Fantastic progress so far, keep it going! Love to see all the work. Thanks for posting this up. BTW from that to this with just a little scrubbing? Wild.
Got the wishbones shortened. Now to finish the torque tube and driveshaft, then will be 34 radius rods kn the front and fix the steering issues.
Hopefully you plan on using a lot stronger material to align the TT pieces that what I see in the mockup. I would be using some 1/4" thick angle iron to keep things as rigid and aligned as possible. I would tack around the whole circumference and probably weld 1" beads - alternating back and forth from one side to the other. Welding loves to warp things - everything you can do to reduce the warping is a good thing!
I have several stock torque tubes in different lengths. Would cutting a stock one at the rear flange, then removing the section to make it the correct length and rewelding the rear flange be stronger and less welding?
Hell of a lot easier job that trying to graft a section in the middle and hope that you can somehow align the two ends. Given how a TT pivots in the front, my biggest concern is for the front roller bearing race area to be in correct alignment and centered with the driveshaft that runs inside of that roller bearing - the rest (generally - other than length, orientation of radius rod mounts, etc) isn't as much of a concern (it can be a bit off). Another situation is when using a solid style driveshaft (later era rears) - ones that use a bearing in the middle of the driveshaft - that makes all the alignment issues all the more difficult. You don't want the alignment between the front, bearing, middle bearing and pinion mount such that it is attempting to "bend" the driveshaft due to things not being well aligned.
Well all the work is done just needs cleaned up. I ended up using a different torque tube to keep the rear bearing,it was shortened at the rear. Got drive shaft cut and machined and all the other stuff done. I learned a lot about banjo rears on this project.
All the measurements worked out perfect and it fit great. I used some 3/8 angle when I welded the actual tube I ended up using.
When they built the quick change back in the day they flipped the housing ,I can drain out the rear of quick change. I know I should have drilled a new drain plug and I might still .
It’s been a lot of work but well worth it! Make one brake line and bleed the brakes and rear axle swap is done! I couldn’t be happier with how it turned out!
Thanks for sharing, great story and car, what a treasure. Here is a New Zealand quick change made I think in the 50's for a midget or sprint car. I am hoping to use this in my roadster eventually but am going with a standard banjo to start with.
Thanks! I have learned a ton about these cars already and have gained a lot from reading stuff on here.
Got the rear all done so now on to the front. Just basic upgrade, 34 rods and lower frame brackets and new rod ends. The rods it had were super short. The front axle and related parts are in great shape with no wear ! I can’t believe it all came right apart!
Yeah replacing the radius rods with longer ones from a 34. Hopefully help it drive better ,the ones on it are really short and car is a little darty sometimes.
Got front all mocked up . I got the caster where it needs to be now and wheelbase. Pitman arm will need some love,I made a template to check body clearance. It’s close might need some tweaking.
The wishbone shouldn’t have a bow in the middle of it. Looks like the right side needs some straightening.
They were beat up , straightened the best I could cold without cutting and welding. They’ll be fine for and old ratty roadster, it looks worse than it is. Bottom and sides are pretty straight with a straight edge .
Absolutely awesome score. First set of pics with the as found whitewash are my favourite. Enjoy the hell out of it. Thanks for sharing. Bob in Scotland
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