I feel kind of stupid asking...but. I have a 1950 Chevy Styleline I am having trouble wiring up my ignition switch and push button start. Both switches are the stock 6 volt switches, was told they would be fine to use. I assume I can wire up the ignition switch like normal, run an ignition power lead off the keyed side of the switch to the hot side of the push button, and my solenoid energize wire off the momentary side of the push button. Correct me if I am wrong. Also looking for what wires go where on my stock ignition switch. There are three terminals. Have searched but no luck. Thanks guys, will make me feel better to get this done and know it is done right.
Warning: Ford guy butting in! You may have a keyed switch with an accessory position. Does the key turn both ways or click twice in one direction? Should be pretty straight forward to test the leads with a continuity tester on a multimeter (and if you're messing with the wiring, it's a reasonable investment of $20). Also, does the starter button have one lead or two? If it's only one, then it's wired to the starter relay, not the key switch. Best of luck, -Stefan
Its been awhile since I worked on that old of wiring. I think that your switch is a 3 position switch. If that is the case You should have 1terminal (probably the center) should have power coming in Either from hot side of button or directly from the starter.The other terminals Idont think it matters which except for key orientation should both be power out.1 is for accessory only and of course the other on will be your main switched power for everything. You may have to do a little checking with an ohmmeter to verify this but I am fairly sure this should get you going.p/s I dont remeber for sure but I think the starter button was hot all the time which tells me if thats the case that the ign switch fed off the button and not the otherway like you are thinking. Hope this will help
Okay, I just checked the factory service manual wiring diagram. First of all, what you heard about the stock ignition switch and start button being OK for 12V is true. In fact, they (theoretically) should perform better and last longer with 12V than with 6V. Looking at the wiring diagram backs up what Lexington says- one terminal of the ignition switch is power in, the other two are power out. On the factory diagram, it shows nothing connected to one of the power out terminals, and it is marked "aux" The diagram shows two wires fastened to the one power out terminal. One goes to the gas gauge. The other goes into the harness, where it goes to one side of the ammeter, which seems to be the point where it goes to several things, including the starter button. Hope that helps.
My '50 was wired with the button hot all the time, also, before I chopped the wiring out of it. I would suggest looking at rewiring the ammeter to work as a voltmeter, since when it's measuring amps that's putting a lot of current through your dash gauge. Also, GM ignition switches are pretty universal, if you want a switch with the accessory position you should be able to swap one in and put your lock cylinder in it. The only issue in a '50 might be if it clears the bottom dash rail.
Yes originally the starter button was hot all the time. The engine would turn over with just the starter button but not start... until you turned the key allowing juice to go to the coil.
In regards to the ammeter, they are perfectly fine if serviced properly. Many of our customers are using them without issue. For insurance you can add a fuse-able link. An ammeter will tell you much more about your charging system than a voltmeter and you won't have to hack into your gauge cluster.
one thing odd about those cars is there are two positions on the ignition switch that will allow you to start the car via the button. turn the key one way and you can remove the key but the switch will still be able to be moved and start the car, turn it the other way and the key ignition is locked in the off position. the thinking was that you could leave your car for service and take your keys with you. one thing I found while using original switches with 12 volts... be sure you have 12 volts going in and 12 volts coming out. my original push button had a short inside where it lost a couple volts which seemed to make it harder to start. it wouldn't start at all when I switched to pertronix. ended up getting a regular ignition switch without a push button
I was gonna mention that, but wasn't sure if the '50 was the same as the two '54s I had back in the days. I never even owned a key to either of those cars, just flip the switch on, mash the button and boogie. Sigh .... that was a different time, though. BTW ~ Here's a link to an online '50 Chevy owner's manual .... might help the OP out with this or that. http://www.oldcarbrochures.com/stat...et/1950_Chevrolet_Owners_Manual/dirindex.html
I did exactly what you want to do. I turn my key to the on position and start it with the pushbutton. Looking at my notes I have an ignition switch jumper going to one side of the button and an ignition start wire coming off the other side of the button. The jumper is coming off the IGN terminal on your key tumbler. There should be 4. The center one, then three around the edge: Batt, IGN, ACC. I actually took mine a step further and hooked in a small idiot light to turn on when the key is in the on psition, just so i dont leave it on anddrain my battery
When I converted my '49 to 12v negative, I rewired it with a two pole (insulated) button that was inline with the ignition switch. I had a silly habit of trying to start the engine without turning the key.
I have same questions it doesn't make sence , if you found the answer please let me know dig .email digdigmn@gmail.com
Hey all. I know, this is a very old thread, but I am lost. Need help with wiring on a friends 1949 Chevy 5 window. Foot starter, toggle switch ignition, and brand new American Autowire harness... please advise!
Thanks Tommy I recently purchased a 50 Chevy styleline 6v positive ground with points and I accidentally pushed the button and engine turns over but won't start until you turn the key to the right just like you said. I also tried to upgrade to pertronix to get rid of points. Had no problem with module took the 1 wire that came from back of ignition switch that went to the positive side of coil directions say take it off the coil and connect the black wire to it. Take black wire with white tracer and put it to negative side of coil. Run a wire from positive side of coil to ground. Did all that and motor turns over but won't start. Help
Hey ratfink I am trying to install a pertronix in my 50 Chevy 6v positive ground and did just like directions said turns over but won't start. I was thinking about that push button switch also. Maybe get wife to turn engine over while checking voltage across coil see if module is getting I guess at least 6v ? If not what switch did you get. Thanks
ONE MORE TIME. YOU! should have started a new post rather than sticking your question on a thread that has been dead since Nov 19, 2009.
To start with have you got a Chevy or a GMC? All Chevrolet AD trucks are NEGATIVE GROUND GMC 47/54 trucks are positive ground. 12 Volt trucks are negative ground. Still in my 78 years on earth and 63 of it actually understanding what I was doing on a car or truck the one thing I learned years ago is that you don't frigging go swapping parts until you actually figure out what the issue is, you test and figure it out. You have a truck with a very simple ignition system that won't start but you go and replace the ignition with an electronic setup that is hell for delicate in hope it it will start and run. It goes back to ground zero. 1. does the engine have sufficient compression to run? 2.When you turn the key on is there power to the coil? 3. Are/were the points gapped correctly so they actually open and close? That is with the rubbing block on the point arm exactly on the tip of one of the lobes of the distributor cam and the points gapped to .016? 4. Is the engine in time? With the rotor pointing to #1 on the cap and the points open ? 5. Is the firing order wired correctly? Side notes: The polarity of the coil ALWAYS MATCHES the ground of the battery. If the battery is positive ground the positive side of the coil goes to the distributor. Negative ground the negative side of the distributor if marked plus and minus goes to the distributor. There are no exceptions no matter what Bubba down at the spit and whittle club told you.
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