Fairlane w/econoline straight axle, need steering arm info

Hi Guys

new guy, need some info. I'm currently building a 64 Fairlane with a 65 Econoline axle. Have the axle set-up all mounted and now starting on the steering components. Anyone know if they make aftermarket steering arms for 61-67 econoline spindles? all I could find were early 30's & 40's stuff. Going to use the factory Fairlane steering box and cross over to right spindle. Only options right now are to modify original econoline arms or machine new pieces. Any of you guys with 60's straight axle cars (Tingler, Rad****, Zettle Bros) can post some pics (or email them) of your front axle and steering linkage.





see http://members.shaw.ca/blueoval/64fairlane.htm for more pics

Thanks

 

Man !!!!! That looks good. Sorry I cant help on the steering arms .

 

What kinda FE ya got in there? I'm thinking of doing the same axle thing to my '65 Caliente.

 

Very cool, throw up some pic's of the whole car. Love them g***er's Gary

 

I'd just pm TINGLER or search some of his old posts. I know when he first built his he posted a lot of pics and gave a lot of tech on his buildup, so I'm sure he could get you set straight!!

 

I did a lot of searching on this site, before posting. Most of Tinglers post have red x's for pictures

 

Actually, it's a 289. The valve covers are FE look-a-likes.

 

more pics at http://members.shaw.ca/blueoval/64fairlane.htm

 

I can't tell from your pics, but could you just swap the left and right steering arms? maybe with a little hot wrench modification of the originals to make the heights and angles correct? My guess is thatthe arms should unbolt and switch sides.

I am not aware of any aftermarket steering arms for the Econoline spindles.

 

I think Tingler just uses speedway parts..

 

my fairlaine ranchero g***er uses all econoline stuff, but with the stock steering box. the box is relocated in front of the axle and the pitman arm is turned sideways, this allows it to steer the econolined stuff in a side steer configuration. i'll get some pics later tonight.

 

Hey,
That does look good.


The solution to your problem is simple.

Here's what I did. I went and got a piece of 4" x 4" tubing 1/2" wall thickness and cut out a steering arm out of it.

Hell, you can get a piece of 1/2" plate and do the same thing if you got some way to bend it.

I didn't so I got some tubing and flame cut a steering arm out of it.

My drag link runs from the stock box over to the top of the p***enger side spindle...and to the home made steering arm I made.

It works well.

I'll see if I can find some pics of it this afternoon.....

P.S. Yes I did use a bunch of Speedway stuff. Mostly because I didn't know what I was doing. If I had it to do over (and I might) I'd do what you did. DAMN that looks good!

J.

 

Ahhhh...found it.

Here's a pic.

You can barely see the home made steering arm.

But its pretty simple. Its just flat steel with two tabs pointing down with holes drilled in it to bolt it to the spindle.

At 1/2" thick, its plenty strong without any gussets or what not.




Oh yeah, I almost forgot, I flipped my brake calipers around to run them pointing towards the front of the car... I did this to gain space to run the homemade steering arm.

It works fine that way.

 

Thanks Tingler, do you have a pic from the back view of the steering arm? I'm guessing the length of the arm should be equal to the pitman arm, so the draglink is parallel to the axle, correct? Can't tell by looking at the picture, but does your drag link crossover, parallel to the top of the axle also. Does it matter? or can the drag link be angled down to the spindle, without affecting the steering in any way?

 

This was going to be my last resort option. Did you mount the steering box on the inside or outside of the frame? How does it steer with side steer configuration? any bump steer?

 

I made the steering arm roughly the same length as the one on the bottom that I got from Speedway. I was guessing that that would be at least pretty good.....it seems that it was.

However I do not have the draglink perfectly parallel to the axle. That is a problem as I have a bit of bumpsteer.

Its my understanding that the draglink should be parallel to the axle and tie rod in order to eliminate bumpsteer.

If I were you, I'd attemp to get that drag link as parallel as possible.

I didn't....but even doing it slightly wrong, my car still isn't too bad. I can drive it.

I WILL be fixing it in the future.

Hope that helps.

J.

 

You could also put an S-bend in your draglink so that the ends are parallel to the axle/tierod. Alot of 4x4 guys do this on big lifts.

 

I just helped a buddy who re-did the econoline in his '55 ford. He made a steering arm out of some 5/16" angle and then "wrapped it" all the way around with some 1/4" x 1" - he was a bulldozer mechanic in a previous life and this arm looks like it - the thing's freakin' hambtastic!!! FWIW we turned a stepped bushing with an internal taper to match his teirod and then welded it in place. The arm mounts off the TOP of the p*** spindle and is nearly a straight shot to his factory box.

In the past I've made them from 1/2" plate - but I admit my buddy's looks way better!!

 

Tingler the Mad Man has the info.......also try Total Performance ....they have TP/Econoline spindle stuff and steering arms and all that cool stuff....their own spindle is the same as an Econoline spindle....

http://www.tperformance.com/

 

That will keep the tierods from binding due to the angle but will give bad bumpsteer and is weak compared to a straight link.
As the body moves down or up over bumps the angle between the tierods will cause it to effectively lengthen or shorten with the wheels turning as a result.
GOOD 4x4 fabricators have been trying to eliminate that modification for years!

 

The fuel filter tricked me. I thought it was an oil filter... the way they mount on an FE. Good info on this post!

 

just took some new pics of the whole car

 

What does that Air Box from MR Motorsports cost??? Site ??

 

Contact Mark from M.R. Motorsports at mcmullen1@rogers.com . He is located in Ontario, Canada. His boxes will fit FE low rise and mediun rise 2X4 intakes and 2X4 small block intake set-ups. He also makes them for single 4V applications. I bought mine a long time ago, I think it was around $450 US ?. Contact Mark for current prices... here's a single carb airbox:

 

Looks great so far! Did you have to narrow the econoline axle? What about your steering - did you ever get it hooked up?

 

Thanks Ford Freak. Yes had to narrow the econoline axle 5" to make the center of the spring perches 31" apart. Working on the steering linkage at this time. I modified the original econo steering arms, but may machine up some new arms instead. Still have to figure out how I'm going to connect the drag link from the steering box to the RH spindle.

 

Your car looks awesome!!! It is begging for a FE though!!!LOL Are you going to letter it like a Thunderbolt? I've thought about doing one that was sponsored by a local Ford dealer that never had a real one.

 

Thanks!, the more time this build takes the more I start thinking about switching to a 427 FE, especially with all the new 427 FE stuff coming available. But, I have too much invested into the engine and trans to switch now. The car will be set-up to handle a big block, so maybe in the future, when some of the aftermarket 427 FE parts prices come down abit?
The plan is to letter the car with THUNDERBOLT across the rear quaters and various decals like autolite plugs, hurst shifters etc...

 

You don't need to start with a 427. A 390 looks almost the same and can be built to make decent horsepower. A 427 will then set right down in those 390 mounts when you are able to build one... Just an idea... At least it isn't a brand X motor...LOL Great car !!!

 

i have looked over your pics and didnt see where you steering box is...i hope you know it has to be on the same side of the axle as the solid spring hanger..that would cause bump steer as well..i also have to agree with the drad link being on the same plane as the axle..bending it or even tieing it into a knot wont change the amount of bump steer..hell of a nice car..heres a falcon conv. in my area for sale..http://www.usedvictoria.com/cl***ified-ad/2165046&category=specialty-antique-collector-cars