I purchased a 1938-9 Ford frame for my 1935 Ford pu project. I've heard that the pu's and convertibles had a 1-gauge thicker frame than the cars. Turns out after running the numbers, this frame is from a 60 hp car. I plan on boxing the frame. I haven't settled on a engine yet but have a choice from stock to 400hp 351c Ford. Anyone know of any weak points to using this frame after being boxed ?
Be sure to check out the areas near where the frame curves up to go over the rear axle. The x member attaches in that area and seems to be a natural rust prone section as dust and stuff that holds moisture seems to pile up there leading to rust.
No such thing as a 36 hp Ford from that era. But that’s beside the point. Your frame is already double walled, the whole length. See the middle section is just in an X configuration . If it’s not rusty, it should be plenty strong. That is, until you hack something out of it. If you need to modify the center of the X for transmission clearance, make sure to restore full strength with the top and bottom type plates that Chassis Engineering made. HAMBer 40ragtop makes a similar type too.
Actually the only difference between the 85 horse and 60 horse chassis is the weird little extensions for the front motor mounts. Drill out the three rivets per side and you have a regular frame.
alchemy is correct. There is no need to box the frame. It's already double wall. This is a common rust out spot in the 35-40 Frames. This is the outside rail after being dissected from the inner rails. The inner section also needs repair. Hand making the repair sections is not so easy. You also need to make sure there is no movement while doing the repairs. Reason being they have to fit back together when each is done. That would be why some kind of jig is necessary to do a quality job so the body fits to the frame as it did on day one. Not my first time at the dance for this job but I will say it's my last time. This job is a S.O.B!!
Get out a couple screwdrivers and an air hose and start digging and blowing. See what you have first. If it's anything like most Frames in the Northwest (or anywhere else) it will be packed tight with junk if not rotted clear through. Personally, I take the time to set up the frames on my table and make all the stations and supports using the Wescott's blueprint, now I know the frame isn't hiding any problems and is correct. Then remove the outside rails from the inner, next sandblasting if you must so everything comes clean. All my repairs are done with each part fastened back on the Jig. That seems to keep things from walking around while welding and believe me they will change shape considerably while welding if not locked in place.
Yes, make sure you have the curvy pieces tightly clamped to the jig before welding any patches. If you don’t, I think you will be cutting things apart again when you try to fit them back together. Usta be a guy on the HAMB who bought some repro 34 rails and laid them loose on his table, then boxed them. Separately. No jigging, measuring, Xing them together, or even installing any crossmembers. Never heard another peep about that project since. Probably too embarrassed to admit he wasted a thousand dollars worth of parts, and untold hours of his time.
Got my frame jig from a guy who used to build 35-40 frames. He cut out the pieces and welded them using the jig. I've seen three frames come from the jig and all have been spot on.
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