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Projects Attic Anglia

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER, Jun 5, 2012.

  1. THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Joined: Jun 6, 2007
    Posts: 5,935

    THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Member
    from FRENCHTOWN

    Gradually, I have inched my way down to the collector from the engine. After adding in the second primary connection to the collector I will be welding in flanges to both sides of the muffler so that the system can be installed/removed in three major chunks - the primaries, the muffler, and the tail pipe. A fourth piece - a header dump, can then be inserted in lieu of the muffler to enable running with open exhaust on the track.


    One major piece of the puzzle is missing. Can you figure out what it is? That's right - THE CAR!
    Because of space limitations the Attic Anglia is stored at a storage building off site. That has meant I have had to mark each piece of pipe on the chassis, bring it home to tack weld on, return the pipes back to the storage building for final fit, return back home to finish weld it, go back to the storage building for an additional fit-up to insure nothing moved from warping, and then proceed downstream to the next segment. Tedious. I do not recommend this method as an efficient use of time.


    Patience
    exhaust 31 - Copy.JPG exhaust 32 - Copy.JPG
     
    Last edited: Sep 3, 2024
  2. GearheadsQCE
    Joined: Mar 23, 2011
    Posts: 3,667

    GearheadsQCE
    Alliance Vendor

    If you'd get that orange thing out of the way, you could move the Anglia to that spot. :D
     
  3. THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Joined: Jun 6, 2007
    Posts: 5,935

    THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Member
    from FRENCHTOWN

    Then what would I use to mow my lawn?
     
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  4. THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Joined: Jun 6, 2007
    Posts: 5,935

    THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
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    from FRENCHTOWN

    The basic pipe shapes are finish welded and test fit on the chassis. Also, I received a couple sets of 3-bolt exhaust flanges - one for attaching each end of the muffler - and an additional set of 2-bolt flanges to attach the rear stinger to the pipe running over the rear axle. But to make the exhaust system easy to assemble / dis-assemble I welded nuts to the flanges so that two hands and two wrenches are not needed for assembly. I'll probably make up some piloted bolts for further ease of assembly.

    exhaust 33.JPG exhaust 34.JPG exhaust 35.JPG PilotBolt.jpg
     
  5. THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Joined: Jun 6, 2007
    Posts: 5,935

    THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Member
    from FRENCHTOWN

    Weld nuts are on the flanges. I am going to wait to weld the flanges to the pipes until I can get the chassis in for welding, to insure that the hangers fully align all the pipes before the flanges are permanently affixed.

    exhaust 36.JPG
     
  6. GearheadsQCE
    Joined: Mar 23, 2011
    Posts: 3,667

    GearheadsQCE
    Alliance Vendor

    You know, I have always tried to weld the nuts on the flats. Makes much more sense to hit the points.

    Just a dumb thing that I really never thought about until I saw your pic. Head Slap!!!!
     
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  7. THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Joined: Jun 6, 2007
    Posts: 5,935

    THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Member
    from FRENCHTOWN

    My theory on that is if I weld on the corners there wll be less likelyhood of the threads distorting. Another thing I do is wrap tape around the bolts to insure that the threads are centered in the holes. Welding on the nuts will often "pull" the nut and bolt assembly up against the flange, making bolt removal difficult. Taping up the bolt to center it up in its hole will minimize that problem.
    Also, I am not a fan of excessive clearance in bolt holes. I often drill the holes close to the bolt diameter and open them up only after all the fit-up and welding is complete. Call me OCD.
     
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  8. Dave G in Gansevoort
    Joined: Mar 28, 2019
    Posts: 3,354

    Dave G in Gansevoort
    Member
    from Upstate NY

    Here's a trick I learned from a friend decades ago for getting good threads and centered.
    DSCN1184.JPG DSCN1185.JPG DSCN1186.JPG
    The 3 pictures sort of spell it out. Typically you need 1/8 - inch thick material, so it doesn't work on 20 gauge...

    Anyway, 1st picture shows the step drilled hole. That ledge left keeps the flange nut from dropping thru. 2nd picture sort of unnecessary, so you get the idea...

    3rd picture shows the flange nut in place before welding.the closer to the surface, the more you might have to grind. I tig around the flange, which keeps the weld clean and away from the threads. Sometimes I go an extra step if I really want those threads perfectly perpendicular to the surface and if I can get to the back side of the part. Take a larger size nut, a bolt to fit the flange nut, and a flat washer. Assemble on the back side pulling the nut tight into the hole, holding it square.

    A little bit time consuming, however the results are worth the effort in some applications.
     
  9. THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Joined: Jun 6, 2007
    Posts: 5,935

    THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Member
    from FRENCHTOWN

    I took a week off of working on the HAMB projects to get two cars ready for the Milan Nostalgia Drag Race.
    I drove my '23 T Advanced Chassis car (not the Logghe car) and my neighbor drove The Frenchtown Family Truckster. In the Friday Gamblers race we both got down to the final three cars and we agreed to split the purse three ways equally, so we went home with the bulk of the prize money even though I lost in the semis and George lost in the final. On Saturday I fouled in Round One. Hero-to-0-in-nuttin'-flat. George went out in Round Three, out of the money.
    BTW, this year's race was a blast. I hope somebody posts pics. Great turnout. Great weather. Good times. Memories.
     
    Last edited: Sep 22, 2024
    brEad and loudbang like this.
  10. THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Joined: Jun 6, 2007
    Posts: 5,935

    THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Member
    from FRENCHTOWN

    A buddy gave me a chain fall. I have an overhead trolley in the storage building where the Attic Anglia is housed, so this will come in handy down the road to lift heavy things, like the Anglia body and engine..

    chainfall 1.JPG
     
    Last edited: Nov 18, 2024
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  11. '52 F-3
    Joined: Sep 30, 2007
    Posts: 961

    '52 F-3
    Member
    from Central PA

    Sir, you do very nice work. Great Thread!
     
  12. THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Joined: Jun 6, 2007
    Posts: 5,935

    THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Member
    from FRENCHTOWN

    Thank you '52 F-3. Stay tuned this summer for further progress.

    EDIT: I read some of your Model A posts and you are an excellent artisan/craftsman.
    Plus - I like green - the color of my Anglia project.
     
    Last edited: Mar 22, 2025

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