They make some shims/ wedges for adjusting your pinion angle if the blocks have changed it enough to cause issue. Very easy to find. Also curious of when it does this, my first thought was the new axle placement could have caused the yoke on the trans end all the way to bottoming? Just thoughts. Car looks great.
I think it has the stock 49 rear end. I think this driveshaft sticking into the transmission too far is a good idea. It just acted like there was a rubber band under their winding up wanting the bust if you put too many revs on it. They probably had to shorten that driveshaft to install that 350 trans and they never thought about maybe needed more clearance in the future.
I have my new skirts painted. Gonna change the tires and put on my new hubcaps. I’m wanting to show those off, No pictures yet so that’ll be in another post.
Good thought on checking the yoke into the transmission. It may have been right on the edge of being too long before you lowered it and then bottomed it out with lowering it. I had one do that in a 52 Chevy and blew up my transmission before I noticed it.
Yeah even settling springs could do it. Would be easy enough to check when the car is up getting wheels and tires swapped around
Disconnect drive shaft from differential. See how far it can be moved into transmission. See where old seal mark is on the yoke, compared to where seal now rides yoke. Etc.
Finally an update; my son helped me get the car jacked up, took out the driveshaft and found the problem. The angle was extremely messed up. I bought wedges, but I’m thinking now those 2 inch blocks might have had some angle built into them and this is backwards. The yolk was hitting the driveshaft at the transmission. You can see where it hit
Cut out upholstery to glue to the new door panels. My tip for the day: check check double check again which side gets the glue and the direction of the pins. It’s easy to waste upholstery on something like this.
I bought some 5° wedges. I’ve gotta have help to put that driveshaft back in. I’m doing it the old-fashioned way crawling around on the ground.
Is there a trick to getting the interior door handles off? It looks like there is a little pin that needs to be driven out is there a special tool for this? I can come up with a small punch And a pry-bar or two I just wonder if there was an easier way.
Yeah I can do that. It looks like the previous owner stuck a thick washer behind there maybe to keep it from rattling just a hassle. I put in some new sound deadening material. Was going to put in at least the rear panels. I might not have the right clips, might just be a two man job.
IIRC, the pins may be tapered and will only come out one way. Or, that may have been some other make of car. Anyway, check it out.
Put the drive shaft in the trans with it in neutral, then skoot down to the differential put the "U" joint caps on and rotate till they line up with the rear end side of the "U" joint, slip them in and bolt them down and you're done , a one man operation.
Is this the stock 1949 Ford rear end? I thought that would’ve been a Dana 44, which has the bolted cover on the back. This looks like an 8 inch Ford rear end to me. Opinions? facts? Also, I have to loosen those U bolts to install my wedges. Turns out that’s quite a chore with a regular combination wrench. What do they call those hex head air ratchets that would slide up onto that nut? It would take an extra deep socket to get onto that thing.
Leave an inch of threads and cut off the extra threaded length of the U-Bolts. Then you can use a standard deep socket.
The Jalopy Journal
