For 1934 Ford Coupe Can someone please school me in the correct way to mount the tie rod end of a split front bones inward from the outer surface of the chassis rail? Closer to the center. Besides caster and oil pan clearance etc what if anything else do I need to consider? If someone has done that can you send through some pics? Thanks
Since we have to guess on the make and year of car, you can try this setup for a 35-40 Ford. https://chassisengineeringinc.com/product/as-2085-wishbone-splitting-kit-for-1935-1940-ford/
When I built my '32 pickup I split the rails and moved them out to the side of the frame rails, I used a set of aftermarket spring perches, I installed bungs and tie rod ends then mounted them on the mounts I made to attach to the frame. HRP
35 to 40 Chassis you can use the Chassis engineering kit and attach the bones and make the frame stronger at the same time. HRP
I assume it's for the '34 in your avatar. Here's how I did my '27 roadster. 3/16" steel plate mounted to the outside frame rail. First I determined the proper amount of caster needed, then placed and marked the plate. The tie rod ends have a 7* taper so I ordered two of these from Speedway. They'll accomodate the 7* taper. https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Roun...NdlyNCCgrp81wOyl2jOHy-T23DyF1JA362QPV_HtUjjdl Next I drilled big holes and set the shock mount buttons inside and welded them in. Tacked the mounts and double checked all my alignments and clearances. Finally, finish welded and I also welded gussets on the opposite side for strength. Couple of thousand miles so far with no issues.
On my 34 pick up I mounted them in, because of fender and running board clearance. But not to far in so the exhaust could go through. There is no specific science for them. On my fender less Model A I mounted them on the outside of the frame, then just make sure you have tire clearance for a sharp turn.
That Chassis engineering INC (not .com) unit keeps the bones at close to the original triangle form. I couldn't find any instructions sheets though. Way back in the dark ages when that setup from Chassis engineering inc showed up in a magazine article the stated theory was and still is that it comes as close to duplicating the motion of the stock wish bones as far as allowing the axle to move up and down as you go down uneven roads = my driveway. Working a bit more like the original setup when you transvers uneven ground like a rather angled driveway entrance. I'd say most guys who run split bones don't much worry about as they seldom drive anywhere where the surface they are driving on is going to cause the split bones to cause a bind.
Cheers Fellas have updated my initial post re it being for my 34 coupe. Have seen plenty ways to mount them on the exterior of the chassis, was thinking more along the lines of what @Mr48chev and @HOTRODPRIMER posted - thanks!
We make these bolt on wishbone frame mounts that can be bolted to the X-member. These are also available with the bungs and tie rod ends.
@Weedburner 40 , is there a taper in that hole for the tie rod pin? Looks like a easy way to get the bones mounted.
Algoma56, yes, the tab is tapered for the Early Ford tierod end. The taper is from both sides so that the tierod ing can come in from either side.
Well, it works on a Model A, with a SBC and a F-1 trans crossmember, and later bones (42-48)…as long as you use a narrowish transmission.
Mine, inverted, courtesy of Ionia Hot Rod Shop. Works great. Only downside is that the mounting plate between the crossmember and the chassis rail makes access to the brake and clutch master cylinders somewhat difficult. Chris
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