Register now to get rid of these ads!

Technical ‘63 Impala frt brake pulling issue

Discussion in 'Traditional Customs' started by Eth727, Mar 5, 2025 at 12:25 PM.

  1. Eth727
    Joined: Jun 20, 2024
    Posts: 151

    Eth727

    Hey guys so I’ve got a ‘63 Impala with stock drum brakes. When I brake it pulls right. I removed the drums to inspect and adjust. There was a lot of dust on the right. The hardware is in good shape . Hoses and cylinders aren’t leaking. I adjusted the left side closer to the shoes . It still pulls right.
    The front suspension does need to be rebuilt. What would you guys recommend I do first? Thanks
     
  2. How old are the brake hoses? If they are old replacing those would be my first plan of action. Even if they are not the culprit rubber only has so long a life span.
     
    jaracer likes this.
  3. RodStRace
    Joined: Dec 7, 2007
    Posts: 6,509

    RodStRace
    Member

    The front end being worn is going to cause issues, even if the brakes are right.
    Fix stuff you know is wrong. Keep doing that until everything is decent, then work on what still isn't.
    Tires, wheel bearings, brakes and suspension can all cause pulling.
     
    Truckdoctor Andy likes this.
  4. Oneball
    Joined: Jul 30, 2023
    Posts: 1,341

    Oneball
    Member

    As well as what others have says above. Is the slave cylinder on the left seized?
     
  5. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 58,142

    squirrel
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    If there are loose control arm bushings (one example) then when you apply the brakes, the control arm will move and change the wheel alignment. So look over the suspension, the upper control arm bushings in those cars like to "go away". But if you haven't replaced/overhauled the wheel cylinders, they'd be the first thing to suspect.
     
  6. F-ONE
    Joined: Mar 27, 2008
    Posts: 3,534

    F-ONE
    Member
    from Alabama

    Pulls to the right...
    Dust on the right...

    This is a classic indication that only the right wheel is braking or braking adequately.

    The left needs attention.

    Here’s a trick.....

    Remove the left drum, shoes and hardware. Depress the brake and the left wheel cylinder should pop apart. Usually one piston will remain. That will probably be the sticky piston.

    If it does not pop apart and there is no change in the pedal, the cylinder is locked up tight or there is a blockage for that wheel, probably the rubber brake hose.

    I have seen it where the piston is fused to the wheel cylinder and it needed to be driven out.
    I have seen both pistons locked so bad that the wheel cylinder could not be rebuilt. This requires a new cylinder.

    Sticky, dirty cylinders can be cleaned up, honed and renewed on the car.
    Severely corroded wheel cylinders require replacement.

    Another thing overlooked is grooved backing plates that can hold the shoes.
    If the wheel cylinder is functioning, inspect the pads on the backing plate.
    If the backing plate pads are grooved, they’ll catch the shoe not allowing it to slide and make full contact with the drum.
    These pads in the backing plate can be filed so the shoes slide. If severely grooved that may need to be welded then ground down to restore the surface.

    The pads or slide surfaces on the backing plate should be greased regularly. Nobody hardly ever did this, thus it’s very common to see damaged backing plates.

    If the rubber hoses leave black on your hands, that’s a sign they should be replaced.
     
  7. You don't have two primary shoes on one side and two secondary shoes on the other side, do you? There should be one short shoe and one long shoe on each side.
     
  8. Tow Truck Tom
    Joined: Jul 3, 2018
    Posts: 2,795

    Tow Truck Tom
    Member
    from Clayton DE

    Right, when one side pulls I say "That works".
    Let's set what going on with the other.
     
  9. Eth727
    Joined: Jun 20, 2024
    Posts: 151

    Eth727

    Both shoes have the shorter in front per Chevy manual
     
  10. Eth727
    Joined: Jun 20, 2024
    Posts: 151

    Eth727

    I’ve never rebuilt or honed a wheel cylinder. Isn’t it faster and cheaper to just buy a new one?
     
  11. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 58,142

    squirrel
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    These days it's a lot easier to just buy new, assuming you can find the correct size, which is pretty easy for popular cars like that.
     
    427 sleeper and Truckdoctor Andy like this.
  12. Faster, yes, cheaper, it depends. I still rebuild wheel cylinders on my own stuff if for no other reason than I enjoy doing it. Professionally, I will NOT rebuild one. At work, even if the kit is cheaper than the new cylinder, what little savings there is gets eaten up in labor. Not to mention stuff at work has to carry a warranty.
     
    427 sleeper likes this.
  13. I used to have a stash of WC parts, I used up a lot over the years and finally trashed the rest.

    When I got my Ford in 2014, I looked up WC kits, they were more than new wheel cylinders, although made you-know-where.

    So new it was. 13k miles later, no leaks.
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.