Projects 1950's Tube Frame Sports Car

I scrapped the x member idea because I realized that if I did it I was committed to either running only the 39 tran and/or pulling the trans out the top side. I have a big Buick trans and a Packard trans I'd like to try. Both are quite a bit longer than the 39 Ford. I have the Offenhauser adapter bellhousings for them that make them work with a flathead.

Today I welded in the rear tube and bent a matching one that is 16" forward. It will sit roughly at the front edge of the seats. When I laid a straight edge across all 3 tubes they match.





Then I added a couple smaller diameter tubes that run on either side of the torque tube 16" in from side tubes. The combination of the bent crossmembers and the smaller diameter put the top of these tubes roughly near the bottom of the main framerail tubes as you can see with this piece of steel laying across them.





Next time I'll fit and weld in some tubes with will angle from these tubes up toward the outer edges of the bellhousing.

 

I was wondering why you were getting rid of the angle iron floor braces since they seemed functional and original to the build but now that I see what you're replacing them with I like your setup a lot more. Considering how well it matches the trans crossmember it looks like it was built with that tubing setup.

 

The original was functional but really sketchy as far as anything to fasten the seats to or for seat belt attachment points. In the end I guess I roughly duplicated the original design with structural tubes instead of angle iron. It added a little weight but I'm happy how it's turning out.

 

I've been curious how aligned the drivetrain is on this car. Before I weld the rear spring perch in I decided to check. The only way I could think to check it is to run a long straight edge over the car and drop plumb bobs. I'm shocked how close everything is to centerline! I was antipating having to shift the engine. I'm going to drop one more bob to the front of the crank to make sure the engine is straight, this is only important if I ran a different longer transmission. Otherwise with this combo I'm golden!

Long angle iron set on big tripods.





Front perch spring bolt



Center of diff



Center of torque ball- scribed some lines with dividers on the retainer.

 

Looks Great Buddy!

 

Finally had a chance to drop a 4th plumb bob to the water pump. Engine is really straight to the car centerline. I'm pretty amazed how close everything is.

 

Any closer to putting a body on this thing?

 

I'm still a ways off from a body but I'm getting close to having a driving chassis. Yesterday I got the tabs welded on the cross member and made the tubes that triangulate the tail section.

Tabs that mount outboard end of seatbelt and bolt the front end of the brace tubes.

Some of the welds will be ground off and redone.


Tubes were slotted and the tabs tacked in. The tubes are removable so the axle can come out the back. I don't want to have to slide it out the side like the old Kurtis chassis. They really stiffened up the tail.



I also tacked the inboard seatbelt tabs on. Made and idiot move and used one of my mill clamp studs rather than ready rod so I realized I need to knock one back off to get the stud out. I'll redo it with all thread next time I work on it.