set up for a off the shelf rotor - -be it the 70-77 gm version- -or a mustang 2 stub for the 75 granada rotor to take a modern twin pot caliper with double eys each side you know just the one piece no seperate sweat on spaer no seperate dropped arm no seperate caliper adaptor fo if you added up the parts in total 200 spindles 50 spacers 200 steering arms 150 caliper adaptors must have double eyes for rhd and lhd stiffen the steering arm to the spindle with teh caliper carrier material to boot like that gnrs winner gives you the option of running a handed pair of vented and slotted rotors than and ford 4.5 drop them 2'' over stock for make 1/2'' dropped tie rod ends
Sounds like a great plan. Why don't you start building them? Might want to do a little market research to determine how many you might sell, and at what price they may sell at. Then you can do the designing, do the required machining, do the sourcing of the special critical pieces, do the testing, and test fit your designed produce on several examples of the body design you expect to sell your product for. Then all you need to do is find a government official to sign off that the finished product will be safe for on the road use. Once the production process is declared, set up, and make sure it functions correctly is completed and can actually make a product that looks and functions like the one you designed, you can establish the selling price, set up a distribution process, do some advertising, and wait for the sales orders to come in. Then all you have to do is deal with the customers and payment processes. How soon do you plan to be selling your new parts?
yes, I know what you mean, It would be better to start with a later model rotor like that of the 1999 -2010 ford ranger or 2wd explorer combined hub and rotor 4.5'' and use its twin pot caliper as it has the tone ring pressed on already and an aperture for a speed sensoruse the stock dust guard plus tyou cpould simply borrow long term the spindle part as it appears peressed in Front Right Steering Knuckle for FORD EXPLORER RANGER 1998-2009 ZZP/FR/023A | eBay run the stock twin pot caliper - -combined carrier the forging would be quite flat then if the spindle is pressed in use all the stock parts back plate caliper rotor bearings then if you ran a rear axle with the same brakes, you could use the master and it be all the same - -you know 2000 up ranger 8.8 literally set it up on a so-cal 48'' wide axle with the 36.5'' perch - -the drop of the steering arms for using a stock 35/6 wishbone - -just 2'' from stock dial it all in for a 112 inch wheel base with the stock track you could literally sell them for the price of a pair of spindles a pair of stereing arms a pair of brake caliper hangers the bearing adaptor at least 500 us dollars a pair Brake Discs + Brake Pads Front For FORD EXPLORER 1995 - 2001 2WD | eBay might help in the longer term, when for example you run abs or the 10 speed automatic transmission needs a speed signal from the wheels you may not need to run older transmissions , just a though the likes of that big brake company could then do a kit for the ranger/explorer carrier. it would be great.
step 1 down load fusion 360 step 2 Mustang II RH Spindle | 3D CAD Model Library | GrabCAD join grab cad step 3 upload muastang 2 spindle into fusion 360 open stang 2 spindle in fusion 360
yes, so if indeed people are taking mustang 2 ifs off of if you like 33 34 fords 35-40's in favor of a trad dropped axle, shirley, there are people here on this board with talent in the cad could do it and 3d print one or a pair 2000 FORD EXPLORER 4.0L V6 OHV Rotor | RockAuto rwd rotor under ten bucks 2000 FORD EXPLORER 4.0L V6 OHV Caliper | RockAuto caliper 35 bucks 2000 FORD EXPLORER 4.0L V6 OHV Brake Pad | RockAuto pads 6 bucks 2000 FORD EXPLORER 4.0L V6 OHV ABS Wheel Speed Sensor | RockAuto you know when you need the speed sensor to change up the auto trans 2000 FORD EXPLORER 4.0L V6 OHV Knuckle | RockAuto 2wd knuckle50 37-40 ford spindle steering arm dropped 2'' from stock double eyes both sides stub axle ranger / explorer 2wd 1998-2010 tone ring - speed sensor 11.30 rotor twin piston caliper stock dust sheild everyone doing a straight axle race car would want them would be the go to disc brake for anyone not wanting oem drums go as far to use the longer later king pins
If we're talking small-run technology a modular approach makes sense. That's the opposite of an everything-built-in approach. It also allows different variants of each module, including ones by third party manufacturers. If a hot rod aftermarket industry is to survive it'll have to embrace that open-ended mindset. A lot of manufacturers are using bolt-on spindles these days. As much as I despise that sealed-unit, non-repairable engineering philosophy it has its uses. There is an intermediate technology, however: bolt-on spindles which take separate bearings and hubs. There are many options among rear spindles on fwd cars, but the most useful for the present purpose must be the AMC bolt-on front spindle. They are being reproduced, having found a following in some forms of motorsport. They even share a bearing spec (Timken SET2/SET6) with a huge number of other cars, making all kinds of hubs viable. Forging is extremely capital-intensive. I'm not sure what additive manufacturing technologies have been coming close to matching forgings for strength, and I'm not sure what kind of surface finishes they allow.
where is the picture of the 36 ford gnrs winners front spindle? even though its was push pull and not cross steering i think that was milled 5 axis ? anyways, when IF there are at least TEN reason why, then it might be worth considering 1. run the 6'' longer king pin 2. already drop the steering arms 2'' over stock 37-40 3. speed sensors / tone rings, that can be read by the my2000 year ford eec-V stock ecu's - -olpening up the use of canbus controlled ecu's and the like of later motors 4. tone rings - vss's for the use of abs 5. dual piston calipers with a larger but skinnier friction surface, with maybe differing sized pistrons to aid the shudder or flutter of brake actuation 6. delete the use of bearing spacers/ adaptors 7. delete the bolt on caliper carrier. - -it still uses a carrier 8. stiffenn the steering arm with the lugs for the caliper carrier. 9. short hat combined rotor 11.30'' allows adding space to attain geometry perfection (if that is your bag) 10, you could make the steering arms shorter - -if you wanted to , if you were pas or elastic, = smaller steering wheels 11. press in stub axle already exists - -someone in the world makes them. 12. its a one stop shop 13. off the peg dust sheilds 14. the calipers were always intended for that rotor. 15. 4.5'' pcd ford, with 1/2'' unf studs. you jump from 1978 to 2000. can you do the cad cam? how many people on here can do it?
The Corvette/Mustang style bolt on hub has a lot of advantages. CPP has developed a line of front spindles that incorporate that style of hub. It wouldn't be a big stretch to tweak that concept to fit a Ford axle. https://inthegaragemedia.com/ctp-aug-cpp-corvette-mii-spindle/
@nobby I am so happy that this wasn't a "I want this exact special part" post, but instead a well thought out discussion starter with the parameters laid out. Of course most special parts are narrow in focus and as soon as you set the exact features in stone, someone wants a change for this or that. Add to that the issue with manufacturing something that is traditionally a forged part so any change to that very expensive and specialized process is going to garner concerns, especially with the wide variety of weight and forces in use (cruising highboy to single digit drag times to fat fender rough road carver). I applaud you for choosing much more recent parts as a basis. Service life being measured in decades on many rods, you want stuff that will still be available in 2035. I'd dig deeper and try to find that unicorn, a standard of center register size, hub to rotor offset and a few different diameters so the end user could choose from 15 inch wheels (small rotor and caliper - lightweight) to 14 inch rotors (big wheels, heavy use). Unfortunately that spoils caliper pin location, unless there are small and large calipers that all have the same radial caliper spacing like motorcycles are moving toward. https://ridermagazine.com/2019/04/02/tech-qa-radial-vs-axial-brakes/
i think what i mean is the 2000 up ranger explorer 2wd knuckle has a pressed in spindle - -stub axle press that out - -5 axis machine a 1.5 inch thick steel flat stock part with the king pin nubs and the bouble eye dropped steering arms on the caliper side where it says 'R' the discs are 11.30 ''i bet they would go in a 15 inch steel wheel 4.5'' ford. tone rings etc etc 7 bucks each lots of friction material the stock caliper carrier = =l one stop shop double eys rhd steering arms have a bit of web strength added to lower caliper mount hole just a thought stock dust guards you cannot seem to get though. machine it flat press in the stub axle no extra bolt on steering arms - already drop them and beef them up no sweat on bearing adaptor all that and a tone ring vss plus the hat or hub is really quite shallow so you can add to dial in geometeryer run a 6'' king pin i would pay 500 bucks for a pair
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