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Projects The McKindley Hot Rod (Re)Build

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Speedster, Oct 10, 2024.

  1. Speedster
    Joined: Sep 4, 2006
    Posts: 108

    Speedster
    Member
    from Tacoma, WA

    You are right on the money. I’m going to keep it as original as possible. No unnecessary updates or changes.
     
  2. hotdamn
    Joined: Aug 25, 2006
    Posts: 2,644

    hotdamn
    Member

    That 6 is super cool, what condition is it in?
     
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  3. Speedster
    Joined: Sep 4, 2006
    Posts: 108

    Speedster
    Member
    from Tacoma, WA

    It’s much better than I expected. Turns over easily by hand, the crank is .010/.010, but it’s at the upper wear limit on the second and third mains. I haven’t pulled the head, but everything under the valve covers looks good. I’m not doing much with the 6 right now as I have just acquired a fresh 8BA for this project. But my long term plan is to put into the roadster pickup.
     
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  4. Speedster
    Joined: Sep 4, 2006
    Posts: 108

    Speedster
    Member
    from Tacoma, WA

    IMG_1394.jpeg IMG_1393.jpeg I shipped out my ‘41 Ford coupe to SoCal last week and now have enough shop space to get going on the roadster pickup again. Early in the week I found an original ‘27 hood and the matching grill shell. The car was originally built in 1950 with these parts. I’d been debating on changing the look with a ‘32 grill shell, just because I like it, but have decided that preserving this car and bringing it back to its original state is very important. Especially now that I have the original parts.
    Also, a few weeks ago I snapped up another ‘27 roadster body in much better shape than what’s on the car. Particularly the cowl. The new body has the seat base in it, so that’ll save additional fabrication time. I did a quick mock up and pictures are attached.
     
    Last edited: Feb 2, 2025
  5. Grumpy ole A
    Joined: Jun 22, 2023
    Posts: 279

    Grumpy ole A
    Member

    It’s looking good with your “new” hood. Hope to see the better body on it soon.
     
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  6. Speedster
    Joined: Sep 4, 2006
    Posts: 108

    Speedster
    Member
    from Tacoma, WA

    Finally some progress on the hot rod. I purchased a a stalled project. It’s a 1953 Ford F250 with a professionally rebuilt EAB flathead. I bought the entire truck just to get the rebuilt engine, which I pulled yesterday and set it in the roadster pickup, it’s just in there temporarily to see how it looks. I will be installing a vintage Edelbrock two deuce intake and a couple of 97s, a new distributor, and the restored original headers. New water pumps were installed with mounting bosses to match what’s on the car. I’ll clean up and paint the bell housing from the original 8BA over the next couple of days, and get the engine bolted in on new motor mounts IMG_1566.jpeg IMG_1565.jpeg IMG_1564.jpeg IMG_1563.jpeg IMG_1562.jpeg IMG_1561.jpeg IMG_1560.jpeg
     
  7. Speedster
    Joined: Sep 4, 2006
    Posts: 108

    Speedster
    Member
    from Tacoma, WA

    Fit the bell housing from my old 8BA to the rebuilt EAB and mated it to the Zypher trans. Sounds simple, but it took about six hours. The new engine is finally setting in the car with new front motor mounts installed. Once I got things aligned correctly it.went together pretty easily.
    Next project is to mount the radiator. I was going to use the Model T grille shell I recently acquired, but can’t resist cutting down a replica ‘32 shell I have in the shop. If that goes well I’ll fabricate a one piece hood top and leave the sides open.
    At least that’s the plan for now. Here are a few more pictures. Note the engine set back. IMG_1574.jpeg IMG_1575.jpeg IMG_1576.jpeg IMG_1577.jpeg
     
    Last edited: Mar 16, 2025
  8. Speedster
    Joined: Sep 4, 2006
    Posts: 108

    Speedster
    Member
    from Tacoma, WA

    IMG_1595.jpeg IMG_1596.jpeg IMG_1597.jpeg IMG_1598.jpeg IMG_1599.jpeg Raised the engine and pulled, painted, and reinstalled the water pumps. Also modified the engine mounts with a through bolt from the top. I just don’t like having a critical bolt like an engine mount bolt coming from the bottom with a nut on top. So, I cut off the original bolt at the 5/8” shoulder, drilled it to 7/16” and used a grade 8 through bolt. Test fit the original headers on the new block and installed the starter. It’ll be running soon.
     
    Last edited: Mar 20, 2025
  9. Speedster
    Joined: Sep 4, 2006
    Posts: 108

    Speedster
    Member
    from Tacoma, WA

    Today I prepped the vintage Offenhauser intake and installed it along with two 97s. It’s came out looking pretty good.



    IMG_1615.jpeg IMG_1616.jpeg IMG_1617.jpeg IMG_1618.jpeg IMG_1619.jpeg IMG_1620.jpeg IMG_1614.jpeg
     
    Last edited: Mar 20, 2025
  10. AmishMike
    Joined: Mar 27, 2014
    Posts: 1,385

    AmishMike
    Member

    Guess u know old frame has built in bump steer - angle/arc of radius arm versus arc of steering. Many guys get used to, sure u will also. And besides, how much will axle move with rod end sideways & hot rod suspension anyway.
     
    Outback likes this.
  11. In my experience, most run 2-2's with simultaneous linkage...not progressive.
     
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  12. Speedster
    Joined: Sep 4, 2006
    Posts: 108

    Speedster
    Member
    from Tacoma, WA

    The engine is stock internally and the intake only has 4 3:4” carb spacing. I'm running the progressive linkage based on advice from Charlie Price at Vintage Speed.
     
    Last edited: Mar 21, 2025
  13. Speedster
    Joined: Sep 4, 2006
    Posts: 108

    Speedster
    Member
    from Tacoma, WA

    Temporarily mounted the radiator and used 1 1/4” surplus stainless tubes with 90 degree bends to connect the hoses.
    The next project will be to cut down a repop ‘32 shell to fit the 4 1/2” chopped radiator. IMG_1645.jpeg
     
    Last edited: Mar 28, 2025
  14. Speedster
    Joined: Sep 4, 2006
    Posts: 108

    Speedster
    Member
    from Tacoma, WA

  15. cfmvw
    Joined: Aug 24, 2015
    Posts: 1,071

    cfmvw
    Member

    Might also want to relocate the front brake hoses to exit out the side of the frame than the top; looks like they are kinked pretty bad in the pictures.
     
  16. Speedster
    Joined: Sep 4, 2006
    Posts: 108

    Speedster
    Member
    from Tacoma, WA

    Yep. There’s lots to be done. I will probably run new hard lines and relocate the front hoses as you suggest.
     
  17. GuyW
    Joined: Feb 23, 2007
    Posts: 780

    GuyW
    Member

    Kool horizontal mill in the background....
     
    Speedster likes this.
  18. Speedster
    Joined: Sep 4, 2006
    Posts: 108

    Speedster
    Member
    from Tacoma, WA

    Chopped the repop ‘32 grille shell today. It came out okay. Still not sure if I’ll go this route or use the original Model T shell. IMG_1648.jpeg
     
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  19. Speedster
    Joined: Sep 4, 2006
    Posts: 108

    Speedster
    Member
    from Tacoma, WA

    I removed and disassembled the brake master cylinder today, and identified it as a Chevy 3/4 ton pickup part with a 1 1/4” bore. The combination of brake parts is a little unusual. Chevy master cylinder, Ford rear brakes, and Dodge front brakes. The car was driven quite a bit until it came off the road in the early 60’s, so the brakes must have worked. The question is, how well. Guess I’ll find out soon.
     
    Last edited: Apr 2, 2025
    winduptoy likes this.
  20. Speedster
    Joined: Sep 4, 2006
    Posts: 108

    Speedster
    Member
    from Tacoma, WA

    I had a new windshield made and installed it yesterday. City Glass in Tacoma did a great job of duplicating off of my template, and at a reasonable price. I tried to save the original windshield for wall art, but the only thing holding it together was the windshield frame. IMG_1684.jpeg IMG_1701.jpeg IMG_1896.jpeg
     
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  21. Speedster
    Joined: Sep 4, 2006
    Posts: 108

    Speedster
    Member
    from Tacoma, WA

    I haven’t posted about this project for a while, but progress continues.
    I was able to find a really good bed and shortened it back to the forward stake pocket.
    The spare body I purchased a while back is much better than what what came on the car, so I recently removed the old body, pressure washed the chassis, and am now in the process of aligning the new body and bed.
    The rebuilt EAB with the Fenton heads I found at a yard sale looks and runs great.
     

    Attached Files:

  22. AmishMike
    Joined: Mar 27, 2014
    Posts: 1,385

    AmishMike
    Member

    Really looking forward to your first drive. Great rebuild/restore. I vote to keep “t” she’ll not a new 32. Go go go on redo.
     
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  23. Jack Rice
    Joined: Dec 2, 2020
    Posts: 327

    Jack Rice
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    anothercarguy and Outback like this.
  24. Fordors
    Joined: Sep 22, 2016
    Posts: 6,413

    Fordors
    Member

    Somehow I missed this project, interesting car, I'll be following along.
     
  25. jimpopper
    Joined: Feb 3, 2013
    Posts: 384

    jimpopper
    Member

    You are definitely walking the fine line of keeping the history and improving the safety. You are probably going to have to make changes that are impossible to hide. You have a very interesting once in a lifetime project.
     
    tractorguy and Speedster like this.
  26. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 19,944

    Tim
    Member
    from KCMO

  27. oliver westlund
    Joined: Dec 19, 2018
    Posts: 2,804

    oliver westlund
    Member

    I would run the t shell as well... kind of reminded me of this ol rpu Screenshot_20251012_223002_Gallery.jpg
     
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  28. Speedster
    Joined: Sep 4, 2006
    Posts: 108

    Speedster
    Member
    from Tacoma, WA

    IMG_3047.jpeg
    Here’s a picture of the car as found. Quite similar. .
     
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  29. Speedster
    Joined: Sep 4, 2006
    Posts: 108

    Speedster
    Member
    from Tacoma, WA

    IMG_3061.jpeg IMG_3062.jpeg IMG_3063.jpeg IMG_3064.jpeg A little EAB dress up for the McKindley hot rod project. I recently purchased a set of chrome snap on head bolt/nut covers, but didn’t like the idea of fake caps on the engine. So, after some research and a fair amount of lathe time, I came up with a solution. 7/16-20 chrome bullet lug nuts modified as shown. The real problem is that they have a 3/4” hex and I had to machine a thin wall socket to fit the nut and still have clearance between the fins of my Fenton heads. A standard 12 point socket split, so I machined another from a 6 point impact socket and it worked fine. The look isn’t exactly what I wanted, but feel it’s better than having the snap on covers.
     
    Tim likes this.

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