow. I'd stick w/the partial-flow. The only advantage to FF is at least *some* of the bearings get cleaned-oil 1st(not all do always, depends on the designer/mfgr). The canister you have will work well for that, but not for a full-flow-conversion(no over-pressure blowoff/diverter valve). IIRC, you need a restrictor in the in-line, ~ .060 dia should do well. It's only a small siphoning-off effect anyways. Lines don't have to be very large, but the outlet could be larger than the inlet. Match to what you have, it'll work well. Inlet goes into the side ~midway up, outlet comes out at bottom-center of canister. The inlet will of course, be pressurized, but the outlet is almost gravity-flow. I'd dump it into the oilpan, 1st choice. Other places that'd work well would be the lifter valley, or the oil fill tube at the front of the mill. Just take abit longer to get into the pan. Not critical, just don't dump it into the rocker boxes, as the flow out of those is atrociously slow. If you can get the '39 ford top to work, that'd be killer. *NEED* a write-up(ya - tech-version, please. ). All the sudden, the top-shifter conversion might get either cheaper or easier. . Marcus...
Really interesting. I know how to get the leaver out of Fords & Chevys but the Jeep is way different to get the leaver out of for mods. I had no idea the '39 would be that close. I wonder how the forks line up? I to feel the partial filtering is adequate. If I changed the return I'd put it into the pan. The valley is also slow and dumpy the oil on the distributor gear that whips it up. Or so I've read.
That all makes since. From what I read and see the optional stock filter canister had a bracket that bolted it to the oil breather stand and then dumps it down the breather so my first thought is to emulate that set up with this canister I have. It has two threaded bungs in the breather tube, it’s pretty beefy. Should be a fun little bracket project
Tim/All: I looked for the breather for the 59 motor but couldn't find it but no matter. The shop manual says the feed line to the partial flow filter comes off of the front of the drivers side head, I took a picture of it for you. The filter drains into the breather tube, probably at the bottom and that goes into the lifter gallery. FYI; the oil feed for the timing gears is from the oil pressure relief valve located on the passenger side front down low, not the filter drain line. I also wanted to point out that at the rear passenger side of the head is the feed port for the oil pressure gauge (rubber flex line) ; also pictured. It's the same port that's used for the filter feed because the heads aren't side-specific. Lastly, I included a couple of pictures of where the full flow filter is located and what one looks like, it's the same one used for the sixes so if you ever got a bare block and needed one either a six or V8 will work.
Awesome thanks man I appreciate all that. I bet you could drill the block off plate and tap it for a line fitting and be set! Just need to figure out how to add the restrictor to the line at the head.
There may already be one at the feed line fitting on the filter, I'd check before doing anything else.
Well the other day I thought “dang that looks good with no headlights! Maybe it needs a dropped headlight bar?” so I real quick flip flopped it and set it on the car. Yup. That needs the happen. we tried a few other ideas but this is what we ended up doing today. We welded some tabs to the table to hold our stock width and mounting points. We had to move it around a few times to alow the bar to be dropped past the bottom of the tabs and not hit the table. In retrospect I wish we had drilled some holes and bolted it on. It would have saved a little time double checking measurements but as it happened we could still see on the tab and the headlight bar where we had tacked it together at one point and used those are registration marks. that set up we tacked the headlight bar flange to the table and a 1” inside diameter pipe over the bottom bolt hole. I had read a lot about guys getting a good drop and then not being able to get the lower bolts in/put. I wanted to be able to pull a one inch length bolt out no problem. So we heated and bent the end over the pipe. Second one went smoother with a little more heat. I think you could really get good at this and get a little stretch in it if you wanted to. then for the second bend we welded another tab to the table and a smaller diameter pipe to the table to bend it around. We checked the angle of the very first tabs we put on the table before starting all of this and checked it while doing this. Mounting flange to horizontal bar between lights. gratuitous flame photo. that ends up stopping with the mounting cup hitting the pipe. So grabbed a piece of scrap and tacked it together the table and the headlight bar to isolated the last little bit of bending to get all the angles correct turned out pretty cool! The shape of the ends remind me more of an old hotrod or drag car than an aftermarket swan neck but I like it. Feels like that’s what it wanted so that’s what got done. We did end up cutting the ends off the bar just shy of the mounting cups and adding I think a 1/2” of solid rod to both clear the head light buckets and stretch back out to be bolted back to the car. This took a little tweaking to get right but not to crazy. I think if you wanted to you could find a method to heat the end and pull the mounting flange out the 1/2” which would pull it away from the bucket and give a more swan neck gentle curve. Lots of ways to do this. I’ve already got plenty of ideas on what I’ll do next time. not really sure how much drop we ended up with but I’d say 4” or a little more is a good guess. I’d have to hold a stock one against it. a little before and after. I always think it looks coolest under the single garage opener light. Figure about 20% of the headlight bucket was above the hood side top before the drop looking at these photos.
Looks great! Neat way to do it bending it around the pipes like that. The width was the thing that hung me when I did mine. Funny, reading in the Vern Tardel AV8 book he talks about it stretching when dropped and having to shorten them so I wasn’t even expecting the trouble I had being short. I like your solution and killed two birds. Nice job!!
First thing I did on mine, it makes such a huge difference. I borrowed a jig from a friend and my issue was the opposite, my bar was a little too long in the end.
The Jalopy Journal
