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9s for $9k

Discussion in 'Off Topic Hot Rods & Customs' started by squirrel, Mar 18, 2025.

  1. Sharpone
    Joined: Jul 25, 2022
    Posts: 1,858

    Sharpone
    Member

    :eek::D
     
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  2. snoc653
    Joined: Dec 25, 2023
    Posts: 798

    snoc653
    Member
    from Iowa

    If you want people to underestimate your car’s potential, undersell it without a lot of visible go fast parts and without the appearance that no expense was spared to go fast. The ugly ducklings are generally under estimated. Sounds like a solid plan and should definitely get you a go at the duct tape drags.
     
  3. The fan would be useless, but I first thought of thr dodge pickups that have a small radiator on one side and the a/c condenser next to it instead of front to back. Or radiator in front of the grill. Or remote mount radiator?
     
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  4. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 58,493

    squirrel
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    I'm just going to put a big radiator in front of the fan, it doesn't bother me.

    Started looking at the wiring harness. I'll take out the old EFI wires, because I like doing that kind of stuff.

    wiring01.jpg
     
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  5. Those are so much lighter than I would have figured.
     
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  6. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 58,493

    squirrel
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    yeah, it's surprising, there's not much to them. A little tin can.
     
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  7. RodStRace
    Joined: Dec 7, 2007
    Posts: 6,726

    RodStRace
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    One thing I'll mention, take a look at the seat risers. They are some 'fit the solution' engineering. Make sure they aren't cracked or rusty.
     
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  8. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 58,493

    squirrel
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    They're solid. I think the only body/structural problem found so far is the driver door upper hinge broke off and got welded back on.
     
  9. gene-koning
    Joined: Oct 28, 2016
    Posts: 4,953

    gene-koning
    Member

    I would just move the radiator out to in front of the grill, then extend the bumper outward, think like an old continental spare tire look, on the front bumper, just around the radiator.
    That would have to be worth extra points.
     
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  10. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 58,493

    squirrel
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    I've had lots of ideas like that, it's a puzzle with lots of parts that can be assembled many different ways.

    Got the turbo in the mail today...the exhaust manifold will probably get here at the end of the week.
     
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  11. Have you considered recessing the firewall? It would help to get the engine a lot lower and give more room for various gadgets.

    But we're talking advanced butchery .. :eek:
     
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  12. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 58,493

    squirrel
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    Oh, the though entered and immediately left my mind.

    The main reason is that I want to run a 5 point roll bar, not a cage. And if you modify the firewall, and run tens, you have to install the front part of a cage.
     
  13. drptop70ss
    Joined: May 31, 2010
    Posts: 1,219

    drptop70ss
    Member
    from NY

    Sounds like fun, I put this one together for way under $9k, no idea what it will run though. Just turned it up to 8 pounds before winter, have to get it out and test before bumping it up more. I don't bother with the factory harnesses anymore, its much cleaner IMO to go through an Ebay harness and make some changes to make it right. 200k mile 4.8, mild cam, decaps, and a VS 7875....and yes when the loud valve opens the exhaust goes out the passenger fender port holes LOL 551.jpg
     
    Last edited: Apr 1, 2025 at 3:49 PM
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  14. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 58,493

    squirrel
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    did you use an electric cutout for that?

    Anyways...

    A few parts in the mail....

    turbo 02.jpg turbo 01.jpg
     
  15. gene-koning
    Joined: Oct 28, 2016
    Posts: 4,953

    gene-koning
    Member

    The pictures make it look like the front of the motor is real high in the chassis, is that because of the angle of the pictures, or is the front of the motor actually that high?
    Are your plans to run the motor as it now sits?
     
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  16. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 58,493

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    I need to get the motor set in proper position, I think it is a little nose high right now. But I have to get the exhaust figured out before I get too far with mounts. I bought a stock driver side manifold that won't fit, I'm searching now for something that will, or parts to make my own header.
     
  17. bill gruendeman
    Joined: Jun 18, 2019
    Posts: 928

    bill gruendeman
    Member

    When I did mine I found the driver side manifold for a Chevy Colorado with a 5.3 to be the tightest fitting to the motor, had to cut and angle the pipe to clear the th350. 5 or 6 years ago found it on line, nos oem for like 80$.
     
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  18. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 58,493

    squirrel
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    thanks, I'll look for that
     
  19. drptop70ss
    Joined: May 31, 2010
    Posts: 1,219

    drptop70ss
    Member
    from NY

    No, it is a boost activated valve, you can see it in this build picture. Exhaust goes out a full exhaust out the back of the car unless the loud valve opens up, then exhaust dumps directly out the fender ports. I am still playing with it, so far it did not open at 3 pounds, but will be testing at 8 pounds as soon as the weather improves. loud 2.jpg
     
  20. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 58,493

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    that looks like a slick setup, thanks

    Is the wideband sensor on the rear downpipe, controlling the mixture, etc? or just a gauge?
     
  21. AmishMike
    Joined: Mar 27, 2014
    Posts: 1,199

    AmishMike
    Member

    Drop Top70ss - could u explain what manifold intake in picture?
     
  22. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 58,493

    squirrel
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    That is the truck intake manifold, used on the 4.8, 5.3, 6.0 from 99-2013ish.
     
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  23. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 58,493

    squirrel
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    Looking at that picture, I started thinking about the MAT sensor, and how to mount one in my intake. I did a little research, and discovered that I could probably just use the sensor that was in the Jeep, it has the same connector on it. And since I made a block off for the EGR valve, I could drill and tap that to fit, instead of the normal method of grinding down a plastic one and gluing it in place in the purge solenoid hole (the big round thing on top of the intake). I don't like glue. So I got to work...I still need to make the retaining bracket, but it might work.

    mat installed.jpg mat installed2.jpg
     

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