My 63 C10 has many seams from the factory and they are no longer filled in with caulking, is there a special caulking for vehicles that will not fall out in a few year's? Thank Y'all for any help. Dustin Sirrine (1Nimrod)
Tip for using seam sealer. Dip your finger tip in Acetone and then wipe over your bead and it will lay it down smooth as factory.
Thank you firstinsteele Ben, and thank you stubbsrodandcustom for the quick tip on the finger tip. I appreciate y'alls help it's very much appreciated... Dustin (1Nimrod)
Lots of good seam sealers out there. Go to your local autobody supplier and see what they stock. A lot of them will be cheaper than 3M.
Seam sealer, let it set a bit and then smooth it with a little acetone and an acid brush. You can also use the same method with acrylic latex caulk, let it set a bit and smooth with water and an acid brush. Thought I would throw that in there! Worked on a construction crew with a guy called Booger, yes, Booger. One day he said they we had some corking to do. I said, OK , but you need to tell me just what the heck that is. Yep, corking/caulking, same thing!
I use this a lot. About $20 at my paint supplier. I use the acetone trick to smooth it out and I prefer the black over the grey or white unless I was spraying light gray or white paint over it. However the color of the sealer probably makes no difference on the top coat. Another tip is I try to remove most of the old caulking, both the flaking parts and the parts that aren’t before I use the new sealer. The old sealer that isn’t loose might become loose in the future
A tip I learned from my nephew who’s in the trade is to lay some masking tape on either side of the seam. 5he apply the sealer for excellent neatness!
I don't know how clean your paint is in these areas but even well maintained ones get a little dingy/dirty in there, one suggestion is to give a little swipe of degreaser along the seam line before sealing.
Denny, yes it's very dirty, it's the area on the roof over the Windshield, roof seems, and in the area over where the Doors close and a few other's places around that area. I'm going to clean the area's up good, tape it off, sand it down, then tape the area off with new tape and use the gray Por15 in those areas, after the Por15 then the 3m (or similar caulking) to fill in those areas and use the quick tip on the acetone finger tip, then apply touch up paint to all the newly sealed up area's. It should be good for some year's, by then I'll be worm food and my oldest Grandson (in my avatar) Bobcat can be the next caretaker of the 63 C10. Thank y'all for your help, I really appreciate everyone's experience and help... Dustin Sirrine PS- of course use actone to clean after each step...
One school of thought that I've read is that applying sealer directly on bare steel is ok. So, any time you need practice feel free to stop by, other than the NOS primed fenders our 66 Suburban is still in bare metal, that roof was an SOB! I'm pretty good at delegating!
You've gotten some sound advice..... Just don't lay it on real thick in the "seam" areas. Between the top/roof as you will, there are/is stepped metal in the seam. Clean,clean,clean, then apply........ Been there myself!
If you are doing the roof or anywhere it will be seen spend the extra money and get a good quality 2k Epoxy control flow seam sealer. Forget about the Por 15 just get it cleaned up really well gun it out give it a super quick wipe with your finger and leave it it will flow out to perfectly smooth. If its an area that needs an edge tape it and do the same thing. It will look like the sample on the far left every time regardless of how experienced you are.
ive used tiger seal with great results .use gloves you will have great fun getting it off your skin.its sticky stuff .https://u-pol.com/product/adhesives...tiger-seal-polyurethane-sealant-and-adhesive/ .
Thank you INVISIBLEKID for your help. I think (maybe) what was used on the seams before was bathtub caulking by the way it's peeling off, either that or not paying attention to properly cleaning and preparing and applying the correct type of seam seller compound. Dustin Sirrine
nunattax, thank you for your recommendation on the Tiger-Seal. I will check it out and also check out all the other types of Seam-Sealants, Caulking materials. I really appreciate everyone's help... Dustin Sirrine
Trailer Trash Too (Russ), Thank You my friend for all your help these many years... Dustin Sirrine (1Nimrod)
I want to make sure it's done correctly. This area on all the 1960-66 C10's the roof drip edge, if not sealed properly the water will get in-between the upper roof panel and the lower roof panel, then rust begins and the roof drip edge will rot out from the inside out. The area all around the roof drip edge and the A-pillars on the 1st generation C10's rots/rust out from the inside out and then it get very expensive after the water damage starts. I believe it's one of the worst area's on our C10's (next to the floorboards & inner & outer rocker panels & cab corners) that gets water damage and it gets ignored by not so good body shops that cover it up with filler and a quick paint job just to get the C10 looking good enough and sold to the unexpecting buyer. I appreciate everyone's help... Thank Y'all very much... Dustin Sirrine (1Nimrod)
The Jalopy Journal
