Hot Rods Wishbone and axle spring perch holes

they can be bushed, right?

 

explain

 

I have a 36 axle that was dropped by mordrop in California, I'm using 36 split wishbone from a different car.
I cut off the spring mounts in front of the axle on the wishbone. I'm using what I think are pete and jakes spring perches that put the spring over the axle.
That's where my slop is, where the spring perch goes through the wishbone and axle, can the holes be bushed or do I torque the piss out of the nut at the bottom of the spring perch

 

Until I can get a better pic



The opposite end of the wishbone will travel up and down several inches without any effect on the axel caster

 

[QUOTE="silent rick, post: 15538700, member: 1022"

The opposite end of the wishbone will travel up and down several inches without any effect on the axel caster[/QUOTE]

???????

 

32-36 axles have a 2” boss. A’s and 37-48 have a 2-1/4” boss. It looks like you have a 37-40 wishbone. That would give you a quarter inch to take up with a small bushing or thick washer. Would that solve your problem?

 

???????[/QUOTE]
X 2

 

nope, it's a 2 inch axle with 2 inch bones.

at most, I can slide a couple of those shims that come with kingpin kits.

I'll get a better pic from the front tomorrow

 

Is the slop in the bores of the bones and axle or what Alchemy was referring to in post 6?
If the holes in the axle are wallowed out it should be possible to bore and sleeve them back to size.

 

the slop appears to be in the bores of both the bones and axle

 

Rick, you are using the tapered nut on perch ?

 

I sacrificed a pair of lower shock mounts to make these extra heavy duty tapered washers to sit in the wishbone

 

here's a shot of a chassis engineering axle with 2-1/4 inch boss with 36 bones that were machined to fit the wider axle, everything fit super nice.
you can see that I don't even have the nut ran up tight, you can see the washers i made.
second pic shows the end of the wishbone suspended in air, no need to tie it up, there's no play.

I just had to have the mordrop, if I can't bush the holes, I'll go back to the chassis engineering axle

 

Ars the flanges on your lower shock mount pieces bottoming out before the taper is fully seated?
Are the perch pins new or used? If used they could be worn.
Have you taken a perch pin and put it through the bare axle and wiggled it to check for side play?

 

The holes can be drilled out and bushed.

The holes in the wishbone are usually bigger than 11/16" and rely on the taper on perch bolt and bottom nut to locate it.

Original Ford tapered nuts are better than the usual repop nuts.

You can also build up the inside of the hole about 1/2" down, ream back to 11/16" from the bottom, build up the bottom of the hole about 1/2" up, and ream back to 11/16" from the top. Tig weld works better as it isn't hard like mig weld.

You may also find the top of the axle is worn from the wishbone being loose and need to be built up too.

 

perches are new, everything was tight using the new CE axle, i didn't think to check when i switched over to the mordrop axle and different bones.
I have to pull it apart no matter what route I decide to take, hopefully I can bush the holes and make the mordrop set up as tight as the CE was

 

Do you have a stock perch to try, to me it looks like the perch is sitting pretty low in the wishbone. I wonder if the tapered area has been messed with.

Mine with ‘35/‘36 axle, modified ‘35/‘36 wishbone and a modified AA perch.

 

I've never worked with a later wishbone, but this photo looks like this split one is installed upside down. Does the wishbone control caster?

 

Rick, is the 60* taper still on the top and bottom of the wishbone end? I’m wondering about the need for the tapered washers you made for the bottom of the wishbone.
It looks as if the taper has been removed from the w/b end making the perch sit too low, or was the taper removed from the shank of the perch? The washer you have at the bottom shouldn’t be necessary, but I think you may be using that because the nuts appear to be ny-locks instead of the Ford style castle nuts with the 60* angle to seat in the w/b end.
In the past I’ve mentioned here about the need to reduce the thickness and re-machine the 60* angle at top of those spring in front w/b ends to use the early spring perches.

 

As Xcpe said, verify your handmade bevel bushings are seating in the bevel, not on their flat rims.

 

They are '35-'36 'bones. Yes, wishbones control caster.

 

as you can see from the photo 1oldtimer posted, I made my washers from a similar lower shock mount. as does his, mine rely on the taper part to contact the wishbone's taper and in no way does the flat rim come in contact with the wishbone.
that's why I asked if I can get by with torqueing the nut and rely on the taper of the spring perch on top and the taper of my washer on the bottom to bring everything tightly together.

 

Had a similar problem just last week. I took an adjustable reamer and corrected the bores in the axle and made the springperches a tight fit by welding and turning to size. The tapers of perches were corrected as well. The perches sit without any play in the axle, the tapers are concentric to the thicker shafts and once the nuts are tightened the whole assembly is dead solid.