Technical ***March 2025 Banger Meet Thread - In Like A Lion, Out Like A Lamb***

Is anyonse running a hardline from a B fuel pump to dual downdraft carbs? I am looking for options. The header cooks my rubber line. Good thing I checked it before I did the Spring start up because it was hard as a rock and was cracked on both ends. I suppose header wrap is also an option?

 

A few inches away and it still got cooked? That sounds odd to me.

 

Jim, I do. It's a copper coated steel line so I dont have any of the loops for vibration. Been there a couple of years now with no issues. If you notice there is no line from the sediment bowl to the pump. I replaced that hose with a steel line that follows the body down to the frame where I have a flow thru electric pump that I use for priming. That pump uses rubber hoses on each end to absorb whatever movement I have between body an engine. Its tucked in along the frame rail so no issues with heat from the header.

 

I am saying over the course of the summer. All I know is it is cracked and hard as a rock. Probably get more heat when I park it and no air is moving then it does driving.

 

That is what I was considering. Good to know it isi good with vibrations. I was considering putting in a few coils if I could get them to fit and look right (like you stole it off a still). Is that a compression fitting where it comes out of the fuel pump?

 

With out looking I believe they are compression fittings.

 

I'm looking for ideas to stop oil starvation in right hand bends on a Burtz engine.
Modified stock pump, seems like it needs some sort of baffles in the pan, any pics of what has worked for you would be much appreciated.
TIA.

 

Mine suffers from it. I did put a hinged baffle across the centre of the stock dip tray to little effect. I’m going to drop the sump and have have another go. Probably take the dipper tray out entirely and baffle around the pump. I’ve fitted a 100E pump to my latest engine which has a central oil pickup which works well.

 

my B starves on hard right hand turns - so it seems to be a trait that afflicts bangers in general.

 

Looking for a side drive magneto and possible the entire side drive mechanism for
the engine - anyone out there have one for sale? Thanks

 

I've got quite a few rough castings that will need to be machined. If any of you guys want one, give me a shout! I think $50 a pop seems fair. Here's a more-so completed one I'm working on finishing.

 

Random pics still gettin stuff done on this pile using torque tube on this one

 

I finally manage to build this one up.
1934 AA block with Burtz 5 bearing crank fitted via a girdle. Burtz rods, RaceTec pistons, Jim Brierley dual grind cam, Roof 101 head, Rotoshim oil pump and cam gears, bespoke Firth Speedshop supercharger, Stromberg 81 carbs, Burtz flywheel and Yapp pan and front cover.

 

That one has everything, and then a little more!

 

I'd sure like to see the girdle/crank assembly
and of course some hp numbers

John

 

here you go John.



Don’t have any hp numbers yet. Hopefully in the next couple of weeks I’ll get it on a mates engine dyno.

 

That is a nice setup, I wasn't sure how the Burtz crank rear main looked the bearing is shorter.

I have had people asking about using with a girdle.

Keep up the great work, J

Here are a couple I have done in the past and currently run.

 

Very nice John.
I made a bolt on seal housing for the rear.


I also made all 5 bearings oiling from outside.

 

Very nicely built
I had thought to maybe cut the crank down for a 2pc chevy seal and thrust off the center.

John

 

Volvo gearbox I gather, looking good! M40?

@nutrocker that looks great! What's it destined for?

 

I too thought about using the centre for thrust, but easier to machine on the ends.
Pete

 

Here is what Milodon used to do to his oil pans

 

This is what I did

 

Beat me to the Milodon article. I remembered it but couldn’t find it.
Lots of good info in it.
Anyone have corrections that need to be made.?

 

So here’s my centre baffle - not very successful as it really needs sealing to the bottom and fore/aft trapdoors.



More successful was the 100E oil pump. Repurposed the original pickup pipe which ended up with a few kinks in it...

 

Haven't posted in some time, life etc. Starting to turn tools again though, have pulled the roadster down to start fitting the necessary things for registration down here. It's had a hard time after the last two Red Dust Revivals.



I also took the day to go pick this old welder up today, as I'd been looking for an engine to build and this came up. Visually I know it's a B, and has a C head, I'm assuming it's from a BB by the bell housing. Turns over by hand with good compression, does seem to be well looked after. What are my chances it's a counterweighted crank?



A few closer shots...








Doesn't appear to be a diamond, not even sure we had them down here though, shot of the Magneto setup below



Any insight appreciated

 

Pull the cover off the fuel pump hole and see what you have for a crank if your curiosity is killing you.

I think I'd pull the lifter cover (because it's easy) and if it's not completely buried in sludge put it back on and see about getting it running.

 

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Thanks for input guys, some good ideas to think about there.

Meanwhile today I was clearing a bit of bench space when I spotted an old pump and a forgotten small stainless steel bowl laying together beckoning to me, unbelievably they fit perfectly together!

Hmmm.. thinks...if I weld the bowl to the pump shroud on my re-con pump, then cut the bottom of it off, it will extend the shroud down. The bowl being wider than the shroud it won't restrict the flow around the bottom of the pump where the gauze is showing, which would happen if I just welded two shrouds together.

So I fired up the CAD equipment and prototyped an oil pan extension, my idea being that the pump will work as normal, but the oil being deeper around the pump it would take way more centrifugal force to move the oil away far enough to allow air to get sucked in under the extended shroud.

I might have made the pan extension a bit too deep, and I've got a feeling I'm missing summat, it can't be that simple, your thoughts would be appreciated.



In England we are blessed with roundabouts everywhere and we have a large badly designed fast multi lane one that has to be negotiated almost every time we leave home. They've been messing about with the layout for years and it's still scary enough that many timorous types avoid using it altogether and make a big detour.
It has three 4 lane roads and two 2 lane roads connected to it, very spirited driving is called for, and as our roundabouts go clockwise every one is a RH bend!
Last thing I need is to be stressing about oil pressure!

 

So, I gotta ask the hive mind.... compression fittings are satisfactory for fuel lines? I see everything from "yes" to "you'll burn your car down to the ground the first time you take it out if you don't use double flares."

 

Why risk it?