Thanks Sirs ! Pictures are lie. Not easy make it good, because this Olive green Dupont is not covering acryl 2K. When You sand it with water... You can see after polishing difference if paint thickness is diffent. maybe I leave it like it is. I can repaint it or spray later clear coat ..... I want to built and drive. Not so interested anymore polishing.... so I continue. Need to buy 2litre that paint more. They just find out new recipe to do it. Car paint lines are change all the time their systems.... Aulis
Pictures are nice,... Sides and cabin backwall are terrible. I was try to increase paint there, but never get good surface. Surface was nearly fall down... "norway mountains" One problem is that Im blind. I note that I was left both sied doorposts dry.... so today I painted with mini airbrush. Aulis
Hmm, I would try wet sanding after a longer dry phase, I had the same problems with my 62 C10 and had to wet sand and polish the cabin. I started with 1000 to 6000 grit, the 3M Trizact abrasive proved to be good, I wetted a spray bottle with it and then polished it, it was a lot of work but it was worth it. You put so much work into the preparatory work. Greetings Harald
You've done a remarkable job saving the 5W and I understand your disappointment with the paint. How you can accomplish your builds in such an inclement weather is a testament to your abilities. Carry on, I know you'll enjoy your build when assembled and completed. Great job.
Your correct. Sanding with trizact + water is possible. I can do it after 1-2month when paint is OK for that. Next week I lift body on frame and continue building. Need to make brake lines, paint and install exhaust before body is on frame. Today They called from Dupont importer. They told me that 18month is max max time to keep paint in stock. I had "few month" (nearly 90month) more.
Everything has a self life now. I have paint that I still use that's over 20 years old. I have old lacquer that's even older. The hardest part is finding thinner/reducer and hardner that will work with the old paint. I paint mostly toys, motorcycle parts, and bicycle stuff with the old paint. When I paint anything that's car related I buy new paint.
Weekend they had small motorcycle show here in our city. Oskar had there 2 x Honda Monkey. My California model Kawasaki (1984 KZ700) was also in show. We spend rather much time there. Oskar´s new Monkey inspected there to Historical vehicle registeration (Cars >30y old, Motorcycles/mopeds >35y) Today I sanded exhaust , painted and installed. Also installed all brakestuff inside of rear drums. New cylinders, al other used stuff. Last hour or two made those two brakelines. Tomorrow need to make rest of brake lines. Aulis
"No woman, No cry !" I have had few "girlfriend" last years. Have we too good standard of living here? They all are start to talk about new house after few month dating. I like old houses. House is breathing, 100squaremeter living space.... Yes, good idea built new blingbling -house, but takes easily 500K built new house with nice "classwall" etc etc. Maybe they suppose, I pay all..... No, never. This house is 99y old timberhouse (pine) middle of the city. 1/2mile to railwaystation, same lenght to library, foodstores..... +1km to swimminghall, 200meter bowling, squash, padel..... but they think this is not nice new hitech house. This is paid, electric and all living costs (insurance, water, wastewater, waste disposal, property tax... 400euro/month if devided costs to 12month (5000euro year): Its not expensive and all services are near. So, hot rods are happy and they accept my small garage and they don´t accept china "bolt on shit" parts. Hot Rods are best girlfriend. A
and you don't even have a kitchen cabinet w/ spark plug wire sets--you are still very normal!--sounds great !!
Brakelines are mounted, fittings tighted. Front brakes also put together and connected to brakelines. Fuelline is also waiting for firewall. Driverside I use original fuelline mounting clip. Aulis
WOW! really like your project and your work! I just came across this thread and have spent the last hour on it. Your brake master cylinder is great. Do you have some dimensions of the bellcrank and arms. What is your pedal ration with this setup?
Thank You. Master cylinder is Chevy 40´s. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...486577,brake+&+wheel+hub,master+cylinder,1836 I can measure and give You lengths. I think this batterybox+mastercylinder+link is made by Boiling brothers https://www.bolingbrothers.com/ I bought set from here HamB. This set is fit to A-Ford, but I changed it to fit my 1932 frame. I turned box 90dec, also maincylinder changed to next side. Originally "swing" arm was 1:1. I shorted upper side (which is connected to pedal). Small changes, but I think it works. You have good "sling" in 1932 original pedal, when You have long arm where is pedal pad and short arm where where You footpower is transferred to swing arm.... I haven´t make any calculations how much footpower is less than original combination, but I think this works fine. 12" lincoln brakes all corners, 1000kg car, cheyv 40s mastercylinder...is OK. Wheelcylinders are maybe not same size than original 1937-41 lincoln bendix brakes. Maybe those are 1/16" smaller, I forgot measure before installed new ones Yesterday. Those new wheelcylinders are from Rockauto. F1 ford,... One diffence is that those later bendix cylinders (F1 pu) have smaller outlets. (7/16"-24) than some of those early bendix brake stuff. I had rebuiltkits for original cylinders, but new ones are nearly free, so I decided to use new ones. Aulis
Thanks for your detailed response and the links. I was unaware of the Boiling Bros kit for Model As and it looks like a good one. The stock '32 brake pedal ratio is 13"/3.5" = 3.71 ratio I welded an arm to the stock pedal arm giving 13"/3" = 4.33 ratio I have MT product kits on my '32, front and rear. The front bores are 1-1/8" and rears 1". I have a stepped bore master cylinder with primary bore of 1.25" and secondary of .945" This setup has worked well for me. Part numbers are shown in the attached pdf file. Note that 7/16"-24 is the correct fitting size for 1/4" brake lines. I would like to get the lever dimensions for the bellcrank. Shortening the top as you have done is good since it will improve the effective ratio and will lessen brake foot force.
I just noticed that your front brake shoes are mounted incorrectly. The longer shoe for self-actuating brakes shall be on the rear, opposite to what you show. Once again, I really like your build. Staying a s close as possible to original is the way to go!
Yes, Driverside both are long. pass side another is shorter. When Car is ready to drive test drive and I can drive to my friends car service where I can test brakes in dyno as many times as I want. I know that brakepower is same even brake shoe surface lenght is different. I have note that earlier projects
For self-energizing brakes as you have: "Brake Shoe Length Direction In drum brake systems, the orientation of the brake shoes is crucial for optimal performance. Typically, the shorter shoe is placed in front and the longer shoe is placed at the rear. This setup is known as a duo-servo brake system, where the shorter front shoe, or primary shoe, engages the drum and transfers energy to the longer rear shoe, or secondary shoe, increasing braking power. The primary shoe, which faces the front of the vehicle, has a shorter lining and is designed to grab the rotating drum and try to turn with it. This action pushes the bottom of the rear shoe into the drum, while the rear piston in the wheel cylinder pushes the top of the rear shoe into the drum. Both forces act on the rear shoe, which has a longer lining to do most of the stopping. Reversing the shoes can lead to reduced braking efficiency, noise, and brake drag, potentially causing a pull in the steering." Much easier to switch them now before the drums and wheels are mounted.
Yes, I loose braking power. I have installed earlier so that longer shoe is front, good brakes, no problems... I have enough braking power if those original lincoln brakes are made for +2000kg car and now those are installed under 1000kg car. Im not gonna change shoes, I know works fine like this. If You have new shoes, many time tricky to get nice brakes. We everybody know that only those drums where You have steel center, cast outer ring --> those are never 100%, but even You have lathe those. But this is hot rodding. There is so many way to get brakes. Most want use disc brakes, or new bendix lincoln copies. Many likes to use booster and GM style 2 circle main cylinder. I like old original stuff, old shoes are best, and I have also shoes wrong side maybe shoes on my feet too.... a
Other parts are OK, but body looks terrible. so,... I decided to fix little before drop it down. Panel below decklid had many small "rubbish" ( I dont know what word You use for those small shit...). I removed those and polished little. Decklid has too few of those dirty thing, need to remove those too. 1800 sanding paper + water + 3M green and blue -compound + coffee + rock´n´roll 2days fixing body is OK. After one driving season I check what Im gonna do with body, or leave like it is.... Increased rear wiring. new 1938 ford wiring set is OK. Just need to connect later brakelight switch, front wiring. Rear wirings are too long, but easy to make fit my combination. Im sure car is ready for driving before end of June. Aulis
Body sanded and polished. Not 100%, but enough for me. Rather hard work to sand with water (1500 paper, 3M). Yesterday 6hours, today 7hours. Tomorrow , Sunday, I increase topwood, quarter window woods, B-pillar woods. After that I can lift body on frame. I use, as normal, engine lifter. Aulis I need window seal with lip. I found from company which is located in UK. Is here somebody from UK who wants to help me? I email to that company, they answered " we don´t ship outside of UK". I pay all costs + salary if somebody in UK can buy me and ship to Finland (post etc). https://themetalhouse.co.uk/product/rubber-window-glazing-seal-with-lip/
Oh, I can understand that. I worked on my '62 C10 like that. It has a lot of surface area. You'll be glad you did it now. It looks nice. Regards Harald
Thanks Harald! I was sand carefully, not enought deep to get perfect surface. There is another green colour (wet to wet) under. Not want it comes up. Aulis
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