Featured Projects 28 CCPU build

Think I'm just gonna modify the bed to fit. Id rather have the suspension working the way the guys from classic st rod mfg designed it... But I appreciate the concern.

Also, I think I am good on running board brackets. Still not home so can't check for sure, but definitely will keep that in mind.

Thanks for all the kind words. Will see how far I get in the next 5 weeks and will send updates.
Gordy

 

Caster is NOT SET by the crossmember.

That angle is set to reduce spring bind.

 

Yes, to reduce spring bind because of the caster angle of the axle... Semantics, but still pretty much the same thing.

As I understand the choices are to live with spring bind, get a new crossmember, or get the adjustable perches.

 

Not semantics, but confusing misinformation.

I cannot count how many people who now think that you set the front axle caster at the crossmember.

That is very real, and VERY wrong.

 

Interesting, I haven't run across anyone who thought that.

 

If caster is not set at the crossmember, how do you set caster without putting the spring in a bind?

 

Caster is the kingpin angle, in relationship to the ground.

You adjust link bars, pie cut and weld up the wishbone, or bend the beam axle.

 

I'll be more careful next time I type up the next part of the build thread.

I set the caster by lengthening the heims on the lower bars of the front four bars and the crossmember allows the front spring to not be in a bind to achieve my 7 degrees of caster. And if the lengthening of the lower four bars wont technically make it a true four bar, then I guess this build will have ugly hairpins that look like four bars. lol

Gordy

 

You explained it just fine. We knew what you were talking about.

 

Not much to report. Finish welded the chassis minus the front shock mounts. Gonna use the roadster supply ones and weld a bung between them and then run them like the speedway zinc ones. Returning the speedway zinc ones cause theyre a 1/2" dia and I need a 7/16".

Not pictured, finish welded the exhaust pipes.

Next im gonna play with fitting the fenders and getting the tanks put on. I got these cool gas caps from my friend George at a local swap. I'm gonna try to fit them up into the aprons. Once I figure out the fenders and tanks, next step is chassis paint.

Anyone familiar with how the tankz saddle tanks work? They seem to have an extra hole on them, which I'm assuming is to run a pipe between the two? The directions I received are pretty terrible lol

Gordy

 

You should have this and a toggle switch to operate it. https://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/...duct_id=93/category_id=-1/mode=prod/prd93.htm



A guy I used to travel with long-distance to shows had them on his A Tudor he built into a tub. He hated them. All the rest of us would pull up to a pump, fill, and be done. He would need to fill on both sides and it was slow. He said he'd never use them again on another A. Just food for thought. They're a good idea in terms of space saving, but if you ever need to service them you need to pull the splash pans, meaning raise the body. Big job.

 

I took your lead and I have the same front crossmember waiting for my build. It looks way better than my stock piece too.

 

I like it. Good thread.

 

Dang, yeah the plan was to use the truck as a truck when I needed it. (Not that its a huge bed to begin with) So wanted to avoid putting a tank in the bed. Im super limited in room for the bed. I think I'll just run them for now and change them down the road if it I ever need to service them. Too late to return them and they were quite pricey haha

 

Yeah, they're not cheap. I've heard the odd guy rave about them, but if you like taking it on long trips you may not. You have them now, so might as well.

I am thinking I'll unfortunately end up with a tank in the bed but am not sure.

 

the tanks don't work you do...I have them on my woody,.. came that way...they put the fillers in the wheel wells so I don't alwaays have fuel on the running boards...getting gas is constant... with only 7 gallons.. doesn't take long to run through 5, then you have to switch over.. and head for the gas station... you fill the first one up to full and run the other side for a while, and again doesent take long to run through 5 gals... constant monitoring the fuel level..

 

Playing with body blocks and the bed. Think I either need to modify the blocks or modify the coil over mounts. Thinking I'll just mod the blocks though as that seems to be the easiest solution.



Also it appears my running board brackets are all the same? Is that how they were or are they different from right to left and front to back? The back pass side looks right, but the front pass side looks very off.

 

The two front running board brackets are longer, otherwise they are the same side to side if I remember correctly.

 

A friend of mine made a steel substructure to mount the bed to instead of the wood blocks. It was much more stout and secure, and looked better too.

 

My 29 has a twelve-gallon tank in the bed, works for me, accurate fuel gauge.

 

I also replaced the wood support with a steel tubing unit for the bed. I then built a 15 gallon tank that fits in it under the front of the bed with the filler neck between the bed and body on my 31 rpu.

 

On a subject to fuel tanks, my coupe had one of those rounded, Speedway, moon type tanks, probably less than 10 gallons with no fuel gauge . I could hardly drive anywhere without stopping for gas. I learned the hard way several times, I better for damn sure be stopping for gas anytime I saw a station. I replaced it with a 17 gallon tank (with a gauge) I put behind the seat. I don’t think the closed cab pick up has any room at all for something like that. I think you could probably put a decent size tank under the bed, behind the rear axle. I would put a cover on it, so it might look like some sort of rolled pan. If you’re running a V8, don’t cut yourself short on fuel capacity.

 

A stock cowl top Model A tank is only 10 gallons. A stock '32 tank is only 11 gallons. 5+5=10. Not much different in the end.

 

My old man has an oval factory tank in his 33 Dodge with a gauge. He found out quickly that 1/4 tank means full up now. The volume of the top 1/4 and bottom 1/4 is very much less than the middle.

 

10 gallons on a stock tank in 1928-1932 with a stock engine where you weren't going far or fast is a different story than today's driving with a hopped up engine.

 

Not arguing that, but the point was that running saddle tanks isn't really a hinderance to range any more than a stock Model A or '32 tank would be. There are a lot of hot rods running around that are powered by SBCs (or the like) with stock A and '32 tanks. The vast majority of the country is going to have a gas station within 100 miles of the next one.

 

I have three Stromberg’s and a heavy foot. I’m gonna use up some gasoline, fellas.

 

Who wants to stop every 100 miles on a road trip? The saddle tanks are only 13 gallons combined. Imo, the closest to 20 gallons you can get is ideal in a hot rod. In an A you might be lucky to get 16 or so.

If you're driving in a spirited manner, 10 gallons could get drank up fast.

 

I'm running the stock tank and fuel gauge on my Phaeton and definitely stop a decent amount. Havent done any crazy long road trips. I feel comfortable just getting more gas when it says 1/4 on my model a.

I guess the saddle tanks are 13 gallons so thats more than im used to... this truck will have a single 4bbl on it, where my phaeton has a single 2bbl (waiting to get my 3x2 intake fixed) lol

Not sure how much different fuel consumption is between a 4bbl and a 2bbl but I gotta think 4bbls drink more (assuming theyre both tuned correctly).

Gordy

 

If you like the sound of all 4 barrels wide open, it will drink more.